65-primary

[macman]

Has anyone deleted the auto primary oiler and oil crossover on 65 primary? I was wondering how much primary oil to put in. I quess you would want to make sure oil touched lowest part of prim chain without getting clutch plates wet, but its kind of hard to tell without derby cover.

[BigLakeBob]

I did this positive change on my '69 about 50K miles ago. Changed to Barnett plates and use ATF as a fluid, which they recommend. I hardly ever need a chain or clutch adjustment. I use 8oz. when a dry fill, and about 6oz. when changing. Some fluid stays in the lowest part of the primary. This amount is enough to fill up into the starter ring which splashes it for the lube of the chain. Hope this helps.

[T. Cotten]

Folks,...

My only reflection upon this notion is that when my shop accepted chassis work (now many years ago...), every "sealed primary" was dry, the chains trashed, and much of the hardware along with it.

If you are not an attentive and fastidious maintainer of the particular machine, it is a bad bet.

If you are, you have too much time on your hands.

...Cotten

[macman]

Bob did you have to vent the primary? I would think after it gets hot in there it could cause gaskets to leak.

[BigLakeBob]

Yes, you need to vent. I think I used the small angled nipple, I forget is that vent anyway, sorry for the vagueness its just been a while but I could look at the routing and give you all the details if you need. Its not going to get any hotter than it did before. As far as what Cotton said, if you have good gaskets and your drain plug doesn't leak where is the fluid going to go? Totally disagree, not one problem. 50K miles, same primary chain and clutch plates. My friend just did the same to his '72FL and couldn't be happier. Was having clutch issues and with those Barnett plates, none. Not sure of when, maybe mid '80s HD went back to a sealed primary didn't they? Good luck, let me know if you need exact routing of lines.

Just wanted to add, again this is from memory its early and I'm not in front of the bike, I know I capped off the oil pump vent. I used a car vacuum plug then used thin wire to wire tie it, the same wire as used when tying a nut or bolt to keep it from turning. Every couple of years this cap or plug dry rots and I need to replace it.

[macman]

Bob thanks again, another friend of mine said I didn't need to vent because it would vent thru trans, anyways I think I'll be ok. Checked into Barnett plates but now I wondering about the thin friction plate on clutch basket, Barnett doesn't have that (for wet/dry clutch) Thanks again! John

[duffeycycles]

Harley eliminated the auto oiling for a reason.The systems suck chain debrie into the motor and the return to tank oil pump gear keys sheared when debrie stuck in the gears causing a buildup of oil in crankcase-Kerbluie
Later systems are not vented
The amount of oil is the same as it was before-very little.Remove the return connection pour in oil till it runs out and that is all you need-unless you want a wet clutch

[shovel_head_fred]

I've had some experience with this conversion and it wasn't good. Went back to original setup and happy ever after. As far as the debri issue mentioned in duffycycles post, I installed a prefilter on the return line from the inner primary and clean it with every oil change. It prevents the issue of sheared oil pump gears. My 2 cents.

[T. Cotten]

Macman!

Please explain how it vents through the transmission.

And Duffeycycles!
I haven't paid attention to later models, but when did they switch to this "better idea"? It seems like it was a successful design from '65 well into the '80s somewhere.
(That's longer that Knuckles were produced.)

A magnet drainplug is prudent of course.

The only thing I have found to shear a pump key was a chrome screw out of a new Paughco tank

....Cotten

[BigLakeBob]

I am also confused with the venting through the trans. I don't think '65 had them, but later the 3 piece starter rings gears used to chip a tooth and do as Roger said. I have about 10 old pumps here that's exactly what happened to them. I am not trying to push or sell this conversion, it makes no difference to me, but why put a filter on something that really shouldn't recirculate anyway. Just curious shovelheadfred, what type of clutch plates and fluid did you use. I am just extremely satisfied with this setup using the Barnett plates and ATF, as I said before 50K and not one problem on a '69FL.

[macman]

The more I think about it, I quess it can't vent thru trans. Sorry guys not only my first 65 but my first restoration! I'm learning a lot thanks to this forum! I already closed all lines on inner primary, have all new clutch basket (oem) and plates, when I first checked into doing this I was told 16 oz of oil, well after some thinking and running bike (still on lift) I wondered if I ruined my new clutch plates,(to much oil). If so, do you think I should put the wet/dry plates in from Barnett and put less oil in? I do want to leave it a closed primary. Thanks again for all your input!! macman

[BigLakeBob]

http://www.barnettclutches.com/1372/...-early-84.html

I looked everywhere and couldn't find my Barnett installation sheet. I would just contact Barnett tech help, tell them your concerns, ask all questions and get an instruction sheet sent to you. I really do not believe oem plates were made to run in that much oil. I was very hesitant on using ATF in the primary, always thinking that 60wt was always there before, but with their plates they know the right combination. Again, good luck, just relating my positive experiences.

[BigLakeBob]

Copied from 1992 Easyriders Tech Tips & Tricks (I'm sure I'll get sh!t for this).

[duffeycycles]

Barnett plates with trans fluid works well