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Penetrating Oil Recipe ????

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  • Penetrating Oil Recipe ????

    Hello all, I want to make a dip tank for motors. Since I haven't hit the lottery ,I can't afford five gallons of Blaster,Kroil etc. There must of been some kind of formula that the boys used back in the day. ??? Thank You Carl Pusherman Racing

  • #2
    Do you mean a dip tank for cleaning parts, or a dip tank for soaking rusty parts ?
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

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    • #3
      Varsol--Varsol

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      • #4
        Some of the best cleaners are not, shall we say, environmentally friendly. In fact some are quite toxic. Rather than risk contaminating my property we take stuff like oil tanks or even motor parts to be degreased to either a radiator shop (which is becoming a rarity now due to throw-away radiators) or to a motor rebuilder who can properly clean and vat a nasty greasy hunk of old iron. IMHO that is the easiest and in the long run cheapest way to go.
        Lonnie Campbell #9908
        South Cackalackey, U.S. of A.

        Come see us at the Tenth Annual AMCA Southern National Meet - May 17-19, 2019 at Denton FarmPark, Denton, N.C.

        Visit the website for vendor and visitor information at www.amcasouthernnationalmeet.com

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        • #5
          dip tank

          Hello, I have a few motors that are stuck & was hoping to find a great penetrating recipe that was affordable, thank you Carl

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          • #6
            Originally posted by big jesus 151 View Post
            Hello, I have a few motors that are stuck & was hoping to find a great penetrating recipe that was affordable, thank you Carl
            Time and solvents have worked for me in the past. I pulled a 1950's Mecedes down that was stuck. I kept a pool of solvent-of-the week on top of each piston and would whack the piston top with a hammer on a piece of two-by-four; crank shaft had been removed. When I got tired of that, I'd flip the block over and whack from the piston's underside. After a month, I tried putting dry ice on the piston top; bottom might have been better but I don't remember. Finally got the pistons out and they were junk from the corrision. The ring lands were dust. I was a grand experiment though. ...bill in oregon
            Bill Gilbert in Oregon

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            • #7
              I have a friend that soaks his rusty stuff in a barrel of used ATF and swears it works well.
              Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046

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              • #8
                I read in another forum, that Coco-cola works good. Not diet coke, real Coke. Ive used it once on a stuck BSA piston and it worked. Well, I should say the piston was able to be removed with some persuasion with a wood block and a mallet. Who knows how stuck it was. Im gonna try it again on a Suzuki Titan T500 thats also stuck. I let it soak for a couple weeks and then take the head off. Its kinda messy when the head comes off. Soda pop all over the place. Kinda makes you thirsty dont it?
                Scott Larson
                AMCA #13589
                Omaha Chapter

                1953 HD FLE
                1971 HD FLH
                1971 Triumph Bonneville 650
                1973 Norton Commando 750

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                • #9
                  I've heard that a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone works wonders.

                  But I know for a fact that Kroil is good stuff. Awfully pricey in the aerosol spray, but not badly priced by the gallon or 5 gallon bucket. But then I use a lot of it.....

                  http://www.kanolabs.com/
                  Last edited by Rick Pope; 02-03-2009, 02:10 PM. Reason: add link

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                  • #10
                    I've heard that a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone works wonders.

                    But I know for a fact that Kroil is good stuff. Awfully pricey in the aerosol spray, but not badly priced by the gallon or 5 gallon bucket. But then I use a lot of it....

                    http://www.kanolabs.com/

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by big jesus 151 View Post
                      Hello, I have a few motors that are stuck & was hoping to find a great penetrating recipe that was affordable, thank you Carl
                      #2 stove oil (diesel fuel) or #1 stove oil (kerosine) were the old time degreasing/degumming fluids and can be filtered and used over again. If you have a parts washer with a pump make sure that the pump and electrics are OK for petroleum solvents - some of the cheap offshore ones require the use of water-based (non-petroleum) detergent-based solvents.

                      For iron-to-iron rust situations like rings to cylinder in an engine or rusted gears to shafts I like a mixture of 1 lb. of molasses in a gallon of warm water. Make enough to submerge the degreased engien completely and leave for a few days or maybe a week. (check every day) It turns the red iron oxide (rust) to black iron oxide which can be washed away. Works good on fenders and tanks as well, but once the rust is off, oil the parts or paint them ASAP as the clean metal will start to rust again within the hour.

                      Keep the molasses solution in a covered container - bees and flies are attracted to it - particularly when it starts to ferment in warm weather. As it is just sugar and water is is non toxic and can safely be disposed of.

                      AFJ

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                      • #12
                        Hello, I have used a trick that a gunsmith told me on a inline six cylinder
                        engine that was stuck due to no exhaust flipper.and also on a froze metal exhaust nut in a Moto Guzzi v-twin aluminum head.
                        I soaked it in WHITE VINEGAR for several days
                        Good Luck Paul

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                        • #13
                          oil of wintergreen works
                          1946 chief 1948 chief 1948 wl 1950wl 1941ulwith sidecar 47 chief(in the works)65bsa

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                          • #14
                            [QUOTE=slarsonroy;75736]I read in another forum, that Coco-cola works good. Not diet coke, real Coke. QUOTE]

                            Coke has the same acid in it that is used to prep bare metal before painting. It is phosphoric acid. It is a very low concentration compared to metal prep, but still the same stuff. It likes to eat rust.
                            Regards,
                            Rob Sigond
                            AMCA # 1811

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