Pony Riveting Tool

[chuckthebeatertruck]

That's some old pics and wasn't done with the rebuild with an old tool post.
Newer pics but still have to install the new feed half nut and screw bushingings in the compound. it's a 12".

I do quite a bit of restoration and custom work on my July 1946 10" Atlas -- which is substantially similar to the 12" craftsman you've got going on here (Atlas produced the craftsman models -- but contrary to popular belief, the 12" craftsman does not share as many parts with the 10" atlas as you'd think.)

Anyways, three tips:
1) Turn your compound 90 degrees to the bed and mount your post SQUARELY to the compound -- not at an angle as you have it in the photos. If you run the compound this way, you can EASILY take full 1/8 DOC cuts with HSS tools. If you try to use ceramic -- up your speed considerably and lower the feed rate. Otherwise, it's standard speed and feed. I turn a large amount of 4140 (annealed and PH) -- as well as 17-4 stainless; 1040; and T6 alloy. All love the baby atlas . . . but you've got to have it rigidly mounted and the bed nice and level.

2) Loosen your belt! You've got it taunt with the eccentric at the loose setting. You'll tear up your pulley and distort the jack shaft faster than you think.

3) Shim the motor coupler so it's not "hanging" as in the photos. It will bounce in use -- resulting in chatter. These are already very light lathes (very) and you want to eliminate sources of unwanted vibration as much as possible. I use blocks of semi-rigid carpet foam to help isolate the motor vibration.

Other wise, they are fun manual lathes. I can hold a solid .001 taper over 12" which really isn't bad for a 73 year old very light duty hobby lathe. The only draw back is that it takes me about 8 times longer to make parts on it than with a EE or Hardinge tool room (especially if cutting threads!).

Finally, the one thing you CAN do these lathes with impunity is tool post grinding. There's a dude in Niles, MI who sells a good kit for these lathes at circa $400 complete. Don't bother hunting the original Atlas TP grinder -- it's a huge heavy beast. With a more modern, lighter grinder you might be amazed at what you can do.

Oh, and I make my own brake shoe rivet set tools -- all 1040. I have different ones for the different shoes I work with -- but the header is the same across the board as I usually use 4/4 brass -- though sometimes I get real lazy and use copper/al pop rivets (Copper bodies; aluminum shanks). I still "set" the pops anyways just to make sure the rivet has drawn the lining tight enough to the shoe

[tfburke3]

I have the similar Craftsman baby table top model and it sure is handy.It looks almost identical but miniature.I need one of those link belts as mine looks like an old worn boot lace but you have take apart the whole thing to change it.
Wish I had the big one.
Tom

[T. Cotten]

I shall need flat belts for my South Bend, too, Folks!

Any sources would be appreciated.

(In the meantime, my '48 Logan is tortured mercilessly.)

....Cotten
PS: My Van Dorn valve grinder was given to me with a belt with buckle holes.

[ryan]

There is a quick change gear box on ebay right now for a craftsmen 12in lathe. I am not sure if 450 bucks is a good price or not, but Len's lathe sure looks worth it.

Cotten, I can help you with flat belts. Please give me the measurements. What model number lathe do you have?

Since we are now talking lathes, I need dimensions for Harley truing stand arbor for the mid-star hubs and later. I copied the dimensions for the early star hub arbor from another site and pasted them in the Harley wanted adds, just need them checked.

[gharper]

The best flat belt I've found for my 1940's Logan is a modern serpentine belt 1" wide, flipped over. Runs smooth and quiet, unlike the rest of the lathe....

[ryan]

The best flat belt I've found for my 1940's Logan is a modern serpentine belt 1" wide, flipped over. Runs smooth and quiet, unlike the rest of the lathe....

I forgot all about the serpentine belt, I remember hearing other people saying the same thing.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

There is a quick change gear box on ebay right now for a craftsmen 12in lathe. I am not sure if 450 bucks is a good price or not, but Len's lathe sure looks worth it.

Cotten, I can help you with flat belts. Please give me the measurements. What model number lathe do you have?

Since we are now talking lathes, I need dimensions for Harley truing stand arbor for the mid-star hubs and later. I copied the dimensions for the early star hub arbor from another site and pasted them in the Harley wanted adds, just need them checked.

Not really, that's kinda high even if it's the price you usually see. The reason is simple -- a lot of guys start with an Atlas or Craftsman. They go on a website and after they are done hearing how bad these lathes are (they aren't) they think they gotta have the quick change to make the lathe "useful." Instead, they need to work on their user input and adjust to the lathe. These things are so light that you have to pay attention in a way you don't on most anything with prizmatic ways or anything with some real HP.

