6 Volt Shorai LFX18-BS06 Battery Life?

[Skirted]

I converted to electronic regulator 5 years ago and bought a Shorai LFX18 BS06 Lithium Iron battery at same time. The battery has never been on a charger in 5 years and thousands of miles. Sits all winter with no fretting about charging or using a battery tender. Wonderful.
After this long I'm starting to think when is a good time to replace as a preventive measure? I heard there may be no warning when it decides to die.

I guess I could buy a spare and keep it with me but am wondering what experience others have who use this battery with an electronic regulator?

[pisten-bully]

Can't help you Jason! I sold my Shorai after the negative terminal broke off on the first one I had and left me to hitch hike home one evening. They replaced it under warranty, but by then I had switched back to lead acid. They were good about warranty, it was over a year old when the terminal broke off!

But I'd love to hear how long others have kept them.

[gharper]

Jason,

I've been using the Shorai batteries for a few years now, and I like them very much. I have had 2 failures, both my fault, in essence. I've let a buddy ride my 39 knuck a few times, (he is used to his 101) and on two occasions, he stalled the bike when stopping and forgot to shut off the ignition. Battery eventually drained and so I tried to recharge them with a standard battery charger. Result, cooked battery!

Attached is a long email from Shorai regarding max safe voltage input and resting low battery voltage. I asked them what is the absolute maximum input voltage, as I'm tweekiing a 12 volt regulator for my 24 Chief Cannonball rig that was pushing 15.1 volts, too high. (Yes, 12 volts so the wife can have a heated vest and watch TV in the sidecar!)

To summarize their response, these batteries are VERY sensitive to maximum input voltage and resting discharge voltage.. As long as the battery voltage remains between these two numbers, they will last for a long time. Over and undercharging will kill them, that's why a good voltage regulator is critical. If you do need to charge them with a charger, I would either buy the Shorai battery charger, or attach a volt meter to the battery and watch it VERY closely if using any other charger, DON'T exceed the max input voltage! Generally speaking, that would be 6.43-7.20 volts for 6 volt systems and 12.86-14.4 volts for 12 volt systems



Here is the text from Shorai:

I am not incredibly knowledgeable in the solid state regulator department but I do handle warranties and tech so I am around 6V issues occasionally.


To answer your questions:


6V:

6.43V is the floor, if it goes below this (other than immediately after starter load), it can cause damage to the battery.

6.55V is as low as we’d like for an idle set point (with headlight on)

6.65V or higher is preferable at idle.

At normal operating rpms, (where the customer would consider to be cruising along) 6.8V to 7.2V is preferable.

Although the ceiling is 7.6V, the battery does tend to suffer heat stress when running above 7.4V



12V:

Damage threshold: 12.86V

Lowest at idle, with accessories on (vests, lights, gps): 13.1V

Ideal idle voltage: at least 13.3V

Output at 2000 rpm, or where the customer spends the most time in the operating range: 13.6V to 14.4V

14.6V does offer enhanced cell saturation for increased performance and balancing.

14.8V heat stress is possible from over voltage

15.2V is ceiling. Especially if going from very low (multiple starts, left key on or bike sat for a while, unused) and then is exposed to 15.2V, the extreme changes are most problematic.



The 15.1V is pretty high and could cause a failure. We have obviously tested them higher, but if you had the ability to alter the set point, or add a higher load to counter it, I would.




See below… Feel free to correct anything, but this is what I usually send to my 6V customers who need help with regulators. That photo is from a customer’s Indian but he did have issues with our batteries due to not having a solid state. I believe he has since changed that.



