Saddlebag Restoration

[Eric MATHIEU]

Nice bikes. I'm not a BA expert at all but it seems to me that cam cover you have with some sort of oil feed to the crank is not common. Worth looking into. The 45 looks great the way it is too!
Eric

[BPK!!]

Ed,
Thanks for the pic's! The 45 is a sweet heart, and the saddlebags look very salvageable. I'd even leave the buddy seat on it, as you have the accessory passenger footboard extensions. Is that blue paint I see on the nose of the saddle or a reflection?
The OHV is also a period custom hotrod of sorts-very presentable as well-find the missing parts and run it as is-again congrats--BPK!!

[eddiepanhead]

BKP,
The paint you speak of is in fact overspray. I have seen paint touch ups in several spots. I have pulled the oil bag and removed paint to effect a repair. It's a one or coat paint job. Not 100% sure about the paint. It appears original on the back of the tanks and in remote spots. Can't be positive.

Do you have any clues to the origin of the fenders on the BA? Somebody spent a lot of time modifying this machine. What kind of saddle do you put on a high speed machine like this?
Ed

[Blupacer]

Fenders look like 34 RL 45", also AA OHV had a MAG. Just a guess.

Steve

[Sargehere]

Before everyone gets a negative opinion of Pure Neatsfoot oil, I thought I'd contribute that I've been using Pure Neatsfoot oil for years, and it keeps leather saddlebags supple and waterproof with regular use.
I had a pair of cavalry bags built by the man who makes and maintains the tack used on the funerary caissons at Arlington National Cemetery. He also builds all the saddles and tack for the Ceremonial Detachment at the center for US Army Cavalry, Fort Riley, Kansas. When I got the bags from him, I asked him what to use on them. He said, "Pure neatsfoot oil. Stay away from neatsfoot oil compound, but pure neatsfoot oil is the best.'
Most of the bad rep expressed here and elsewhere in regards to neatsfoot oil comes from people using "neatsfoot oil compound," or the same thing by some other qualifiying name, on old bags and seats and expecting miracle results.
"Neatsfoot oil compound" consists of neatsfoot oil (actually made from calves' shinbones, not their "hooves,") mixed with mineral oils. That's where the danger, and the bad rep for neatsfoot oil come in. The hardening and cracking are caused by the mineral oils. But don't over do it, either, leading to oversaturation and moldiness and weakening of the leather.
Pure neatsfoot oil does best by preserving relatively new leather, and keeping it waterproof. It also works to bring it back old leather, to a degree, but I don't doubt that the new compounds do great job. Just my two cents.

[T. Cotten]

Before everyone gets a negative opinion of Pure Neatsfoot oil, I thought I'd contribute that I've been using Pure Neatsfoot oil for years, and it keeps leather saddlebags supple and waterproof with regular use.
I had a pair of cavalry bags built by the man who makes and maintains the tack used on the funerary caissons at Arlington National Cemetery. He also builds all the saddles and tack for the Ceremonial Detachment at the center for US Army Cavalry, Fort Riley, Kansas. When I got the bags from him, I asked him what to use on them. He said, "Pure neatsfoot oil. Stay away from neatsfoot oil compound, but pure neatsfoot oil is the best.'
Most of the bad rep expressed here and elsewhere in regards to neatsfoot oil comes from people using "neatsfoot oil compound," or the same thing by some other qualifiying name, on old bags and seats and expecting miracle results.
"Neatsfoot oil compound" consists of neatsfoot oil (actually made from calves' shinbones, not their "hooves,") mixed with mineral oils. That's where the danger, and the bad rep for neatsfoot oil come in. The hardening and cracking are caused by the mineral oils. But don't over do it, either, leading to oversaturation and moldiness and weakening of the leather.
Pure neatsfoot oil does best by preserving relatively new leather, and keeping it waterproof. It also works to bring it back old leather, to a degree, but I don't doubt that the new compounds do great job. Just my two cents.

Sarge,

Wait until you discover some bag lids are horsehide.

The damage is fast, total, and irreversible.

....Cotten

[stevekleincustom]

Horsehide vs cowhide?

Sarge,

Wait until you discover some bag lids are horsehide.

The damage is fast, total, and irreversible.

....Cotten

Mr. Cotten;

Please let us know the difference in care and treatment between horsehide and cowhide sir. I am interested to know.

Thank You
Steve Klein
AMCA Member 12176
Cherokee Chapter
Georgetown TX

[T. Cotten]

Mr. Cotten;

Please let us know the difference in care and treatment between horsehide and cowhide sir. I am interested to know.

Thank You
Steve Klein
AMCA Member 12176
Cherokee Chapter
Georgetown TX

Steve!

Its simple.
If it turns to rock you chose the wrong dressing.

Since we have no accurate means of determining vintage leather species, it is best to avoid all offending dressings that may destroy a historic piece.

I am not a leather professional,
but Paquette is.
We should follow his advice.

....Cotten

[Coolbreeze]

Old leather saddle bags

Cotten is correct, neatsfoot oil or indeed any type of oil is a NO NO!!!!! They will soften the leather at first but will also seal the leather so that it cannot breathe nor take in moisture. They will eventually turn hard as a rock (that is after they mold and mildew). Please stick with glycerene based products such as Lexol--Michael--6671

I used a combination of neatsfoot oil and Lexol leather conditioner on the original bags on my '48 Chief. First, I soaked them with oil and then waited a few days before applying conditioner. They were fairly hard efore I soaked them with oil. They now seem a little more pliable.

The only noticeable problem appeared after the bike and I got caught in a downpour one night a couple of years ago. The bags got soaked because I trusted the weather forecast and had not brought a tarp with me on that camping trip. Now, I have bumps on one of the bags. I'm guessing water reached dry leather that had not gotten enough oil. The water caused the leather to swell in those few areas not well oiled. Like I said, that was at least 2 years ago -- and the bumps are still there.

BTW, I paid $40 for that old Indian and have ridden it for over 40 years now. I have aged a lot more than the bike during those years!

[Paquette]

I have stated before and will state one more time STAY AWAY FROM ANY TYPE OF OIL, neats foot or other wise. Old leather does not need oil, it needs moisture and glycerene based products attract moisture. As Cotten says I know my business and my business is leather. It does not matter if it is horsehide or cowhide, leather needs to breathe and oils seal leather and just junk up the works. Sarge, in all due respect , I know the difference in neatsfoot oil and all the compounds. Just stay away from oil and use glycerene based products. As I have stated, this is the business I am in and I believe I know of what I speak--Michael--6671

[Glenn]

Mike restored a set of bags for me and beleive me he knows his business.


ps
mike are you going to oley and can I bring some cad stuff to you to be done ?

glenn mills aka moose

[T. Cotten]

I finally found a circa 1981 photo of the bags that I later ruined with neats'foot.

The lids turned to wood, if not stone, and an old-timer declared them horsehide.

Can anyone identify the origin of these bags?

Thanks in advance,

....Cotten