tank unsolderer person needed

[harleytoprock]

HI, I'm looking for someone who is good at unsoldering and removing the backs from gas tanks like on Harley JD and Vl. Can I get any recommendations? Thanks for your kind help. John

[Mike L]

Make sure the fumes are gone which I'm sure you already know. I use a propane torch to disassemble and keep working a small screw driver around the seam letting the solder cool as you go around to keep it from sealling back together. There was an article on the a few years back in the AMCA Mag on restoring these. All assembly MUST be done with a 200 watt soldering iron (no torch) and the article recommended POR 15 for a sealer which I used the first time, but it started flaking in less than two months. I don't think it liked the new solder. It' good for old rusty tanks but not clean fresh solder. It needs the porosity to adhere to. I went to Caswell's epoxy sealer. It held for over two years and was still working good even where my tank got smash and split the solder seam. When I took my tank apart for the dent repair, it was all intact except where the heat got to it from disassemlby.
Mike L.

[Kojack]

I once talked to a guy that does all types of gas tank repairs for a living. He says that he bakes all the tanks for about two hours before he takes an open flame to them. He stressed that he checks them with a special "sniffer" as he works on them. Claims he's never had a problem with build up of flammable fumes after baking them though. Solder starts melting at about 350 degrees so you might be able to get them hot enough in an electric oven to take them apart. I wouldn't try a gas oven. Like Mike, I also used a torch to take them apart once. I hooked up an air hose to the fuel outlet and kept a light, steady flow of fresh air moving through them as I worked to prevent build up of fumes. I've worked with a lot of old experienced welders over the years who claim that there is no absolutely safe way to use an open flame on a gas tank. I suspect they're right.

[AdminGuy]

In that article George Yarocki talked about hot water and detergent, multiple rinses to pretreat. I also found taking them apart surpriseingly easy. Maybe trace mount bracket pattern first.

I still have to shrink back the metal on one of mine. It was knocked out from the inside before, and side was bashed in. I've been looking at it so long now- I've named the flippin thing Mr. Potato head. Must get on that.

It was interesting to see the quality of soldering done to spigots on inside. Nothing to write home about. You can make some big improvements.

I also was wondering about the coating. Thanks! I think I'll just skip the modern coating.

[rudy]

tank guy

so who is a good goto guy? any recommendations? my son and I both need a set worked on.Thanks

[INLINE4NUT]

try HPCycle in Berwick Maine the felllow did it for a living for the U.S. Naval Shipyard in Portsmouth NH for a loooooong time
If this is OK Ill list his # 207-3845329,his name is Harvey Paul

[scoop]

I had my VL tanks redone by Jack Hentges in PA. He took them apart, installed new cap fittings and fuel outlets, fixed holes, and resoldered . They turned out beautiful and are working great. His number is 724-899-4047.

[rudy]

Thanks guys, should get us started.