Need Help Removing handlebar cap on a 49 servi

[jssurfer]

can someone read this? i needed a way to free the handlebar cap on a 49 servi Iv tried wd40 n time, torch n tap, impact screwdrivers more wd40 n time whats a wrench to do? where on this site can I ask this and get a reply........ craze 39 servi 49 servi 75 glide

[T. Cotten]

can someone read this? i needed a way to free the handlebar cap on a 49 servi Iv tried wd40 n time, torch n tap, impact screwdrivers more wd40 n time whats a wrench to do? where on this site can I ask this and get a reply........ craze 39 servi 49 servi 75 glide

Do you mean the riser 'cap', Jss?

It normally was held by studs with hexes in the middle (56167-49). If you have screwdriver slots, you might as well get out your grinder.

Good luck!

....Cotten

[41craig]

Or, do you mean the handlebar end nut on the ends of your springer handlebars ?

Craig

[Rubone]

Use a better penetrant, WD-40 is one of the poorer out there. The fine threads often require a shock to break loose. An air impact with a "drag link" socket will often do it. Be sure to flood the inside of the bar to help. And heat is good. Is the grip off?

[T. Cotten]

The Spare Parts catalog, Folks,...

Shows a whole new handlebar assembly for 1949, with no 'end nuts'.

Can you tell us more about your assembly, Jssurfer?

....Cotten

[ihrescue]

Use a better penetrant, WD-40 is one of the poorer out there. The fine threads often require a shock to break loose. An air impact with a "drag link" socket will often do it. Be sure to flood the inside of the bar to help. And heat is good. Is the grip off?

Well I had one of those blunders that make you lose content. Don't do as I did and hit the restore button before you copy the text you just got done typing. Guess how I know?

Anyway - good suggestion by Robbie - WD 40 is better than nothing. I have had good performance from Kroil which can be found on-line. It can appear pricey but it works well from my experience and it lasts a long time. I use it for cologne as well so it serves double duty in a pinch. I am thinking that before you use anymore penetrating oil try to clean out any accessible edges of mating or joining surfaces to get rid of any corrosion that might clock the oil from getting to the stuck areas. Sometimes I think corrosion can exclude the oil so if you can clean it out of the crack you are making progress, heck it could be this corrosion that has welded the two surfaces together and won't let you budge the cap. All Robbie's suggestion of an air impact wit the drag link socket is a good idea. It sounds like you were using one of the hand and hammer impacts with a similar bit to the drag link socket. Also if you have an air hammer and a blunt time like a drift pin, you could have that beat some violent vibrations into the cap and maybe break loose what is seizing it in the bore. Did I mention applying ice and heat to the cap to maybe facilitate expansion and contraction repeatedly and applying Kroil or such over days. Be patient. Did someone say the cap has a slotted screw head like removal process and fine threads? It sure helps to understand what you are dealing with. There is kind of a new innovation that mates an air hammer and drag link socket approach with a weed handle on the shaft to allow you to put turn pressure on the radius of the bit so that if the percussion helps to slightly allow some movement, the handle helps it in that direction. You could duplicate this using some vice grips if you don't have the actual bonfire part. Heck you could also weld an appendage to the drag link socket shaft and make it a DIY project. I think it would be worth it to but a Harbor Freight Air Hammer or air impact and Drag Link sock for a fairly inexpensive approach if you don't have either.

Mike Love