Cleaning Surface Rust From Gas/Oil Tanks

[c.o.]

In prepping my WLA for spring riding, I decided I had better deal with the surface rust in my tanks. So far I've got them off and have steamed them out with piping hot water and and now they are airing out. The gas tank is worse off than the oil tank, but they aren't really too bad. I figured I'd better tie into them because I don't want to have to think about problems with rust while riding down the road! I've got a few thoughts about dealing with this rolling around in my head, but I thought I'd throw the question out there and see what folks on the forum have to say regarding the matter. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[23JDCA 808]

You might go to the Search feature in the blue bar above here; type in gas tank seal. Lots of input there. ...bill

[c.o.]

Thanks for the thought Bill. But I think I'm going to shy away from sealers and the like. I had the idea of using good old fashioned elbow grease, but was curious on what others may have tried.

[23JDCA 808]

I agree, what with some of the stories that have been told with lining peeling off.
For easy cleaning, one of the ideas posted was putting old nuts and bolts in there, then tying the tank in a caccoon of old clothes and putting it in the dryer using a non-heat cycle to tumble the tank. ...bill

[c.o.]

I agree, what with some of the stories that have been told with lining peeling off.
For easy cleaning, one of the ideas posted was putting old nuts and bolts in there, then tying the tank in a caccoon of old clothes and putting it in the dryer using a non-heat cycle to tumble the tank. ...bill

I guess I missed that one. I thought I had read most everything there. I have heard of the nuts and bolts trick. I had a fella tell me awhile back that he put sandblasting sand in his, duct taped camping foam around the tank and threw it in the dryer. That sounds great, but man I wonder how paranoid I'd be about getting all the sand out. Compressed air and rinse and rinse???? Hmmmmm....now what's the missus gonna think about motorcycle parts in the dryer? She has already told me the oven is off limits for other stuff!!!

[rashd]

I would use the fluff setting...no heat...... and try a few pounds of roofing nails.
They have sharp points and edges to cut the rust. I never tried this,
but read it a few times. I would even consider packing the drum
kind of tight to minimize the tank(s) from flying all over, in there.

Sometimes crazy ideas work best. A couple of good cycles might yield a good result.
I hate tank sealers, never again.

[AFJ]

In prepping my WLA for spring riding, I decided I had better deal with the surface rust in my tanks. So far I've got them off and have steamed them out with piping hot water and and now they are airing out. The gas tank is worse off than the oil tank, but they aren't really too bad. I figured I'd better tie into them because I don't want to have to think about problems with rust while riding down the road! I've got a few thoughts about dealing with this rolling around in my head, but I thought I'd throw the question out there and see what folks on the forum have to say regarding the matter. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Wash the tank to remove all traces of gasoline or oil. Blow the tank dry with air.
Make up a mixture in the ratio of 1 pound of molasses to 1 gallon of warm water to fill the tank. In a few days to a week the red iron oxide (rust) will have turned to black iron oxide and after removing the molasses/water mixture flush the tank with water to remove all traces of black iron powder and molasses/water. Blow dry with warm air and then very quickly seal the tank with an epoxy resin coating or other type which will resist alcohol/gasoline mixtures.
The molasses/water mixture will not lift or remove any exterior paint.

AFJ

[yhprum]

You could also use a phosphoric acid type cleaner.
I understand they wont harm paint and will remove and treat rust by leaving a phosphate coating behind after it dries.
If you are in dairy country they have a product for cleaning pipes called milkstone remover. Tractor supply has it.

Good Luck!
Steve

[*JU]

Yamaha dealers have a 2 pc kit: tank cleaner and neutralizer that sells for $15.00ish that worked well for me.
JU

[c.o.]

Thanks a lot fellas! It's always nice to get different view points. I was wondering though AFJ how necessary it is to coat the tank after it's cleaned out? I was talking to an old timer awhile back and he said that he has always done one thing to prevent fuel breakdown and corrosion. In the fall he fills his tanks 1/2 or better with gas and just has to remind himself to go out every once in awhile to rock the bike back and forth to slosh the gas around. He said it's always done the trick for him, but that's just one man's opinion. I like to hear as many views as I can so that I can make informed decisions. Thanks again for the suggestions!

[Magic]

Yes Cory I was going ask why your tanks were empty in the first place...That's inviting trouble. Mine stay close to full and get periodic runs even in the dead of winter here in Pa. Once you pick your choice of cleaning them out.... I'd don't wanna say I'm an oldtimer cause I'm only 49 LOL almost....well But it's been my way too keeping the levels up. I also use Marvel Mystery Oil (Now you really think I'm old) in my fuel tanks year round according to the label (served in a shot glass LOL JK) It not only adds lubrication to the cylinders better and may as well help prevent some oxidation that could try and form in the tank. No I don't sell the stuff...just between that and the lead fuel additive along with a fuel Stabilzer my exhaust smells sweet LOL but everything works well year to year until normal maintenance is needed. Good luck on your choice as I know it's a tough and tedious job when you can't see everything inside you're working with. Keep Riding em, Merlin in Pa.

[c.o.]

Well Merlin to make a long story short, this bike spent the last four or five years sitting in a garage on the West Coast before I rescued it. The guy just had too many toys and the poor little 45 sat in the corner as an ornament........( with only enough fuel in it to cause problems) and the oil tank was drained as well. When I got it a lot of hardware was finger-tight and the carb was full of well cured shellac. The funny part is when I went to look at it the guy (after finding a six-volt with enough juice) fired it right up! It's been a little work, but I'm gettin' the bugs worked out. Thanks for the encouragement young fella! LOL

[AFJ]

Thanks a lot fellas! It's always nice to get different view points. I was wondering though AFJ how necessary it is to coat the tank after it's cleaned out? I was talking to an old timer awhile back and he said that he has always done one thing to prevent fuel breakdown and corrosion. In the fall he fills his tanks 1/2 or better with gas and just has to remind himself to go out every once in awhile to rock the bike back and forth to slosh the gas around. He said it's always done the trick for him, but that's just one man's opinion. I like to hear as many views as I can so that I can make informed decisions. Thanks again for the suggestions!

The Molasses/water treatment leaves bare metal and in a moist atmosphere it is possible to see rust beginning to form again within the hour. Best to oil fog any tank so treated and then keep oil or fuel in it. With bare metal (fenders, etc., etc.,) to be painted later I always prime coat it as soon as possible.

AFJ

[c.o.]

Gotcha AFJ! I think I'm going to try your treatment. I drove the 85 miles today to the nearest auto parts stores and came up with zilch!

[MGD]

The Molasses/water treatment leaves bare metal and in a moist atmosphere it is possible to see rust beginning to form again within the hour. Best to oil fog any tank so treated and then keep oil or fuel in it. With bare metal (fenders, etc., etc.,) to be painted later I always prime coat it as soon as possible.

AFJ

The molassas mixture really works. After useing this method wash with your favorite spray cleaner, mine is Spray Nine. Rinse with lots of water and dry in the sun. I've not had any rust appear after that, even on tanks or metal that has set for long periods . I also do not think I would coat the inside, with gasoline changeing formulas by the day. MOST tanks were not lined from new, some were tinned or plated, so it should not be necessary now, IMO.