Gas Tank Preparation

[FlatheadFrank]

I have a set of tanks for my VL that I would like to have prepped and ready for the paint shop.

Can anyone recommend someone who could tear the tanks down and get them ready to be relined and ready for paint.

This is all new to me...so any information would be welcome.

Thanks

[Rollo]

Be careful who you choose as those tanks are soldered and basically need to be completely taken apart and re-soldered or you will be chasing leaks for months. Talk to Rat at Harbor Vintage or Tom Feeser at Replicant Metals about them. Better yet maybe a set of Tom's VL tanks that are welded if you are going to ride it. Been down this road with VL and Indian tanks so good luck!

Tom (Rollo) Hardy
AMCA #12766

[exeric]

Tom Hardy gave good advice. VL tanks are very complex with many critical solder joints. Go with Tom Feeser's welded VL tank. A good friend of mine had your experience with his '34 VL and like Tom said, he chased leaks, and ruined a nice paint job, with decals before he ordered a set of Replicant tanks. Having said all of that; have you pressure tested your original tanks in a water tank to see if they do leak?

[FlatheadFrank]

Tom,

Thanks very much for the advice. I have talked to both of them (on other topics)...so I'll touch base with them again.

Thanks
Foster

[FlatheadFrank]

Eric,

Thanks for the feedback. No, I have not pressure tested them...that might be one of my next steps.

I was told that its beneficial to have the tanks interiors etched and then lined with a product called "Kreem" Is that something that I should consider?

Thanks
Foster

[exeric]

I use Red Kote. Kreem is Krap. Seriously, don't use Kreem; it tends to get brittle, and crack and I don't know how well it can handle modern fuels. Perhaps Kreem has been improved but I'll never use it again. I have lined quite a few tanks with Red Kote, and never had a problem with the product.

As for etching the inside of the tank, I don't recommend that unless the inside is very rusty. H-D tanks from the VL and earlier era were tin plated and acid will remove that, hence accelerating the chance for rust. Particularly with modern alcohol laced fuel. If you have to use Red Kote, they recommend removing the loose rust then thoroughly sloshing the tank with MEK, or acetone to remove any oils, or contaminants. Apparently light rust is not a problem with Red Kote.