It's more convenient for sure -- but not necessarily that much of a time saver unless you do a lot of production type work. For hobbyists; manually swapping gears becomes a pretty quick affair. You'll find you're really only swapping gears to cut threads -- and you'll soon find you're only cutting a few TPIs reguarly (13,14,20) so you kinda memorize the setting. Feed speeds are pretty forgiving on the atlas/craftsman. The belts often slip long before a feed problem is apparent.

My quick change is real simple -- I have all the gears lined up on a peg board just in front of the lathe. I loosen the three nuts, grab the gears I need, and am done in 90-120 seconds. So, yeah, I waste 2 minutes instead of 2 seconds. I figure it's OK, my beer doesn't get that much colder :-)

Truth is that I hated the atlas at first. I bought it because it was a super sale -- I got a 54 inch model in great condition from an old instrument maker with the absurdly light milling attachment, a nos motor, a brand new power control unit, and tooling for $500. The only catch is that I had to disassemble the lathe to move it; which took all of 20 minutes.

After I worked with the beasty for a few months, I adapted to it. Now that I'm in a new shop -- it likely will become back up to something a bit more substantial. Just gotta wait to see what shows up at the machinery builders and how much cheddar is jingling around.

Until then, I haven't found a job I can't do on the Atlas. I came close with turning some drums lately . . . they almost skimmed the bed with the OD; but I had a hair to spare :-) It just takes a darn long time. We won't talk about the 8 hours I spent making head bolts for my UL. Coulda bought them from colony for $90 -- but I had a stock of 4140 hex bar on hand . . .and nothing better to do over Christmas. When you get the chance to cut threads to fit your exact application -- it's kinda fun too.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

PS: My Van Dorn valve grinder was given to me with a belt with buckle holes.

sounds like the first sunnen I bought . . . one of the 1600 series with the separate motor on top and no integral feed pump. It's amazing how well "repairs" can work -- and I find it darn enjoyable to be working on a 1940s lathe when dealing with machines of a similar age. Slows me down and keeps me thinking . . .

[chuckthebeatertruck]

I have the similar Craftsman baby table top model and it sure is handy.It looks almost identical but miniature.I need one of those link belts as mine looks like an old worn boot lace but you have take apart the whole thing to change it.
Wish I had the big one.
Tom

five will get you ten you can trade someone. As I posted, I got mine for a song. A big part of the reason is that it's a 54 inch bed -- which is way too much bed for many home hobbyists. When all assembled, you need 65 inches of clearance to get the gear cover open and that's too much bench space for most folks. Anyways, put out a CL ad and you might be surprised.

As for the belts, you can buy the "green" ones right over the counter at Harbor Freight and the "red" ones through many online sources. They are usually in the $30-40 range -- and last as long as a "regular" v -belt. They are quieter and run more smoothly -- but they can tear up some v pulleys if they are soft or if you have the lathe in a high dust environment. I haven't had this problem; but a friend has. His pulleys are shiny and almost polished looking compared to mine. I also run my belt much, much looser than he does. It can be hard to convince people loose is good.

[T. Cotten]

I shall certainly need assistance, Ryan!

But I won't have belt lengths until I relocate both lathes.
And that's been in progress a decade.

I poked a hole in the wall for the Logan years ago, but I cannot move it and install the South Bend without shutting down completely for some time.
That's forbidden, as I'm still back-logged insanely.

(But I won't give up.)

...Cotten
PS: I cut the slate with a carpenter's hand saw, and it sharpened it.

[T. Cotten]

sounds like the first sunnen I bought . . . one of the 1600 series with the separate motor on top and no integral feed pump. It's amazing how well "repairs" can work -- and I find it darn enjoyable to be working on a 1940s lathe when dealing with machines of a similar age. Slows me down and keeps me thinking . . .

Mine's got no series, Chuck!

Just "Model LBN Bushing Grinder."

It was $150 forty years ago, and still needs repair.
The serpentine belt number Carl O. gave me doesn't fit without a tear-down.

And down-time ain't allowed.

...Cotten
PS: The Water-Pik oiler on the side is long gone; Still use the mustard bottle

[T. Cotten]

Back almost to topic, Folks..

This BestYet cost me a buck at the annual antique tractor show a few blocks away.
(Didn't need the riveter, just the larger horned anvil.)

Had to walk my labradane twice, just to enjoy spending more money than usual.

The best fishing is in the smallest ponds.

....Cotten
PS: Damn that reminds me to get ready for Davenport.

[doc54]

I know this is an older post, but I'll throw this out there anyway: Regarding flat drive belts, I got mine from squirreldaddy.com. search for "belt". He's got them for South Bend and Atlas, and probably most anything else using a flat belt.

[T. Cotten]

I know this is an older post, but I'll throw this out there anyway: Regarding flat drive belts, I got mine from squirreldaddy.com. search for "belt". He's got them for South Bend and Atlas, and probably most anything else using a flat belt.

Very much appreciated, Doc54!

Now if I could just get my measurements right...

....Cotten