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Thread: Panhead Rocker Felt Pad - Glue?

  1. #1

    Default Panhead Rocker Felt Pad - Glue?

    Hi Guys - 48 Panhead covers - chromed

    I have seen mention of 3M weathershield adhesive being used but there are few of these, it looks like the appropriate one would be 8008 - can anyone clarify or recommend another adhesive that has proven successful?

    Thanks

    Greg

  2. #2
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    A couple of decades ago, Greg,

    I actually called the MOCO and asked.

    3M Industrial adhesive #800 was suggested, which I believe was the OEM case sealant at that time.
    The original was a heavy tar-like adhesive, which I have also observed inside of '63-'65 tanks, and obviously fuel proof.

    If your covers pinch the felt upon the rocker stud nuts, it might be redundant, and just another lit fuse: Beware also of modern felts that can deteriorate, particularly if fuel leaks past your petcock into the motor.

    Another candidate would be Permatex's "The Right Stuff", but I would suggest any adhesive be used sparingly, as you never know what the next summer-blend P4gas will be like.

    ....Cotten
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  3. #3
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    I went through this several years ago when trying to decide the same thing on a set of aluminum covers, I think the results would be the same on your chromed covers as long as they were scuffed and clean. For each test I used a piece of aluminum plate scuffed and then cleaned with acetone, then adhered a piece of felt per the instructions on each glue sample. After the recommended drying time for each adhesive, I then soaked the aluminum plate in a pan of 50 wt engine oil. I tried Devcon WeldIT All purpose Adhesive, 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive #08002, Weldwood Original Contact Cement, and Original Gorilla Glue. The Gorilla Glue was the only one that could not be removed with a putty knife after my oil soaking. The other 3 were easily removed, the Gorilla Glue couldn't be scraped off. I also made a block with three steps on it to put even pressure throughout the entire cover with a weight on it throughout the drying process when actually putting the felt in the cover. A friend of mine just used a flat plate and a paint paddle for each step to insure even pressure during drying. Good luck.
    Last edited by BigLakeBob; 03-30-2020 at 06:16 PM. Reason: spelling
    Bob Rice #6738

  4. #4

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    Thanks Bob and Tom

    The Gorilla glue spec is not above 100 degrees C so I'm not sure about that one. The '800' and 'right stuff' specs look fine but the virus is affecting deliveries now.

    I also had feedback from the Henkel tech dept (Loctite) who recommended Loctite 5990, which I have in the shed so I'll try that tomorrow.

    Note for Tom - On the sealant for the head nipples and the manifold flange/nuts, I used the recommended Loctite products; 648 and 5990 (respectively) and to seal the crankcases I used Loctite 5188. All have done the job as far as testing was concerned but I can't vouch for them for long and hard usage yet.

    Thanks again

    Greg

  5. #5
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    You confuse me with "the manifold flange/nuts", Greg!

    The flange takes a gasket, and quality modern gaskets have an impregnated sealer-adhesive, that adding anything else defeats.
    (As JAMES told me...)

    Nuts shouldn't need a sealer.
    (A greasy lube is good though...)

    Sorry I don't know all of the Loctite numbers, but I do know that if they taste like saccharin, P4gas can eat 'em.

    ....Cotten
    PS: Original Gorilla Glue seems to work well to lock carb floats to the lever.
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-30-2020 at 06:59 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  6. #6

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    Sorry Tom, I meant 'intake nipple lock screw' and 'inlet packing bushing', actually the recommendation for the felt gasket was loctite 5980 which has better adhesive capability - see imageLoctite.jpg

    Greg
    Last edited by harleygreg; 03-31-2020 at 03:42 AM.

  7. #7
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    I would discourage any adhesive upon the nuts and 'packing bushings', Greg!

    You may wish to take it apart some day.

    And the horrible -52 lock screw design is to be avoided if you can.

    ....Cotten
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-31-2020 at 09:35 AM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

  8. #8

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    Hi Tom

    Itís ok, the inlet one is just a sealant, not an adhesive, it sets into a flexible rubbery like seal that peels off

    Greg

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    Quote Originally Posted by harleygreg View Post
    Hi Tom

    It’s ok, the inlet one is just a sealant, not an adhesive, it sets into a flexible rubbery like seal that peels off

    Greg
    Why bother, Greg?

    What's the point if you are going to break the seal with prudent re-torques?

    Please remember the threads do not seal anything; The "packings" do.

    If they need a goober, they are not doing their job, and it becomes a lit fuse if (when) the fuel eats the bandaid.

    ....Cotten
    PS: When heavily goober'd assemblies came to me as failures, guess what I used to soak it off with. (Its half-priced now.)
    PPS: Stay healthy, Everyone!
    Last edited by T. Cotten; 03-31-2020 at 06:41 PM.
    AMCA #776
    Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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