Went with Testors red, and added 5 drops of black to make it just a little darker. I used the syringe becasue my hands aren't steady enough for a brush.
It worked really well, just have to be careful to use a very small tip and go slow.
This is right after applying the paint, then a couple of days later I went in with a exacto knife to gently cleanup any rough areas.
Thanks to everyone for all the advice.
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1947 Tank emblem
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Having said that, your emblems look fantastic, Lipdog and I wouldn't change a thing. It's like the difference between what a dog can smell, and what a fox can smell
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Toney Watson was probably one of the most knowledgeable post war Indian judges in the AMCA, if not the world, (along with Robin Markey, and about 5 or 6 others). He felt that Testor's red was very close to original based on many NOS, and original examples he had.
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Lipdog, thanks for pic. Ordered some 1-Shot Kool Crimson.
Chris, thanks for tip on using paste wax. Will help with unsteady brush hand.
I'll let you know how it goes.
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Put a coat of paste wax on the surface where you don't want the paint to stick. After the paint dries hot water and a brush removes the painted wax.
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1-Shot Kool Crimson is a very close match to Indian Red.Originally posted by motor-officer View PostI have always heard that Indian only used Indian Red paint between the letters of the tank script on 1947-51 models and that they switched to black paint for the 1952-53 models. I have never heard why they switched colors though.
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Emblem Paint
I have always heard that Indian only used Indian Red paint between the letters of the tank script on 1947-51 models and that they switched to black paint for the 1952-53 models. I have never heard why they switched colors though.
Originally posted by Lipdog View PostI just did this. I used 1-Shot pinstriping paint (Kool Crimson) on the clean chrome emblem, applied with a small pinstriping brush. That paint levels well and remains flexible because it has glycol in it, though it takes a long time to dry. It is less likely to crack later, around the screws. It looks flawless, far better than Testor’s model paint.
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I just did this. I used 1-Shot pinstriping paint (Kool Crimson) on the clean chrome emblem, applied with a small pinstriping brush. That paint levels well and remains flexible because it has glycol in it, though it takes a long time to dry. It is less likely to crack later, around the screws. It looks flawless, far better than Testor’s model paint.
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Thanks everyone.
Some great suggestions. I'll let you how it goes.
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I have repainted a number of different badges by spray painting or hand painting with a artist brush and then removing the paint from the unwanted areas. Depending on the badge I may mask off some of the badge so that you don't have as much paint to remove. I use a Rust-Oleum enamel paint to spray. Model paint or fingernail polish also work, flow well and they can be done in one coat. After the paint dries for a couple of days I remove it from the unwanted areas. Because you are painting over a chrome or smooth material I use a small piece of wood like a popsicle stick size to scrape the unwanted paint off. A flat end will work better that a round end to get into the corners. I have a few different ones that I made from oak. After you have removed the paint close to where you want I finish up the final edges. Do this by using a piece of cloth on the end of the wood stick or your finger pulled tight. Dip it in some lacquer thinner to just dampen it a bit, you don't want it running onto your good painted area. Use the dampen cloth to just go around and clean up the edges of the background paint.
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Terry, Hatfield's book says that the emblem for 1946 (and earlier) had translucent red in the background, but I don't see him mentioning the '47+ emblems that way. For my '46 emblems I colored in the background of the emblems with a red sharpie, it's translucent and wears fairly well needing more sharpie only every other year or so.
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