parkerizing question

[Paps]

I have a problem with the 1000 degree technique. That is way to hot for some properties of particular parts components. Tempering / strengths, will be compromised at such high heats. As far as differences in parkerizing shades go...I have hundreds of factory parkerized parts. Most are a deep dark shade but many are lighter and some near next to gray in color. All were sealed in preservative, until I unearthed them. I lean more towards the material beneath the solution, than I do towards the process, of parkerizing, as the reason for the color shades. It may be the hardness of the material which affects the process, not just the metals carbon structure and overall make up. Paps

[exeric]

My restoration efforts have been aimed at true basket cases. Bikes that were destined for scrap. No original paint, deep rust, mangled sheet metal, and badly bent frames. Oh yeah, and lots of missing parts. Try finding a genuine primary cover for a 1916 Excelsior. That same bike had a fork and fender that had been smashed flat by something very heavy. Should I have restored it, or let it go to scrap. I had a 1948 Chief that had literally been burried underground at a nursery in Southern Georgia. It had plenty of genuine rust and character but I guess I should have left it alone to rot. The rustiest bike I ever had was a 1928 JD but I was young and full of enthusiasm and I finished it. I'd probably walk past it today but my hard work put something back on the road. The 48FL I'm currently working on started as a pair of gas tank hanging from the rafters. I restored a badly bent chopper frame and used parts from Race Frame Eng. and Comp. Dist. and supported hard working craftsmen that cater to our hobby. I shop at swap meets and support vendors who make their living selling bike parts. I've been around this hobby for quite a few years and I remember seeing nice original bikes but the majority. . . The overwhelming majority of old bikes had been "destroyed" many years earlier when old motorcycles could be had for $5. Today, people are working with what they can find and afford. You're going to be working with a bike that has been through many "personalized" restorations. However, if you want to preserve some "metalic pea" rattle can painted Harley Hummer, be my guest.

[Robert Luland]

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"My restoration efforts have been aimed at true basket cases. Bikes that were destined for scrap. No original paint, deep rust, mangled sheet metal, and badly bent frames"

That a boy Eric. Now your talking sex!

[rashd]

Experiment’en ya know! This is how I got the best results. I boil the parts in a pot adjacent to the solution for at least an half an hour. Why you may ask. It will get residual oil and grease off. Muriatic acid does not eat petroleum only rust.

RL,
I'm curious, now. I haven't bought any solution, yet. To "boil the parts...for at least a half hour..." sounds like a reasonable approach to me, but did you mean boiled in an acid solution? I could even accept a boiled water bath, but those parts would surely need complete drying after careful and extensive cleaning. Do parts need drying or baking after parking?

ras

[Chris Haynes]

Do parts need drying or baking after parking?ras

Parts that are to be painted just need to air dry. Parts that are not going to be painted need a hot oil bath immediately after coming out of the hot Parkerizing mixture. I use motor oil heated in an electric frying pan.

[Robert Luland]

Ras I have a big old lobster pot that I boil the parts in water for a half an hour or so. Then just pluck them out and dump them in the solution. I think Chris gave me the idea about the water but it really does get the last of the hidden crud off. The only reason I haven't played with a pressure cooker is. I can't find one at a garage sale big enough to fit say an axel. If I can find one I'd like to try parking at a high temp and see the results then. Heres another handy tip. Sand blasting paint off parts is a real tiring bullshit job. I use that same lobster pot and boil the part and then blast it. The paint comes right off 123 even in the tight spots. Chris thanks for the the electric frier thing. Now if I can only find a garage sale in NJ in December I got it made. There is one more thing about this thread that funny. My 15 old sons name is Parker. To say the least weve had some fun playing with that. Ride safe lads. Bob L

[rwm]

you want a big pot ? buy a stainless keg of beer. drink it and don't return the keg , cut the top off, and you have an 8 gal. pot. only cost is your $10 deposit . better the any yard sale

[23JDCA 808]

If you live near a college town, sometimes the kegs will show up behind frat houses. I know in Oregon that most of the metal recyclers have quit taking them. The beer company owns the keg and have been working harder to get them back, what with the price of scrap going up. ...bill in oregon

[Rooster]

you want a big pot ? buy a stainless keg of beer. drink it and don't return the keg , cut the top off, and you have an 8 gal. pot. only cost is your $10 deposit . better the any yard sale

Only a $10 deposit?! Around here, they seriously want that keg back--- I haven't bought a keg in decades, but even back then it was a huge deposit, like 5 times what the beer cost.