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  • home brew

    Hi all,
    Thought I'd share something I found.

    "Machinist's Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

    *They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with
    the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
    "scientifically rusted" environment.

    *Penetrating oil ..... Average load*

    None ..................... 516 pounds
    WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
    PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
    Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
    Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
    ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

    *The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission
    fluid and acetone.*
    *Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one
    particular test.
    . Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
    as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."

  • #2
    Wow! If those results are valid, that's pretty amazing. Useful info too. Gotta give it a try.

    Of course, it won't be in a pressurized can with nifty long tube applicator. Little squirt oil can might work. Or maybe brush it on?

    I've had some rusted on @%.$@! fasteners in the past. Miserable!

    Here's a little story. A pal and I were up exploring the Lake Superior copper mines a few years ago in his truck. At Horseshoe Harbor I was hiking down the coastline and found a good can of PB Blaster washed up on shore. So I took it along. Back at the truck, however, we discovered a FLAT tire. Lug nuts wouldn't budge and for a minute it seemed like the great FOUND can of PB Blaster would solve the problem. Like maybe God sent it or something!

    So we applied the PB Blaster liberally and gave it some time to act. Then applied the lug wrench -- a weird flimsy Dodge ratchet unit that also functioned as part of the jack. You guessed it. The cheap lug nut wrench simply bent and then broke and the lug nut wouldn't budge. So much for PB Blaster sent from Heaven! Actually the lug nuts had been WAY over-torqued and had to be cut off with a torch.

    Any other goofy stuck nut stories out there?
    Herbert Wagner
    AMCA 4634
    =======
    The TRUE beginnings of the Harley-Davidson Motor Co.

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    • #3
      oh.yhea. i've been trying to remove the exaust lifter from my anzani motor.it doubles has a shut off.when i got it. i saw the liftersides where mared up bad.so i started to use kroil.i wished the owner before me used kroil.most likely then i wouldn't need some funny half size metric wrench. so i heated and used kroil nothing moved.that's fine i got nothing but time.more kroil and a better way to clamp this thing to the bench.try again nothing moves.now i can see the shape of the lifter wont let the kroil in.the wrench keeps slipping off.rounder and rounder the lifter gets.like i said i got lots of time.i put the whole case in a tub and place it on an old vibrating football game.i let that thing vibrate for a week.now i think i'm the smartest guy in the world with a $5.00 ultra sonic cleaner.this thing looks great.well a week later lifter still wont move
      now it's getting to me friggin thing just wont move. i find i nice deep socket which fits the mared up lifter sides.still nothing moves.the socket falls off.time for more kroil and heat.by this time i have sim stock all around the lifter to keep the socket from slipping off.i make a wooden guide to keep the socket in line with the nut. i don't want this thing to wobble off.i give it a real good try and nothing moves.but hay the socket finally stays on.i got some progress.more heat and more kroil.nothing moves.i got to walk away.back to the vibrating football game for 2 weeks this time.some says to me use bee's wax and heat.wax will melt down into the hole and make things nice.yhea right.nothing worked.
      by now the sides of the lifter need to be filed back to shape.i buy a smaller socket to fit and try everything again. 6 weeks and nothing moves. i guy i work with says. you should try to over thightin it to break it loose.REVERSE THREADS
      rob ronky #10507
      www.diamondhorsevalley.com

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      • #4
        The benefit with the Kroil is that you can heat the part, apply it and it will wick in. Unless the heat is reduced, I believe the acetone will boil off and leave a messy residue. However, for soaking large parts, the ATF-A mix is definitely cheaper. Interesting how close LW is to Kroil.

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        • #5
          I once heard that Kroil was KeRosene and OIL
          Be sure to visit;
          http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
          Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
          Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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          • #6
            Originally posted by HarleyCreation View Post
            Actually the lug nuts had been WAY over-torqued and had to be cut off with a torch.

            Any other goofy stuck nut stories out there?
            I hope you didn't have to cut off the wheel studs. A good torch man can cut off the nut without messing up the threads.
            Dave

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            • #7
              Very cool thread with some interesting info! Thanks rousseau!
              Cory Othen
              Membership#10953

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              • #8
                CarWell CP-90, rust inhibitor, penetrant and you can paint over it to lock the rust inhibitor under the coating. Sold & used it for years, only project where it did not work was stainless set screw oxidized welded into an aluminum clamp.

                Tried it on a crescent wrench dumpster dived at a military post and also a 1-1/8" fastener with the nut rust welded onto the fastener. The fastener and nut sat in a 55 gallon drum that was wet/dry cycled for about 3 years so the fastener was rust welded tight.

                Both instances no wrench torque was used and a little tapping and the wrench and fastener came apart with only hand torque after about 15 minutes of set time and work.

                This stuff is great for battery connections, cable lube as it does not get sticky and gum up and works well over parkerized finishes. It brings
                the finish to a "well oiled machine" look. It gets absorbed into the metal substrate and over time the gloss left on the surface slackens. Apply once a year to the complete machine and you'll never have a frozen fastener problem or undercutting of paint due to corrosion activity.

                Tons of tests done and am suprised this was not part of the group reported on.

                Military has spent about 7 million in tests of this stuff and is used by USMC and Army for fleet presertvation of tactical equipment.

                Not trying to sell anyone anything here, but when you see a good product and have great results people should know about it.

                Frustratingly funny reading about the reverse thread, how many times I've been there and done that!

                Rich Moran
                18043
                www.corrosioncops.com
                Last edited by ricmoran; 11-26-2010, 02:53 AM.

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