Indian tank rebuilding

[Knotthed]

Any suggestions for rebuilding Indian gas/oil tanks?

Type of Solder/flux?

Fixtures?

Heating?

Metal is solid but rusty - with some dents. Someone has leaded some of the dents already - I would also like to remove that and beat out the dents as much as possible first.

Should they be welded back together instead of soldered? MIG, TIG?

I have heard they should be tin coated after being soldered?

All comments welcome.

[Chris Haynes]

I take mine to the local radiator shop and let them deal with it.

[junkyarddog]

You tin coat before you solder back together.
Jim

[jim d]

D. J. Knott
If you check in the AMCA magazine issues winter 93 and spring 94 there is a two part article on this repair. It goes into detail on tools needed, materials, where to buy them and how to do it. This is a great how to article. You did not say what year tanks you are repairing, the later tanks are hi temp silver soldered together. I think they started that in 1951. These tanks are very hard to take apart without damaging them. Repairs to them can be made by cutting a acess hole in the back and repairing the hole afterward. Jim D

[fillibuster]

Knotthed, you poor bastard!!
Tanks are punishing, especially if you intend to ride the heck out of it. I followed the 93-94 articles as well, but had my best luck (most miles) after tig welding them, after which I pressure-tested them at 22 psi and chased pin-holes in a large tub of water. .. but I can't recommend this to anybody else cuz I'd get shot!
After 14 years (and many many miles) of tank grief I bought the new welded tanks. They were leaking 3 yrs later also, and received the sealer treatment at the radiator shop.
The tank work is a great character-builder, and it may take a few years and some miles to realize your failure. I hope your luck is better than mine.

[Knotthed]

They are for a 36 chief.

I just checked the Virtual library and did not find any of the past club magazines there.

I thought I saw awhile back where you could buy a cd or dvd of all of the back issues. Would this be worthwhile? or is the club going to add them to the virtual library at some point?

Would anyone be kind enough to scan it in and post or email to me?

I prefer the sound of welded tanks over the soldered. I also cracked a smile hearing that the welded ones leaked after 3 years and it gives me some hope of attempting the rejuvenation on mine.

Ultimately I will have to decide if I want to fix the ones I have or buy new.

Keep it coming - I'd like to hear the stories - good and bad!

[micmac]

Phil's right,for riding buy new ones.

[fillibuster]

I had modified my right half, made a new inside sheet in 2 pieces, and extended the oil bag left/right plate all the way to the inside wall so that only one wall would separate the oil from the gas, and increase oil capacity to 3.5 quarts. So I was able to pressure test the oil bag before welding the rear "half" gas bag. ... I melted and wire brushed the tin from the areas to be welded. The left half got a new inside sheet also, hammered it out. I was fairly proud of it all for several years, but the miles took their toll, I figure. Considering that new bikes have rubber-mounted tanks with flexible lines, I'm not surprised.

Same time, I often feel like I'm the only guy having tank problems. On road runs, I'd be lurking around the parked bikes listening for anybody else's "PSssss,.. PSssss,.. PSsssss" , gas dripping on a hot head. Nope! I'm the only one, woe is me!

You'll want to solder those 36's. Don't rush things.

[Runnlo]

Just my personal opinion is to clean your tank halves where they solder together...and when you think you have them clean...clean them again. Then tin all mateing surfaces. Incase you don't understand the tinning procedure. Flux the "CLEAN" surface...then heat it just enough to melt the solder. DO NOT OVER HEAT!! one of the main things people do when attempting to solder, is to over heat it. This will burn the flux,and not let the solder "TAKE" to the tank. Take your torch and start heating the tank. Fan the flame over a couple inches of the tank, while you're doing this keep touching the solder to the tank until it starts to melt...when it does keep fanning the flame and chasing it with the solder. After you have gone a foot or so go back to where you started, and fan the flame over the solder you just put on ,and when it gets to the melting point again, wipe over it with a clean cotton cloth until all of the solder that may be built up is wiped off and all that is left is a shiny film of solder. I know that was a long drawn out explanation...but that is what you call tinning. Do that all the way around both tanks, and then you are ready to solder your tanks together. Make sure there are no spots where the solder is not stuck(tinned) to the tanks. Put your tanks together...line them up and solder a few places around the tanks to keep them in line. When you're ready to solder em' up, just do the same thing with your torch and solder heat the tank by fanning the flame,and touching the tank with the solder. The solder will stick to the tinning process. when you're done you will have a nice leak free tank. I would test it with some water and a little air pressure before I put gas in it, just incase you have a pin hole in it. If you have to make a repair make sure you drain the water out. It will not solder with water in it. Also I used 95/5 solder. I was a plumber for 40 years, but I haven't done any for a while. You'll have to check around to find out what the best material would be for the job you're doing. Good luck.

[Tom Wilcock]

Knotthed: I have had good luck by COMPLETELY dissassembling the tanks and then hammering out any dents. I then take all the pieces to a plating shop and have everything electroplated with tin. I use a non acid flux when reassembling and see no advantage to tinning the soldered areas first. When finished there is no need to use any of the questionable tank sealers on the market and the tin plating on the outside surfaces also provides rust protection. Tom Wilcock, 381

[exeric]

This is the stuff I use to fix gas tanks. However, I didn't include the glass beading cabinet and that is very important. The metal has to be surgically clean and that can't be stressed enough. Unfortunately, getting rusty old steel clean is very difficult and it will haunt you through the whole process. I use a copper soldering iron that I heat with the propane torch. I never put a flame to the metal because that takes a very skilled and delicate touch and the sheet metal can be over-heated before you know it. When that happens, you are back to square one and have to re-prepare the metal. That is why I use a large copper iron that holds it's heat, and applies the right amount of heat for soldering. I use 50/50 solder. Tom Wilcock suggested tin plating the tank and that is the supreme way to go if you can find a plater. I think you should give it a try because a big part of our hobby is doing this stuff yourself. If it turns out to be a disaster; buy new tanks from Starklite.

[Knotthed]

Thanks for the info - keep it coming.

I will start looking for a tin plater in my area.

What about alignment of the mounting tabs etc? Do I need to make any jigs or tooling to keep everything in the correct spot/location?

if any of the parts are bad like a filler neck are parts available?

Does the old magazine article cover all of this?

Thanks again everyone.

[fillibuster]

Thanks Eric! Your encouragement is spot on.
I have an assortment of tank materials and repair materials, and have been loathing the day I go back to work with it. Now I'm almost anxious for the punishment again!
Those 36 tanks are bayonet caps, right?

[exeric]

Every tank is different and each one has it's own peculiar problems. The biggest problem I have encountered with early gas tanks is rusted out sections or lacey deep rust that presents many pinhole leaks. Tank sealers are the easiest fix and can be quite effective, but I prefer to cut the metal out and spot weld a flange that I can solder a repair panel too. I should have mentioned that my other favorite tool for sheet metal work is a spot welder.

I would make a plywood template for the mounting tab locations; provided your tanks already fit well. Also, I would replace the tanks before I would replace a filler neck. Finally, you should seriously consider using a tank sealer such as POR 15 or Redcoat if you're only talking about a small seam leak or a few pinholes. Taking tanks apart is an ordeal that is best reserved for tanks that can't be replaced. If you want to ride your Indian a lot, you should get a new set that are tig welded and made of heavier gauge metal.

[tomfiii]

Hi, Just a word of advice,keep flux bottle tightly capped and keep any brushes or rags for fluxing away from anything that is metal as anything even remotely close will start to rust like crazy.