Oil question

[Freeman]

Unfortunately, Freeman,...

We have no base data to compare. Pyrometer readings are difficult on a cruising machine (without a sidehack), and static readings seem to change as you watch them.

Observing the surface temperatures involves many variables beyond time and ambient air. Since heat flows to where it is not, the higher front readings may only mean that is where the most heat is leaving the motor at that time.

I have come to believe the front cylinder of a v-twin always "appears" warmer, although a 50°F difference is curious.

.....Cotten

Yes, the front cylinder should theoretically be lower than the rear cylinder, which is strange. Can we speculate that the lubrication inside the front cylinder is reduced?

[Freeman]

Well, that's a loaded question when answering if that's "normal" . Yes and no. I'd like to ask first where on the engine cylinder areas are you "exactly" measuring these temperatures. Me knowing that is important in my answer.
Merry Christmas as well!

Exhaust position

[T. Cotten]

Unfortunately, Freeman,...

We have no base data to compare. Pyrometer readings are difficult on a cruising machine (without a sidehack), and static readings seem to change as you watch them.

Observing the surface temperatures involves many variables beyond time and ambient air. Since heat flows to where it is not, the higher front readings may only mean that is where the most heat is leaving the motor at that time.

I have come to believe the front cylinder of a v-twin always "appears" warmer, although a 50°F difference is curious.

.....Cotten

[dukekleman]

Well, that's a loaded question when answering if that's "normal" . Yes and no. I'd like to ask first where on the engine cylinder areas are you "exactly" measuring these temperatures. Me knowing that is important in my answer.
Merry Christmas as well!

[Freeman]

Merry Christmas, everyone. Today's temperature is 37.4'F, I go out to ride for an hour, front 300'F, after 250'F, is this temperature normal?

[T. Cotten]

I know nothing of exotic coils, Duke!

Its hard to believe component expansion significantly changes where you see the line with a strobe.

(But I swear by stranger things...)

....Cotten
PS: If a significant difference were observed, I would inspect the 'intermediate' drive gear sideplay. They can be diabolical.

[dukekleman]

I've run into heat related issues with timing variations. Due to growth and expansion along with all the gears and directional power flow changes of those engines. Ignition coils also react different (Ohm's variations on primary/secondary side) with heat. Full operating temperature is my preferred method although I agree that hot oil and engine components are no fun to deal with.

[T. Cotten]

You'll need to get the engine up to operating temperature....

I always let them cool down, Duke!

Or timed them as soon as they would start and run; It was a lot easier on the fingers.

And produced identical results.

.....Cotten

[Freeman]

You'll need to get the engine up to operating temperature. Install the red colored induction clamp onto the front cylinder high tension leed (spark plug wire) remove the timing inspection plug on the left crankcase half. I recommend using a auxiliary tachometer to verify RPM. A second person is very helpful as well. Bring your RPM to 2,500. Your timing mark should be centered in the inspection hole. If not, adjust the timer accordingly. Now go down in RPM and slowly start raising the RPM. Note the RPM and point when the timing mark centers itself in the inspection whole. The hope is that your achieving your 35 degree advance slope earlier on in RPM. Full advance by 1500 - 1800 RPM. Your advance weight springs, which ever rate they are, along with friction on the pivot points will dictate the RPM point of full advance.
This is the best explanation I can type on a forum from a cell phone screen. Laughing...

Ok, thank you. I will operate in this way after receiving the required tools.

[dukekleman]

You'll need to get the engine up to operating temperature. Install the red colored induction clamp onto the front cylinder high tension leed (spark plug wire) remove the timing inspection plug on the left crankcase half. I recommend using a auxiliary tachometer to verify RPM. A second person is very helpful as well. Bring your RPM to 2,500. Your timing mark should be centered in the inspection hole. If not, adjust the timer accordingly. Now go down in RPM and slowly start raising the RPM. Note the RPM and point when the timing mark centers itself in the inspection whole. The hope is that your achieving your 35 degree advance slope earlier on in RPM. Full advance by 1500 - 1800 RPM. Your advance weight springs, which ever rate they are, along with friction on the pivot points will dictate the RPM point of full advance.
This is the best explanation I can type on a forum from a cell phone screen. Laughing...

[Freeman]

[Freeman]

Timing lamp

[Freeman]

Yep, why the spring diameter/rate is so critical as I mentioned earlier. If the spring rate is incorrect, let say to stiff in this scenario, the centrifugal advance will increase in RPM before reaching 35 degrees. This can leed to retarded timing at lower RPM's of cruise speeds which causes excessive engine heat and adverse thermal affects on the motor oil. As cylinder port dynamics, mainly intake as well as gasoline chemistry changed over the years you'll note the variation in spring rate which affects the all in full advance advertised in the service manuals of different years groups and engines. Back to a lot of the aftermarket centrifugal springs being to stiff causing Freeman's heat issues most likely...

Yes, I found the overheating problem after restoring the spring, if I didn't change the other settings, I tried to adjust it clockwise, now it's better, but I'm not sure if it's accurate. I ordered the timing light and want to use it to adjust it accurately, but I didn't find the corresponding video on Youtube. I need the video to help me use the timing light correctly.

[RichO]

I've found Tedd's to SOFT. I did track done OEM through H-D's computer listing of dealers old stock.

[dukekleman]

Yep, why the spring diameter/rate is so critical as I mentioned earlier. If the spring rate is incorrect, let say to stiff in this scenario, the centrifugal advance will increase in RPM before reaching 35 degrees. This can leed to retarded timing at lower RPM's of cruise speeds which causes excessive engine heat and adverse thermal affects on the motor oil. As cylinder port dynamics, mainly intake as well as gasoline chemistry changed over the years you'll note the variation in spring rate which affects the all in full advance advertised in the service manuals of different years groups and engines. Back to a lot of the aftermarket centrifugal springs being to stiff causing Freeman's heat issues most likely...