Spring restoration... a few tips and photos

[DanM]

Hey Pierce:

Can you tell us a little about the Imron? Is it as tough as they say for chips? What did you prime with? Where do you get it? What do you clean the gun woth? do you have air mask, or use a respirator? THX!

[sirhrmechanic]

Imron is very, very durable. But you need a space suit or you will end up drooling on yourself and forgetting your own name very quickly. It's available at any DuPont paint store, but not all will sell to non-shops because of the risks involved in shooting it.

It is excellent for frames, forks, etc. It must be applied over Corlar, epoxy primer. Also very dangerous if inhaled. Both Spray wonderfully. Both can be brushed if you use a very soft brush and work on your technique. I've done some amazing brush work with Imron. Spacesuit comment also applies. Cleans with regular gun clearer/lacquer thinner. Most bodyshops can shoot it for you, but many refuse due to safety.

As you mention, very tough stuff. Also heat resistant. We use on cylinder blocks w. no issues. But can't say for sure about air-cooled/fins. On the down-side, it retains a 'wet' look that is not exactly right for vintage frames, etc. which I think generally used a stove enamel that had much less shine. But it is very tough stuff. It can be mixed up in any color. It can be used for tanks/fenders, etc. But I generally just use for components. Sheetmetal, I use Chroma base/Chroma Clear, though I rarely shoot tin. I leave that to bodywork experts because I don't have an eye for it and I hate doing bodywork. Not my thing. And if doing 'single stage' I also like Chroma Premiere. That is not to 'put down' paints from other makers. We just shoot DuPont because we always shot DuPont. Lots of other good systems out there. It just gets expensive to switch.

Cheers,

Sirhr

[bobdo]

So, that's why I drool.

Bill or was it Bob?