Shorai Lithium Batteries in Vintage Motorcycles


Are you tired of going through batteries every 6 months? Or having your motorcycle’s voltage output control when you can and cannot turn on your headlight? Do you have to avoid your headlight at idle situations and turn off your headlight at higher rpms to keep it from burning out your battery? Whether 6V or 12V, or 6V to 12V conversion, the main issue with running lithium starter batteries in vintage motorcycles is the lack of a solid state regulator. Lithium batteries require specific voltage parameters and are more likely to become damaged when the charging system is not within these ranges. Even lead acid batteries experience a hard life and short lifespan with electrical generators such as the third-brush types. Average voltages for 6V Third-brush generators can range from a couple volts up to 8.25V! More than enough to damage your battery.



Your vintage motorcycle’s charging system components have probably already been updated or at least replaced at one point in its life. If not, this should be your first step. Lead acid batteries may be able to take the abuse without catastrophic failure, but they, too, will fade and fail faster than if your charging system were dialed in to control the voltage output. Spending the money now to update your system will save you money later, and most importantly, not leave you stranded and having to call a tow truck.





Generator Types: Which Do You Have?



· Third-Brush Dynamo: Such as the Autolite 3-brush GAS model (6V). This is the least compatible generator with lithium batteries. It is advised to convert to a solid state regulator regardless if you are going to go with lithium, AGM or stay with lead acid. There are professionals who will remove your third brush/cutout relay and add the solid state regulator. This is highly recommended! The Shorai LFX 6V models have a recommended ceiling of 7.6V, although ideally it would be closer to 7.2V to avoid damage. With the rebuild, voltage output max is about 7.25V, which is just enough to allow the motorcycle to truly saturate the cells of a lithium battery and fully charge it! The peak amperage is about 12A which is perfect for our FX18A2 or L2-BS06 6V batteries.

· Two Brush Dynamo: Two-brush generators replaced the Third-brush systems in the late 1950’s. The Two-brush generator uses a regulator instead of a cutout relay. These generators can be used with lithium batteries as long as a solid state regulator can control the output to the necessary specs.

· Magnetos: The benefit of a magneto is that it can run your motorcycle without a battery, but still requires a battery to start the motor if you have e-start conversion. Magnetos were seen in pre-1969 kickstart Harley-Davidsons and are used today in customs with kick-only magnetos. However, modern magnetos (such as Morris Magneto) are much easier to kick today than models of yesteryear! There are important things to consider when using a lithium battery for electric starting and, of coursre, the recharging of the battery from the magneto system.

· Modern Generators are the most dependable and easily controllable for the voltage output. It is strongly reomcmnd that you convertm, OR modify/rebuild the Third Brish Dynamo with the use of One such service is by Indian Frank, (Frank Vandevelde) who can rebuild, repair and convert magnetos and generators) Also see Gene Harper at: http://www.splitdorfreg.com/ for parts and resources: http://www.splitdorfreg.com/blancard/Resources.html



Ideally, for lithium batteries, the charging system voltage output should be:



· Idle (minimum) voltage output: No less than 13.1V although 13.3V is preferable. (6V: 6.55V minimum, 6.65V preferably)

· 2,000 rpm range, or wherever you are likely to spend morst of your time riding at a cruising speed: 13.6V to 14.4V is ideal (6V: 6.8V to 7.2V)

· Max voltage: 15.2V, damage will occur above these voltages. (6V: 7.6V)







Kind Regards,

Marianne Guarena

Customer Service & Warranty Manager

cid:9AC09BA4-3550-42AA-A22A-873393B6D7C8

[pan620]

Thanks that is very helpful information.

[Skirted]

Thanks for the detailed info Gene. Definitely worth printing for later reference. I'll probably risk running my battery for another year. I occasionally check the voltage control of your regulator. Always 7.2 exactly whether idling or higher RPM. I have the battery well padded/isolated on all sides in the box. The system has been so reliable and maintenance free I feel like I'm neglecting it by not fussing over it.

[Jim]

The system has been so reliable and maintenance free I feel like I'm neglecting it by not fussing over it.

Just like a carburetor... it has screws... MUST turn screws... not sure why... but a little twist won't hurt. HAHA!!