New 1965 Sporty xlch in the garage and the magneto is the issue....

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Got the Mag fixed and the S&S "L" rebuilt but won't start, will try to run with a shot of starter fluid. I think that carb is the issue. Maybe try the idea Flathead 80 mentioned, as I just read his post again.

I can help you with the S&S L series. Relatively few people know squat about them -- but the long story made short is that they are VERY sensitive to float height. But, before we get to that, I need some information to give you some decent information.

First, what is the actual marking on the carburetor?

Second, is the float bowl a top or a bottom feed?

Third, if it is a top feed, does it have a brass float?

Fourth, what is the main and the pilot jet numbers?

Fifth, does it have it's original choke plate?

Sixth, has the throttle shaft been rebushed?


I've got a soft spot for L series carbs; GBL.jpghere's a photo of a GBL I was working on recently sitting on my kitchen table . . .

[T. Cotten]

I see Cotton and I joined the AMCA Forum the same month in 2001. That is a long time ago! Charter members?

Actually, Knuck,...

I joined years earlier, but a forum update froze the "Cotten" name, and I had to add T.

Are you scared of bubble-testing?

....Cotten

[kitabel]

My history of condenser failure includes everything (new Fairbanks, new aftermarket, believed to be good used) except "just removed from a running bike" and the now $$$ Mallory external brass nail bucket.

[Chris Haynes]

Make sure you are using copper plug wires. Not carbon filament.

[KNUCK]

Got the Mag fixed and the S&S "L" rebuilt but won't start, will try to run with a shot of starter fluid. I think that carb is the issue. Maybe try the idea Flathead 80 mentioned, as I just read his post again.

[FNG1]

My 67 had a fixed base no retard mag. The tractors and Wisconsins have an impulse coupler to spin the mag fast while cranking. If you inch right up on compression the mag may not spin enough before the points open to make a spark. An adjustable base and a kicking technique may help you out.

[Flathead80]

Hi, well I have kicked a few Sportsters And before I did real damage I tried this.
I started priming the carb by choking it with a couple of kicks while pushing down on the kill button then
Released the kill button with the choke a couple of clicks open then kicked it and they started.
If I didn’t prime kick it first it would only give a pop every other kick.
It also works on my Flathead 80” and my 74” Knucklehead

[kurly]

Rudy fixed the mag on my steel wheeled Farmall F-12 tractor. I was so frustrated as it would always start will a pull from a truck but take 1000 turns with the crank. It now starts perfect. Rudys the man.

Curly

[KNUCK]

Thanks Chris and Bosch for the last 2 bits of information, will likely send it out as electrical is my weak area.

[BoschZEV]

Thanks all, I did a test on the condenser, seemed fine,

What test did you do? If you simply checked its resistance, and even if you found a high value, that's not good enough. If a condenser fails the resistance test with a standard ohmmeter it definitely won't work in a magneto, but passing that test does not mean it will.

[Chris Haynes]

Rudy Kalin is the man. He did the Wico Magneto for my Model A Ford.

[KNUCK]

I see Cotton and I joined the AMCA Forum the same month in 2001. That is a long time ago! Charter members?

[KNUCK]

Thanks all, I did a test on the condenser, seemed fine, original Fairbanks. I will likely change it if still a no go. Thanks for the number tator as my electrical skills are weak and I have no patience, I'm not a doctor.

[T. Cotten]

Damn those Wisconsin motors, Tator!

They are why NGK switched their A-6 plugs to resistors without telling anyone.

Every mag 'magnet' that crossed my benches needed "re-magnetized".

I think its really "re-polarized", but electrons are out of my zodiac.

....Cotten
PS: I'm pretty sure that included my own Edison-Splitdorf; I trusted a reliable mag-meister in the next town.
All I remember is that its got a B&S coil.

[tator]

I was having problems with a magneto on a 1960 XLCH. I put in a new set of excel points and a condenser and had the magneto re-charged. I bought a new coil from Dennis Kirk, still had problems. I sent the magneto out to Rudy Kalin in Forrest Lake MN who does magneto's for just about everything. He found out the condenser value was way off and the aftermarket coils that are floating around on the internet, even though they look and fit identical to the sportster original, they are for a Wisconsin motor and the Wisconsin motor has a big spring inside the magneto to spin them real fast, so that coil will run a sportster according to Rudy if you could get a gorilla to kick it fast enough. So he installed a different coil and different condenser. It is now a 2 kick bike. I am just posting this so you stay away from the Chinese coil and the excel condenser. Hope this helps. If you want to send your magneto to Rudy, here is his phone #651-233-6655.