Originally posted by evet
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Restoration of a Bosch ZEV magneto
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Originally posted by BoschZEV View Post...I have all the text and images organized on my computer, but simply relinking/reloading all those photos would take a lot of time. I don't want to just move to a different photo hosting site since the same thing easily might happen again.
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I do not need to edit old posts, Folks!
(Normally I post what I mean and mean what I post. Even when I'm wrong.)
But I need to manage the 'manage attachments' feature.
Two bad clicks uploaded a customer's invoice instead of what I had intended, and I can't see how to kill it.
It never went to a forum post.
I wuz in a hurry.
And my mouse hand is crippled.
....CottenLast edited by T. Cotten; 07-23-2017, 10:31 AM.
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Hello BoschZEV & others who have this same issue.
If old posts cant be edited then I have considered another option. I could close the old thread to new posts and start a new one.
The way I do build threads is I write them offline in a text document adding the code for the photos as I go. Then when I am happy with it I copy it into a new reply. The photos have a similar name ending in a number so its easy to change the text for the next photo by just changing the number in the code for the hotlink
So I could start a new thread and post all of my build thread again but it would be missing all of the replies and discussion so if anyone in the future looking at my new thread would have to refer to the old thread to get the full context of the historical stuff.
Like I said above this is just an option, my preference would be to update the original thread.
John
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Originally posted by T. Cotten View PostI would certainly like to know how to insert the pics into the text in order, as well as edit old uploads.Originally posted by TechNoir View PostHello BoschZEV. I have exactly the same issue as yourself both on this forum and other forums. I have worked out where I am going to host my photos but I cant edit the links in old threads.
Beyond the issue of editing old posts, the software on which the AMCA Forum is built lacks anything like modern image-handling capabilities (it isn't unique in this respect). Unfortunately, the site functions today essentially like a wordprocessor of the 1980s before the WYSIWYG of WordPerfect came along, i.e. with the embedded formatting codes of WordStar. This shouldn't be acceptable.
In the last ten years everyone has had a camera with them all the time, resulting in gazillions of photographs, and fundamentally changing the way people communicate. Unfortunately, this site and others have no more functionality than a 30-year old wordprocessor, "upgraded" only in that thumbnails can be attached in a row to the end of a post. What is sorely needed is a site that works like a modern wordprocessor rather than like WordStar.
Our bikes have to be from the 20th Century to qualify for the AMCA, but that doesn't mean the Forum's software has to as well.
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Hello BoschZEV. I have exactly the same issue as yourself both on this forum and other forums. I have worked out where I am going to host my photos but I cant edit the links in old threads.
I have asked Admin a couple of times (in my thread here http://www.antiquemotorcycle.org/bbo...s-Alternatives) if there is any way I can edit the old posts but they have not responded.
I will be interested if you can get to the bottom of this one as I want to update my photo links too.
John
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Originally posted by BoschZEV View PostNot in the way that works for me. The posts that have large images embedded where they should be in relation to the text that refers to them are on third-party hosting sites, like Photobucket used to be. Thumbnails lined up much less usefully across the bottom are ones that were uploaded directly to the forum.
Sounds like you have a headache for the moderator,
....Cotten
PS: I would certainly like to know how to insert the pics into the text in order, as well as edit old uploads.Attached FilesLast edited by T. Cotten; 07-22-2017, 03:04 PM.
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Originally posted by T. Cotten View PostMerely uploading them directly to this forum in the first place works
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Photobucket's change in policy last month has left my magneto thread (http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbth...733#Post446733) without images. I had hoped they might reverse their policy, but when that didn't happen after a few weeks I started looking into other solutions. I have all the text and images organized on my computer, but simply relinking/reloading all those photos would take a lot of time. I don't want to just move to a different photo hosting site since the same thing easily might happen again.
Given the number of views it has received here and on the BritBike forum I can tell that people find this magneto information useful. However, I've been busy preparing my 1928 Ariel for next year's Cannonball so I haven't spent a great deal of time looking for a "permanent" solution to the problem of images. Once I do find a good solution I'll get the thread fleshed out with photographs again.Last edited by BoschZEV; 07-22-2017, 12:05 PM.
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The leads are soldered to the brass. I do have .028" or 21 gage solid varnished wire and will replace the stranded. Thanks again!
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Dan,
I can't tell from the photos if you soldered the capacitor leads to the brass shims. If not, you need to do that and not rely on just having the brass wrapped around them to make reliable electrical contact. Also, I recommend you use magnet wire (i.e. copper with a very thin coating of insulation) rather than your present wires. The armature spins pretty fast so the centripetal force on the wires will be large. The more massive the wires are (and they're pretty massive now), the more force they will experience. Magnet wire of 20 or 22 AWG is what I suggest (I use 20 AWG).
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Here's where I'm at. Joined the 2 caps in parallel with brass shim. One is formed into a foot to be soldered to the plate which is connected to the points mount screw. The other leg goes to the housing screw. I soldered two wires to come out of the potting to connect to the winding.20170318_111901.jpg5
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It makes sense. Plus I went back to the brit bike article and found a couple of pictures of how you did this in another end cap. Thank you again.
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