'46 chief clutch won't stay adjusted.

[kval]

Jim
the shaft is hardened, so with any luck it will be the nut. when I bought my Chief the previous owner did not understand left hand nuts so almost every left hand nut was stripped. my original reply was about the nut inside the trans.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13178[/ATTACH]
It seems that I have a bigger problem. Either the nut or the shaft is stripped. I'm hoping its the nut but haven't been able to get it off yet. I'm not sure if you can see it in the attached photo but it looks like the nut was tightened until it was slightly embedded in the washer then the washer was bent over and peened into a recess in the clutch cage. At this point the nut turns pretty freely in both directions so I don't know if it is a right hand or left hand thread. I'll probably have to cut it off. I just really hope it isn't the shaft. Thanks Jim

[Jack K]

Jim, the symptoms you describe indicate the problem is the nut holding the clutch basket/sprocket in the left side transmission bearing. This nut is inside the gearbox. The nut (left hand) holding the clutch hub may also be loose but you still need to get the shift tower off and check the clutch basket/sprocket retaining nut. That retaining nut should be torqued to at least 75 - 80 ft. lb.

[chief46]

camera april 21 018.jpg
It seems that I have a bigger problem. Either the nut or the shaft is stripped. I'm hoping its the nut but haven't been able to get it off yet. I'm not sure if you can see it in the attached photo but it looks like the nut was tightened until it was slightly embedded in the washer then the washer was bent over and peened into a recess in the clutch cage. At this point the nut turns pretty freely in both directions so I don't know if it is a right hand or left hand thread. I'll probably have to cut it off. I just really hope it isn't the shaft. Thanks Jim

[kval]

Jim
yes one side against flat on the nut, most of the suppliers should carry it (Kiwi,Greer etc) toque it "tight"

Thanks for the info Kevin. I looked at the washer and as I recall, the tab appeared to be pushed down into a flat in the bottom of the basket but was not bent up against the flat on the nut. Should one side be bent up against a flat on the nut and another side bent down to secure it to the basket? Do I need to buy a new washer? If so where would you recommend that I get one? Is there a specific torque setting for that nut or just torque to 'tight'? Jim

[chief46]

Thanks for the info Kevin. I looked at the washer and as I recall, the tab appeared to be pushed down into a flat in the bottom of the basket but was not bent up against the flat on the nut. Should one side be bent up against a flat on the nut and another side bent down to secure it to the basket? Do I need to buy a new washer? If so where would you recommend that I get one? Is there a specific torque setting for that nut or just torque to 'tight'? Jim

[kval]

Jim
check the nut inside the trans that holds the clutch basket. had one come loose when the lock tab on the washer broke

The last 3 times that I rode my clutch began dragging. The first two times I adjusted the lever/rod and it disengaged cleanly when I started the next ride but then began dragging after a relatively short ride. The last time it actually left me walking. I had driven it about 2 miles, stopped at a light and it worked perfectly. I drove about two more miles and the clutch wouldn't disengage at all. After I got it home I disconnected the clutch rod and used a pipe to turn the clutch arm as far as possible. It felt like it hit a hard stop but never released the clutch. I removed the cover, the pressure plate and some of the discs. I couldn't see anything that looked damaged or out of place. The only think I saw that didn't look as expected is a very light drag mark on the inside of the cover in the area of the primary chain tensioner. I can move the clutch .04" when I pull straight out on the clutch assembly which does not seem excessive. The clutch begins to slip smoothly when I compress the pressure plate .06" with tool. All indications are that the worm gear is just running out of travel. I'm not sure how this could happen or why it changes over time. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I would like to get it running before a local bike show next weekend. Thanks, Jim

[chief46]

The last 3 times that I rode my clutch began dragging. The first two times I adjusted the lever/rod and it disengaged cleanly when I started the next ride but then began dragging after a relatively short ride. The last time it actually left me walking. I had driven it about 2 miles, stopped at a light and it worked perfectly. I drove about two more miles and the clutch wouldn't disengage at all. After I got it home I disconnected the clutch rod and used a pipe to turn the clutch arm as far as possible. It felt like it hit a hard stop but never released the clutch. I removed the cover, the pressure plate and some of the discs. I couldn't see anything that looked damaged or out of place. The only think I saw that didn't look as expected is a very light drag mark on the inside of the cover in the area of the primary chain tensioner. I can move the clutch .04" when I pull straight out on the clutch assembly which does not seem excessive. The clutch begins to slip smoothly when I compress the pressure plate .06" with tool. All indications are that the worm gear is just running out of travel. I'm not sure how this could happen or why it changes over time. Any information would be greatly appreciated. I would like to get it running before a local bike show next weekend. Thanks, Jim