Oil question

[T. Cotten]

The 67-early 69 timers were fully advanced at 900 rpm, the late 69 at 1600 rpm.
vph-d

As Kitabel once pointed out, Folks,..

They are actually an 'auto-retard'!

....Cotten

[vph-d]

The 67-early 69 timers were fully advanced at 900 rpm, the late 69 at 1600 rpm.
vph-d

[chuckthebeatertruck]

PS: I put my '65 circuit breaker upon a SUN machine to diagnose bouncing points once; The advance was nearly instantaneous, with almost no "curve".

Ditto on 67-70 xlh automatic timers. I rebuilt a unit with NOS springs and it was at full advance by ~2000rpm.

Most bikes I have worked on with mechanical auto advance from the 60s to late 70s, regardless of make, are already into the curve at or just over idle speed. The move to electronic in the late 70s for most makes brought more managed curves.

I find most aftermarket timing parts these days to be of very poor quality and short life span. I hunt NOS like a bird dog at meets and the flea bay.

[T. Cotten]

I see in the manual, Folks,..

Advance is 35°, but I recently missplaced page 5F-6 to seek RPM, so we assume fast enough that the strobe shows it.

The degrees of advance before top-dead-center is set in steel with the flywheel mark, and HD was quite accurate.
(Indian not so much.)

It was many years ago, but I successfully made a similar aftermarket auto-advance circuitbreaker work, so it is possible.

....Cotten

[dukekleman]

I've played and done some development/modifications on HD units many years ago on the Sun distributor machine. It's there I started to learn how to work around issues and deal with higher compression larger Cubic inch HD's.

[T. Cotten]

...I would purchase new springs of OEM diameter...

There were at least three different OEM advance springs (-64, -67, -70), Duke,..

And this is not an OEM circuit breaker. Nor are the weights, but the design is '70 and later...

My suggestion Freeman, is to use the assembly on the right in your post #24, and strobe it of course; Arbitrary adjustments can hurt.

....Cotten
PS: I put my '65 circuit breaker upon a SUN machine to diagnose bouncing points once; The advance was nearly instantaneous, with almost no "curve".

[dukekleman]

The advance rate can be checked using a timing light and portable/universal tachometer. Look up the correct Timing advance degrees and Rpm in the service manual and set accordingly.
I would purchase new springs of OEM diameter. Also be sure to lubricate the weight pivot pins as well as the inner cam lobe pivot. Keep in mind this is a annual maintenance procedures that should be followed for reliability.

[Freeman]

Freeman,
I would investigate the "rate" of ignition timing advance with the timing advancer shown in the photos you attached. They appear as though they are a thicker wire diameter which is a heavier rate spring. The heavier springs slow the advance curve of the overall ignition timing which in turn causes excessive engine heat. I've seen this issue on many bikes over the years.

I have adjusted it clockwise now, and the temperature seems to be a little lower. How to solve the spring problem?

[Freeman]

My advice, Freeman,..

Please continue with 50wt, or even 40wt if your weather is cooling.

Clearances in a low-mileage motor should be minimal, so flow of a thick oil would be inhibited.

(Pressure at the gauge increases, but not the volume; Excess is by-passed into the gearcase to be evacuated, instead of feeding the rest of the motor.)

...Cotten

OK.Follow your advice.thanks

[dukekleman]

Freeman,
I would investigate the "rate" of ignition timing advance with the timing advancer shown in the photos you attached. They appear as though they are a thicker wire diameter which is a heavier rate spring. The heavier springs slow the advance curve of the overall ignition timing which in turn causes excessive engine heat. I've seen this issue on many bikes over the years.

[T. Cotten]

My advice, Freeman,..

Please continue with 50wt, or even 40wt if your weather is cooling.

Clearances in a low-mileage motor should be minimal, so flow of a thick oil would be inhibited.

(Pressure at the gauge increases, but not the volume; Excess is by-passed into the gearcase to be evacuated, instead of feeding the rest of the motor.)

...Cotten

[Freeman]

Ready to use

[T. Cotten]

I thought I made it clear by stating 40 weight and 60 weight after the 75 and 105 statement...
vph-d

Honestly, Vph-d:

Back in the 70s dealership wisdom was 75w for hydraulics, 105w for solids. 40 weight/60 weight I use H-D 60 in my rigids, 40 in my 65.
vph-d

If I didn't already know what you meant, from four decades ago, it would be gibberish.

Please remember that Freeman is most likely using translation software!

....Cotten

[vph-d]

I thought I made it clear by stating 40 weight and 60 weight after the 75 and 105 statement...
vph-d

[T. Cotten]

That's what I meant by 'proprietary', Duffey!

(Back in post #20..)

If Freeman solves the timing, he may solve the noise too.

....Cotten