EL FL FLH Head Bolt Wrench

[41craig]

This tool may have been previously discussed. I've used this Snap-On wrench for over 25 years. I'ts made for auto door hinges, but works great on Knucklehead, Panhead and Shovelhead head bolts. It gets into the tight spots with ease and gives you great leverage. It does not matter if the motor is installed on the frame or sitting on your bench. Snap-On # 9/16 S 9619.
CraigCIMG0622.JPGCIMG0623.JPGCIMG0624.jpgCIMG0626.JPG

[govmule84]

How do you measure the torque on it?

[T. Cotten]

I hadn't seen it, Craig!

But I don't shop much.
Its quite desireable.

And Fat & Cranky!

Just use a big Allen socket for an adapter to the opposite box-end, at ninety degrees of course.

Only torsion torque wrenches for me.
(Except that Sunnen 'trick-elbow' contraption lost on the wall somewhere.)

....Cotten
PS: Note how my Buffalo torsion wrench's drive directly fits a 9/16" open-end to offer a 5/8" end for HD BT cylinder base nuts.
Dual up-and-down drives allow twice as many approaches to access when working in the chassis.

[govmule84]

I normally use a torque adapter. And like you, I only use beam torque wrenches, but to each his own...

[41craig]

I guess I'm old fashioned. I have never torqued a head bolt in my 64 years. And I've never had a head gasket blow. As long as this wrench is; I tighten the head bolt 'til it does not want to go any further without a lot of extra effort. And, of course, you always retighten after the motor has run a bit. I've used this on Knuckles, Pans and Shovels. No blown head gaskets.
Craig

[govmule84]

I guess I'm old fashioned. I have never torqued a head bolt in my 64 years. And I've never had a head gasket blow. As long as this wrench is; I tighten the head bolt 'til it does not want to go any further without a lot of extra effort. And, of course, you always retighten after the motor has run a bit. I've used this on Knuckles, Pans and Shovels. No blown head gaskets.
Craig

Well, there's a lot of ways to skin a cat, I guess. But I'm a fan of using a torque, especially when a value is supplied in the manual. Seen stripped threads in iron and pulled inserts on the later stuff.

A neat tool, though!

[T. Cotten]

Its all about technique, Folks!

Grunting by hand on the same short wrench in different positions, or beating on it, is folly.
Its about control, maybe not Standards&Measurements accurate, but at least reasonably even torque among the fasteners, as that's the crux of the biscuit.

Aside from all of the other endless observation and prep necessary, somehow there are always more worms in the can than there were a quarter of a century ago, and any shortcut will come back to bite you.

A better wrench is always welcome.

...Cotten

[41craig]

I'm sure that the reason that I never got into torque wrench use on these these old bikes is, that the manual for the bikes that my friends and I had did not have any torque numbers for anything. I do use the inch pound torque wrench for the oil pumps. I've had too many guys come in with lunched shovelhead motors (with the the aluminum oil pumps) that they tightened the nuts too much. Once the motor heated up and the metal expanded, the pump gears lock up and the weak point (the drive shaft key) shears and no oil pressure. Most of these guys had choppers with no oil pressure light.
Craig

[T. Cotten]

Forgive me if I second-guess you, Craig,...

But I really suspect the reason you don't swear by torque wrenches is because you never stress-plated and bore'n'honed cylinders for a living.

That's the most dramatic fastener-stress example I can think of, but I daily encounter manifolds that have suffered at a fraction of the torque.
It's similar to the pumps. Except, instead of leaking oil, they suck air.. and the motor *suffers*.

Metal moves.

....Cotten
PS: I swear by torsion wrenches, but swear at 'clickers'.
It upsets me the Sunnen makes that noise.

[Rubone]

The factory head bolt wrenches fit everywhere even with all components in place, and the late type 3/8 drive easily accepts a torque wrench if that is your preference.

[41craig]

Robbie; My problem was that years ago, St. Louis area Harley dealers would not sell head bolt wrenches or (any tools for that matter) to the public. With slow sales, their shop was where the majority of there income came from. So I had to go elsewhere to get the job done. I only started acquiring factory tools when I first encountered Hemming's Motor News in the early '80's and progressed to swap meets and later, Ebay. Joe Barber was also a great help.
Cotten; My boring bar, torque plates, and rigid & flex hones all have a thick layer of dust on them. I'm not sure if I'm too lazy, grumpy or what, but I found out that I have a lot less stress these days sending my bore & hone jobs out to a very qualified shop. Also, I'm aware of our friends that tighten too much and bend the flanges of the manifolds. I will still use torque wrenches on pumps, flywheel shafts & crank pins and cam covers. That's my story and I'm sticking with it! Seriously guys, Thanks for all the replies!!
Craig

[T. Cotten]

Folks,

If you have to re-torque machines often, such as an active shop, you need to do it fast, too.

The front cylinder base nut behind the timer on OHVs is 'difficult' for any commercial extention, without expensive disassembly and reassembly time.

You will want to make wrenches that are not so "collectible".

....Cotten

[Robert Witham]

Hey guys..u all have a wealth of experience beyond mine ...where can I buy a good 47 FL head bolt wrench and would want the final tightening with a toque wrench if possible.
Bobby

[govmule84]

Hey guys..u all have a wealth of experience beyond mine ...where can I buy a good 47 FL head bolt wrench and would want the final tightening with a toque wrench if possible.
Bobby

Nearly all of the tools you've seen here are, in my estimation, the best you could ask for. I did heads on my bike (same year and model as yours) in the frame and think I just used a torque adapter and my torque wrench, and a curvy double-ender at 90°.

If all else fails, torch a dollar-store wrench and make it fit! (I just did that on the base nut on a ULH; it was snug in there!)

[Robert Witham]

Nearly all of the tools you've seen here are, in my estimation, the best you could ask for. I did heads on my bike (same year and model as yours) in the frame and think I just used a torque adapter and my torque wrench, and a curvy double-ender at 90°.

If all else fails, torch a dollar-store wrench and make it fit! (I just did that on the base nut on a ULH; it was snug in there!)

Hey =govmule84;1833626,


Sorry still getting used to the site ...which tools are you refering to??
Bobby