Any one had a chance to try the Caswell kits for nickle or cad?
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Caswell plating experience?
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I was told at a meet by a guy with a gorgeous JD that he spent over $5,000 on the nickle, and that he didn't run the bike because it would turn brown on the cylinders and other engine parts. I do plan to ride mine. What is your experience with the nickle on hot parts? THX
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I bought the tripple chrome system. Please buy the manuel up front. Nickle is not too hard but Caswell never tells you up front all the extra stuff you will need beside their kits. For me it was in excess of $200.00 and the results **** as does their customer service. They ( in the online help forum) treated me like a moron who did not know S--T from shineola. I still have all their worthless stuff taking up room in my shop. But perhaps I am too bitter. Buy the manual first, then make the call.
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You can spec the thickness you require to your industrial plater for flat nickel (straight dip). This is calculated based on time submerged. Too thick can be bad also. Too thin and some bad prep. I've seen it crack/peel.
Electo- process is much brighter. Nickel builds up around outer edge of fin and not enough in deep recess.
I was quoted somewhere around 200 for my barrels. In the back door and would have to wait for a run. I ended up using flat aluminum VHT (high heat) paint as a temporary measure, looks OK. Painted in combination with oven pre & post heat, two coats. I'm still experimenting with a few things and have another set that would go also. If the nickel cracks from thermal expansion/contraction (over time) in deep recesses of your barrel fins. I've seen guys clean crack and seal it with some simular colored paint. Flat nickel has a unique look and color cast/reflection that is not easily duplicated. The real thing looks great.
Sending it out saves alot of grief and mess. This is very toxic stuff. You have to newtralize it to dispose. Just look around your industrial platers warehouse. Welcome to he...ll! Let them deal with it and make your life simple.
We have a local guy that does the old original toxic Cadnium process in his house. So we all give our stuff to him. Don't be smok'in or lick'in your fingers after handleing this stuff.
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You can spec the thickness you require to your industrial plater for flat nickel (straight dip). This is calculated based on time submerged. Too thick can be bad also. Too thin and some bad prep. I've seen it crack/peel.
Electo- process is much brighter. Nickel builds up around outer edge of fin and not enough in deep recess.
I was quoted somewhere around 200 for my barrels. In the back door and would have to wait for a run. I ended up using flat aluminum VHT (high heat) paint as a temporary measure, looks OK. Painted in combination with oven pre & post heat, two coats. I'm still experimenting with a few things and have another set that would go also. If the nickel cracks from thermal expansion/contraction (over time) in deep recesses of your barrel fins. I've seen guys clean crack and seal it with some simular colored paint. Flat nickel has a unique look and color cast/reflection that is not easily duplicated. The real thing looks great.
Sending it out saves alot of grief and mess. This is very toxic stuff. You have to newtralize it to dispose. Just look around your industrial platers warehouse. Welcome to he...ll! Let them deal with it and make your life simple.
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I've been using " Classic Plating" in MI. Very reasonable on cost. They do electroless nickel. I've just had small pieces done like carb bodies, etc. I know other people that have used them for JD and Indian cylinders on running bikes with no complaints. Every time I've been in there I saw vintage bike jugs and misc. parts on the shelf waiting to be nickeled. If you want a dull nickel just tell them and they do it when their solution is needing to be renewed, and it comes out looking like the original dull nickel. I think I paid less than $50 for a couple carb bodies, a couple sets of spoke nipples and a few misc. pieces. I clean and glass bead my own stuff before I bring it to them. This saves alot on cost, and they say the glass beading gives a duller finish as opposed to wire brushing. Great people to deal with and a family owned business that take pride in their work.
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Copy Cad
I have been using a Caswell Copy Cad kit on my nuts, bolts and misc. pieces for a '66 Bonneville and I am very pleased with the results. I glass bead blast each part before re plating. It is easy to do. I can't yet speak to the durability of this finish, but I am pleased with results so far. I am considering the new Reprochrome system, but that is a lot more money and more of a gamble for me. Still doing my homework before pulling the trigger on that one.
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Caswell plating
I bought their bright Nickle plating set and I am most pleased with it. I am allso pleased with Caswells service. I hadn used my kit for long when one of the heaters went fu#¤%ed. Gave them a call and told them it stopped working after so little use. They said no problem, throw the old we will send you a new one, no charge no nothing. Was in my post box here in Norway short after.
I Nickle plated all smaller parts on my Henderson with this kit.
I`m going to buy the copy Cad kit too.
Sverre
http://AmericanMotorcyclesNorway.blogspot.comAnd then there is the idea that we are here on earth to get a certain amount of things done before we die.
This is a great theory.
If it is true, I am so far behind that I will never die...
AMCA-3489
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I’ve had great experiences using Caswell’s copy cad system. It is a time consuming operation figuring out all the different area sizes for each nut and bolt so that you can determine the amperage that will be needed to plate them,but after awhile you'll have a list to refer to because there really aren't that many differant size bolts on a bike. It can be tedious but worth the effort in the end.
Don’t plan on opening a plating shop with one of these kits. They are more for the hobbyist and those who have the time and patience to learn a new trade. It sure isn’t plug and play. Plan on a learning curve. -Steve------------
Steve
AMCA #7300
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I too want to run mine. Can anyone comment on the cylinders etc turning brown?
Documenting some proven processes and making them available in the library could really help new members with their restorations.
Thanks in advance,_____________________________________________
D.J. Knott
AMCA #10930
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