Tweet
Brake cross over bushings!
Got to pick a brain here? Didn’t know where to post this one since there’s not a frame or chassis category on this forum. My quest has to do with the brake cross over shaft on big twin ridged frames and bushing replacement. I have a few of these to do and they have bin on hold do to what happened with the first one. The bushings I have are from Teddy’s Newburg kitchen. I have to assume that they are over the counter bushings available anywhere were the factory ones were cut just about dead on. I pressed in the first set and decided to use a dingle berry hone with honing fluid to fit the shaft. It took forever. I soon came to realize that two things were at hand. 1. Just about every crossover tube has bin wacked at one time. 2. Since the shaft only turns a quarter of a turn in use it wares off center. The dingle berry hone got it close but a tight & loose fit that sucked. I guess what’s really needed is a double reamer or some way of having a reamer at one end with a centering pilot at the other to get it straight. Well I guess there is a third way and that would be to jig the whole frame in the milling machine which definitely isn’t happening. Has anyone here come up with a workable solution to my quest? Bob L
-
A fourth way would be to take it to a machine shop with a Sunnen hone and have two guys manhandle the sucker over the arbor until the shaft fits. Not a real favorable scenario, but actually probably do-able. (Just went through this with brake cam bushing in backing plate). I have looked at adjustable/expandable reams, nothing that would be long enough to fit that application, and reams want to 'flute out' anyway, so not really a good option. (Can't imagine a ream chucked up in a hand-held drill, anyway.)
You're right, the functional travel is less than 90 degrees. It's not the space shuttle.
Just my humble opinion.... -
Bob, I use a long, piloted, adjustable reamer designed for automotive kingpin bushing replacement. Available from Goodson Automotive and others. You may have to cut your own bushings as some aftermarket from v-twin and others have too large an ID to start with. I ream the bushings to just free fit and then finish with fine lapping compound.Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046Comment
-
man ,i just took a wooden dowl a lil smaller diamater and cut a slot in it ,wrapped a piece of sand paper in slot and around dowl ...honed it out , took no time at all and worked for me. i used replacement bushings from taiwan teds stuffComment
-
Kyle, would you have a source for that particluar ream?Originally posted by koanes View Post
Thanks.Comment
-
I'll get a part # and link to the supplier together.Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046Comment
-
Now were cooking with gas! I knew one you guys had to have discovered something over the years. I was betting no one was going to answer this. Bob LComment
-
I took an over the counter adjustable line reamer and made an extension so it was long enough to reach thru the whole distance. Used it on 2 frames so far and no problems. I usually have been amking my own bushings.
JerryComment
-
I guess as long as you have some kind of cone on the end of the exstention to keep it centered. You definitly have to think out side the box. Kyle and Jerry ya got me thinking. My machine dist now has a catalog. Good prodject for a wet, grey Sunday. All that begging for candy yesterday burned me out. Bob LComment
-
The order code for the reamer from Goodson is KPR-E. You can check them out at www.goodson.com Page 125 of the online catalog.Last edited by koanes; 11-01-2009, 09:05 AM.Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046Comment
-
Good deal. A V-Twin bushing mike out at .728 and that reamer starts at .718. Job done. Thank you. Bob LComment
-
-
What a great tool! Used it twice already. No problems. Until the third frame. Now heres one for thought. This is a 57 straight leg frame with all the goodies still intact. I cut and pulled the old ones out (Little suckers are quite comfortable in there. I mean they don't want to leave home). Now the mystery. The left side hole mikes at .804 and the right at .747. The first thing I thought of was that the tube had been cut off doing the chopper days and was replaced by some butcher. That’s not the case. I put a bore scope in there and unless this guy was Houdini it was never touched. The only thing I can come up with is the tube got by the inspectors on the line unmachined and was welded in and instead of screwing with the frame it was easier to machine a bushing to fit and send it on it’s merry way to do what was intended to do. Getting ugly people laid. Anyone else ever had this problem (I mean the bushing not getting laid)? Bob LOriginally posted by koanes View PostComment
Comment