Problem with S & S Super E "Shorty" Carburetor on '67 FLH

[exeric]

Thank you for telling us your conclusion. I'm not a good diagnostician (i.e. bad mechanic) so it is always enlightening for me to hear about motor problems that are driving other people crazy. I'm glad you got your bike running well.

[T. Cotten]

Well I'm happy to report I've solved the problem. Remember when I said I thought the valve train clatter was getting progressively worse during the ride when this problem hit. Today when I took the front exhaust push rod cover off the push rod fell right out. And the lock nut was loose. I determined I have solid lifters, instead of the stock hydraulics. I adjusted all the push rods. It fired right up and is purring like a kitten. I've learned a lot from this experience. And the carburetor and ignition work and manifold o-rings isn't wasted. I've learned from it and know where these key items stand now. Thanks to all who replied to this thread. The input is very valuable, for now, and in the future. Thanks again!

That's good news, James!

So your test ride was fun?

....Cotten

[jamesgraulty]

That's good news, James!

So your test ride was fun?

....Cotten

Absolutely! And through my carburetor education the idling and throttle response is better than before. And don't think your vacuum leak advice fell on deaf ears. I get it, and it may come in very handy some day. I appreciate your interest and input. Thanks again!

[AFJ]

Well I'm happy to report I've solved the problem. Remember when I said I thought the valve train clatter was getting progressively worse during the ride when this problem hit. Today when I took the front exhaust push rod cover off the push rod fell right out. And the lock nut was loose. I determined I have solid lifters, instead of the stock hydraulics. I adjusted all the push rods. It fired right up and is purring like a kitten. I've learned a lot from this experience. And the carburetor and ignition work and manifold o-rings isn't wasted. I've learned from it and know where these key items stand now. Thanks to all who replied to this thread. The input is very valuable, for now, and in the future. Thanks again!

Glad to hear you have solved the problem. (caused by the DPO - dreaded previous owner - who converted to solid lifters?) Are you now setting the valves according to the early model values of 1 thou on the inlets and 2 thou on the exhausts - cold?
I might suggest a re-check after 50 miles or so to see if the lock nuts really lock.
Good riding!
AFJ

[T. Cotten]

.. Are you now setting the valves according to the early model values of 1 thou on the inlets and 2 thou on the exhausts - cold?
...

I hope not.

....Cotten

[jamesgraulty]

I set them cold, with the push rod at it's lowest point of travel. First loosened the adjuster to get some shake in the rod, then turned the adjuster to remove all movement, but still being able to spin the rod with thumb and forefinger. Then tightened lock nuts, being careful not to over tighten. I will definitely check the locknuts after a few miles. Thanks for that suggestion AJF.

[T. Cotten]

Sounds about right, James!

Do you have steel or aluminum pushrods?

....Cotten

[jamesgraulty]

Sounds about right, James!

Do you have steel or aluminum pushrods?

....Cotten

Pretty sure aluminum..

[T. Cotten]

James!

Because of the different thermal expansion, aluminum rods like to be a lot tighter than steel.

(My 86" Pan liked them where I had to put a rag on my fingers to turn them; Otherwise, they clattered when *warm*.)

The quality of aftermarket "kits" varied enormously over the years, so if your adjustments do not seem to last, please inspect all bearing surfaces for decent contact. And if there are 'idiot springs' beneath the slugs replacing the hydraulic units, put them in your spring stash.

....Cotten

[jamesgraulty]

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on all this. No "idiot springs".