Fuel Shut-Off Rod

[T. Cotten]

Just one more question, Jerry!

Does the factory tool fit the five gallon '65 "Turnpike" tanks?

Thanks,

....Cotten

[JSB55]

Tank off. Tool Deployed. Tank reinstalled. Mission accomplished in well under an hour.

[T. Cotten]

I'd love to have one of those OEM tools in my collection, Jerry...

Hell, I'd be excited!

But....

....Cotten

[Jerry Wieland]

[QUOTE=T. Cotten;n315143]

How big a hammer, Jerry?

What if the tank is too bent to get the tool on?

My tooling allows the top and bottom to be moved separately, and gently.

The bottom piece started out as a tap.

...Cotten

Cotten You must be talking about a different factory tool than what I've got. The tool I've got has no problem straightening the top and bottom separately and then aligning then. As far as hammer size - how about good judgement - isn't this always the case with a hammer. I've never seen any kind of specification relating to hammer size/stroke length/force applied. Too bent? I don't get it it. I straighten the tank first and then align the reserve holes. No since in aligning reserve holes before you straighten the tank. The only time I could not use the tool was once when the bottom hole got severely egg-shaped. I did the next best thing - I turned the tank into a 36 to 39 knucklehead tank instead of a 40 to 46.

Jerry

[T. Cotten]

Now that it's cleaned up, I can see that what I thought was a "gouge" is actually a defect in the attachment of the tip to the rod. It goes about 1/4 around the rod, with the deepest defect about 1/8 the way around. Photos attached. Safe to run, or should it be replaced?

That looks very much like a silver-solder repair, John!

Usually there is no gap between tip and rod:
PTCK2.jpg

Since that's not the sealing surface, I'd just lathe-dress it anyway.

The final step is to burnish the seat by cramming it onto the finished rod a few times, while it is held firmly in the chuck.

....Cotten
PS: I found one OEM seat that leaked beneath its brass insert. Some repops with plastic seats became highspeed fixed jets. In the early 80s, a plastic fuel filter did the same thing to me.

[JSB55]

Now that it's cleaned up, I can see that what I thought was a "gouge" is actually a defect in the attachment of the tip to the rod. It goes about 1/4 around the rod, with the deepest defect about 1/8 the way around. Photos attached. Safe to run, or should it be replaced?

[T. Cotten]

[QUOTE=Jerry Wieland;n315132]

....Cotten
PS: You know the Factory straightening tool is a joke if you have to hit with a hammer!

I align them visually.




I have to disagree Cotten. The factory tool works fabulously and efficiently. Jerry

How big a hammer, Jerry?

What if the tank is too bent to get the tool on?

My tooling allows the top and bottom to be moved separately, and gently.

The bottom piece started out as a tap.

...Cotten

[Jerry Wieland]

[QUOTE=T. Cotten;n315094]




....Cotten
PS: You know the Factory straightening tool is a joke if you have to hit with a hammer!

I align them visually.




I have to disagree Cotten. The factory tool works fabulously and efficiently. Jerry

[T. Cotten]

Its the 'suck test', not blow, John!

Just like a floatvalve, you hope it makes a tiny pop when you pull your tongue off.

And Folks, the Factory alignment tool has one major design flaw, for which their band-aid was the 'up-and-down wrench'.

Ferrous metal must be bent past 'straight', so that it may spring back to straight.

They figured lining it up and beating upon it was enough.

FARSIDE.jpg

....Cotten

[JSB55]

Sounds like you need to align the top and bottom of the fuel tank with the special tool designed for this purpose. V-twin make a copy of the original tool.
I had the same problem, used the tool and the top and bottom are aligned again. Fuel rod and shutoff works butter smooth and no more leaks!
Good luck

Yup, I have the tool, and that's the next step. Meanwhile, I'm soaking the parts in Chem Dip carb cleaner.

[JSB55]

I'm not really familiar with FMC, John,...

But I soon realized it's cut 'n pastes from Tedd's catalog, JAMES, and probably others.

Its a necessary bot site I guess; Sure killed the mom 'n pop shop.

I'm almost curious enough to see if Tedd lists the rod separately. Almost.

...Cotten

I'll put the old one back in before I'd resort to Tedd's. Got it soaking in Chem Dip right now. I'll post a photo in an hour or two and see what you guys think. It has a little gouge on one side which I'd guess is from being forced into the seat while misaligned, but when I screwed it into the seat and did the "blow test", it passed. I can almost hear the derisive guffaws already, but Alignment Tool here I come.

[eddiepanhead]

Sounds like you need to align the top and bottom of the fuel tank with the special tool designed for this purpose. V-twin make a copy of the original tool.
I had the same problem, used the tool and the top and bottom are aligned again. Fuel rod and shutoff works butter smooth and no more leaks!
Good luck

[T. Cotten]

I'm not really familiar with FMC, John,...

But I soon realized it's cut 'n pastes from Tedd's catalog, JAMES gaskets, and probably others.

Its a necessary bot site I guess; Sure killed the mom 'n pop shop.

I'm almost curious enough to see if Tedd lists the rod separately. Almost.

...Cotten

[JSB55]

The headline said "vitron", but in the description, it's correctly spelled "viton". I agree, the viton orings i've gotten were all black or red.

[T. Cotten]

"Vitron", John?

True viton can be black or red, but that in the pic looks and smells like natural PEEK.

It raises the timeless question: If you're going to the trouble to repop something, why not do it right?

Monel is cheaper, too!

...Cotten
PS: A fellow left me a dozen rods at Davenport a couple of years ago, and I mailed them back re-cut for sixty bucks.

But that was a couple of years ago.