'37 HD ammeter gauge mounting

[Omarttentmaker]

Anybody have a pic of the parts needed to mount the ammeter gauge to the dash? Because the studs on the gauge are electrical connections, I guess they must be insulated. The gauge I have has 2 sorta thick phenolic washers, but I can't see how they would prevent the gauge from twisting in situ and having one or both the the studs touch the dash. Is that a concern, or does the gauge automatically stay in place because of the standoffs that the underside of the gauge sits on?

[Jerry Wieland]

Anybody have a pic of the parts needed to mount the ammeter gauge to the dash? Because the studs on the gauge are electrical connections, I guess they must be insulated. The gauge I have has 2 sorta thick phenolic washers, but I can't see how they would prevent the gauge from twisting in situ and having one or both the the studs touch the dash. Is that a concern, or does the gauge automatically stay in place because of the standoffs that the underside of the gauge sits on?

The washers have a shoulder that protrudes into the hole thru the dash so that the gauge is mounted securely and cannot slide sideways and short out. Originally made out of bakelite I think. I think 4 are used - 2 per stud - one from each way. They are similar to those used on the wire terminal studs that insulate the bolts thru the frame by the seat post. Jerry

[Omarttentmaker]

You know, Jerry, that was my first thought, but the centerline distances between the holes in the dash and the gauge studs are not the same, like by about 1/32. I suppose I could make the shouldered washers sloppy enough that everything would fit. Just thinking, though, as to what holds the washers on top. The gauge sits on two "bumps" that were stamped into the sub dash, so there is a gap between the bottom of the gauge and the top of the sub dash. Maybe I'll just go with two shouldered washers on the bottom that stick up through the sub dash holes.

[Jerry Wieland]

You know, Jerry, that was my first thought, but the centerline distances between the holes in the dash and the gauge studs are not the same, like by about 1/32. I suppose I could make the shouldered washers sloppy enough that everything would fit. Just thinking, though, as to what holds the washers on top. The gauge sits on two "bumps" that were stamped into the sub dash, so there is a gap between the bottom of the gauge and the top of the sub dash. Maybe I'll just go with two shouldered washers on the bottom that stick up through the sub dash holes.

I'll try and have a look at my dash. Not sure I can get in the shed with the snow however. Jerry

[Omarttentmaker]

Thanks to both of you for the insight. Still working on a solution.

[bobphd]

There is a slight difference in the gauge stud centers as Badger34 stated. I ran into the same issue with the repop dash base and gauge for my 36. I simply took a carbide bur on a dreml and slightly oblonged the holes in the dash base and used plastic top hat type insulating washers like Jerry explained. It was easy and has worked very well. I would not recommend doing this to original parts but I use what I have or can afford and make it work.
Bob

[bobphd]

The parts book does not have a clear picture of the insulating washers but shows only a total of 2 used. The modern insulating washers that are available probably work much better than the original type and probably won’t cost much more than the 5 cents the originals were in 1941.
Bob

[Steve Slocombe]

The 1935/6 VLs used the same ammeter but there were undocumented changes. First problem is that the white faced ammeter is upside down compared to the bar and shield style, so the ground is on the right instead of the left and the late VL wiring diagram is incorrect. Around this time Harley ran a separate ground wire from the ammeter to the frame, instead of grounding through the dash base to the forks, perhaps because of incorrect factory or customer wiring. Usually the right VL dash base ammeter hole is larger, to allow for insulation of the live terminal, but when using the white ammeter you have to open out the left mounting hole which is now the live one. Then Harley used the same ammeter on the early knucks and perhaps changed the stud pitch as well. A replacement ammeter kit was produced for a while to fit both models, with a spacer ring and maybe different pitch studs, plus (speculation) reversing the terminals? I've certainly had white ammeters too tall for the VL dash and requiring the chromed spacer ring. A small length of thin wall rubber or neoprene tubing is usually enough to insulate the live ammeter terminal from the dash base.

[ronniecox]

i have some of the bakelite insulators NOS for the 36-37 gauges

[Chris Haynes]

Stan at Vintage Rust restores ammeters. He can also install the correct studs you need.