Knucklehead Bullneck Frame, Trade For 1941 to 1945 Frame

[JC Hixon]

I recently purchased a bullneck frame for my 1945 E project. The neck has been raked and plates welded on but it was never finished. The sidecar loops and all brackets are intact with the exception of the toolbox mount which is missing. The bottom frame tubes on each side of the engine cases have the usual curb damage but the frame is straight. I'd be interested in trading for a '41 to '45 factory frame, not interested in selling outright. Can send photos if interested. -Jim, NE OH

[Chris Haynes]

Wasco Frame can make it look like new which would greatly increase its value.

[JC Hixon]

Photos

I took some photos of the frame today.

Knuckle Frame.jpgKnuckle Frame 7.jpgKnuckle Frame 2.jpgKnuckle Frame 3.jpgKnuckle Frame 10.jpg

[Jerry Wieland]

Could you post a picture of the bottom of the neck? Thanks Jerry

I took some photos of the frame today.

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[JC Hixon]

Bottom of Neck

Could you post a picture of the bottom of the neck? Thanks Jerry

Here ya go-

[Roderick]

Just a thought but the majority of that frame looks good. Sidecar loops are there which is great. Frame rails need replacing and you can buy those. Cannot see the axle plates clearly but they look like they need a bit of work. With the exception of the neck your casting numbers look intact. I have always thought a frames value increased with good casting numbers and it looks like you have them. I am certainly no expert but maybe (carefully) cut those plates off the neck and see whats going on under there. If there is still original metal under those plates that goes a long ways towards making it good again plus it will show the next owner what they are dealing with. That is a very valuable frame and one option might be to restore it and sell it and put $ towards the frame you want. My two cents. Thx, Rod

[Jerry Wieland]

JC I do not think your frame is a bullneck. Cut the plates off it (carefully) and see but from the bottom it is not. You might already have the frame you are looking for. Jerry

I recently purchased a bullneck frame for my 1945 E project. The neck has been raked and plates welded on but it was never finished. The sidecar loops and all brackets are intact with the exception of the toolbox mount which is missing. The bottom frame tubes on each side of the engine cases have the usual curb damage but the frame is straight. I'd be interested in trading for a '41 to '45 factory frame, not interested in selling outright. Can send photos if interested. -Jim, NE OH

[JC Hixon]

Bullneck

JC I do not think your frame is a bullneck. Cut the plates off it (carefully) and see but from the bottom it is not. You might already have the frame you are looking for. Jerry

Thanks for the advise Rod & Jerry. I was taking the word of a man who does frame repair in my area who said it's a bullneck. I'm going to use a cutoff wheel and carefully remove the plates from the neck. Then I'll do more research.

[Chris Haynes]

The frame appears to be a brazed frame. Bullnecks are welded. Pre october 1944 are brazed.

[Rubone]

This is the underside of a Bullneck frame.

[JC Hixon]

Neck

This is the underside of a Bullneck frame.

Thanks Robbie. Since the bearing cups are still in the neck, it's difficult to see in the photo but my frame does appear to be a bullneck.

I tried soaking the bearing cups and driving them out with a hammer and punch but they didn't budge. I'd like to find a puller to prevent damaging them during removal. I might try to make one by welding some nuts to 2 short pieces of tubing, slit the tubing and expand the slitted sections so they'll spread out after driving them through the holes in the bearing cups. I can then use 2 bolts to spread them apart. Whichever cup remains in the frame I can remove with my hydraulic press.

[Chris Haynes]

Use a large drift punch and a big hammer.

[Lonnie]

Use a large drift punch and a big hammer.

Ditto on what Chris said, I use a big brass bar for my punch. Unless the cups were welded in, which I have seen, they will come out. Oh, and watch your fingers.

[46EL]

Most penetrating oils will take forever to get into a real tight space. Make a rubber plug for the cup and lightly heat the FRAME with a propane torch around the neck cup. Add your penetrating oil from the necks other open hole and let cool. That makes the oil want to enter the rusted area like flux does with solder. Do this over and over for a few days. Then place the frame either in your yard on a lawn or on a heavy moving blanket. When you hit the cup have someone sit on the frame as that will deaden the blow and keep the energy from that blow traveling down to a concrete floor causing massive vibration through the entire frame. That extreme vibration can cause a brazed frame to come apart. Or a welded frame from breaking a tube in a stressed area that you are not aware of on a frame that might be slightly bent. I know this from experience that only cost me grief and money. Just wacking the crap out of a 70 year old frame with a large hammer without any forethought is asking for trouble. Frames crack from somewhat normal use yet alone abuse. And when you do hit the inside lip of the neck cup rotate tour blows in a circle a little at a time. Don't just try to hit it extremely hard only once or twice thinking that is all it will take. Once the cup separates from the frame a little bit add some heat and oil between the cup and frame neck also. 46EL

[Jerry Wieland]

I built an expandable collet out of a junk exhaust pipe expander and use it with my big slide hammer - with a little heat - never fails and does not gurrrrr up the bottom of the cup. Jerry