Hey Gang,
Glad and a little suprised to see my paint question generated some positive interest!
Once I've got the new tanks and fenders and start working, I'll post images. I've found a couple internet places that sell "coach paint" and will ship to the US. We'll see how it all works out!
Clint
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Brush Paint Finish..?
Collapse
X
-
Yes a friend of mine loves Akzo products,... I'm more familiar with PPG and have used Dupont's Centari. I've heard a LOT of good things about PPG's single stage stuff though,.. so I'm leaning towards it,... yet not entirely sure, so I figured on getting some opinions and see what's been successfully used, etc.Originally posted by rwm View Posti used utek (akzo product) metal etch primer then a base coat and a clear coat on top.did a lot of sanding im not a good painter utek line is for body shop spot repair no sanding need if coats are with in 24 hrs. you can sand if needed. has 2 day easy sand time after that it takes alot to sand. cure time can be decreased with heat lamp.
I don't really like the "wet" look of a 2-stage paint,...Last edited by 1776J; 08-17-2009, 07:43 PM.
Leave a comment:
-
i used utek (akzo product) metal etch primer then a base coat and a clear coat on top.did a lot of sanding im not a good painter utek line is for body shop spot repair no sanding need if coats are with in 24 hrs. you can sand if needed. has 2 day easy sand time after that it takes alot to sand. cure time can be decreased with heat lamp.
Leave a comment:
-
Paint on frames and front ends, etc.....??
So fellas, let me ask you, what are you using to paint your front ends and frames?
I'm ready to throw something on the front end I have (as its blasted clean now) and I'm up in the air between using a PPG urethane primer and a single stage or base coat/clear coat finish on it, as well as the frame.
Part of me would like to go really traditional and do a lacquer job, but I'm on the fence about it.
I know using either the lacquer or enamel would certainly be "period correct". I do need to make sure its durable and I still need to re-rivet the fender tabs as one rivet is loose and there is a little bot of gunk trapped in the nooks and crannies behind the tabs as I used a pick to get out all I could, so I figured I'd just take out the rivets and thoroughly clean it,... hence I'd like to throw primer on it so I can still handle it and work on it before paint.
What do you fellas use?? What's your plan of attack?
Thanks guys
Leave a comment:
-
I've rubbed out Imron with excellent results. It's just a lot harder to sand and I'm coping. . coping. . . coping with the nerve damage.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by T. Cotten View PostNOT a PAINTER I!
So years ago I bought cheap Krylon in the can and slopped it on with a loosehair brush, and then wetsanded and buffed it to a delightful deep gloss. *Sigh*
But then the gasoline changed.
It seems that only isocyanate urethanes (akin to Imron) endure the injector cleaners and oxygenators that digest other finishes, and even some quality powdercoatings.
But they don't "rub out",
Or so I'm told.....?
....Cotten
Yep,... Thank you EPA!
Protecting the environment, hmmm, maybe.. OR,... safty-ing us to DEATH!
I think the latter.....
Maybe China's still producing good 'ol lead-based oil paints and lacquers these days? Though with the genius of the ethanol additive among others, that good 'ol lacquer would just dissolve away quicker than you could say, "what the??!!"
Leave a comment:
-
NOT a PAINTER I!
So years ago I bought cheap Krylon in the can and slopped it on with a loosehair brush, and then wetsanded and buffed it to a delightful deep gloss. *Sigh*
But then the gasoline changed.
It seems that only isocyanate urethanes (akin to Imron) endure the injector cleaners and oxygenators that digest other finishes, and even some quality powdercoatings.
But they don't "rub out",
Or so I'm told.....?
....Cotten
Leave a comment:
-
I've used sable hair brushes and they are indeed the finest brushes on the planet. They are also the most expensive. The last '0' size sable brush I bought cost $15 and that had to be 10 years ago. I have a friend that is a professional water color artist and he has a larger sable hair brush that cost over $200 and they go up from there. If I was going to brush paint a bike I wouldn't buy a sable hair brush but I would look at synthetic fiber brushes at a good art supply store.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by Paps View PostHorse hair is what they used. Expensive to buy those brushes now though. But absolutely !! It it can and has been done very professionally. I myself have put bruch paint on and no one could tell the difference between it compared to spray. It is all in the brush and the direction of the strokes. You got to stroke it in all directions to get a smooth finish. Very light strokes. Paps
Horse hair?
I'm surprised, as I know sable hair is the finest you can find to paint with, thus giving you the smallest amount of brush strokes left in the paint? Then again, horse hair was much more prevalent than sable!
Where can I find and read about the techniques used and the use of horse hair? I'd like to read more on that. Thanks.Last edited by 1776J; 08-15-2009, 09:48 AM.
Leave a comment:
-
I found this several years ago on an old Chevy Truck forum I frequent as besides Indians, 60-66 Chevy trucks are a habit...er hobby of mine. I showed this to my buddy Mike and he painted his 55 Pan using this method, came out great. Keep in mind theat Tremclad is Canuck for Rustoleum. This is offered in the spirit of the post, I know all of you guys have unlimited resources and would never need to take steps to save money!
http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx
Leave a comment:
-
Tekaloid (coach enamel) is/was the Brits favorite brushing paint, done correctly exellent results for the backyard restorer.Originally posted by Rub View Postctbrunt,
One of the things that always surprises me reading vintage British bike publications is the number of people who use brush on finishes. Many of them have multiple coats which are then buffed to a finish closely resembling original sprayed finishes. I say go for it!
Robbie
Makeup of it seems to have changed & strangley not available in US, interesting site all the same.
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk/
Leave a comment:
-
I agree Eric. If brushed on correctly...rubbing it out is a breeze job. What ever you all do...don't use a cheapy brush ! You will find brush bristles in your tedious work, if you do. The brush technic involves very fine pattern strokes. Think of the brush strokes as cylinder type cross hatch honing. Better yet....along with the previous thought of brushing....think of emery grit sizes, Coarse then fine..... Paps
Leave a comment:
-
Early motorcycles were brush painted but they rubbed and buffed the final finish. I rub and buff all my paint jobs because I hate orange peel. You should have no trouble wet sanding brush strokes out and then buffing back a high shine.
Leave a comment:
-
Paps is quite correct. Before I got into doing what I do now, I used to make custom made furniture and cabinets and the finishing techniques were quite simular,as a matter of fact H-D sold paint in cans to be brushed on. As Paps states, the quality of the brush makes all the difference.--Michael--6671
Leave a comment:
-
Horse hair is what they used. Expensive to buy those brushes now though. But absolutely !! It it can and has been done very professionally. I myself have put bruch paint on and no one could tell the difference between it compared to spray. It is all in the brush and the direction of the strokes. You got to stroke it in all directions to get a smooth finish. Very light strokes. Paps
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: