Paint Methods for Indian Motorcycle Parts 1949-1953

[JTR249]

Well, I think the sanding tips really helped. I just posted this one online for sale. Here are a few photos.
The runs in the latch area and some grainy texturing on the sides were the only problems.
Thanks to all of you.
-JR

[JTR249]

Today I tried to put the advice to test and there were some promising results. The boxes are still drying. I sanded the rough areas and runs with dry/wet 800 blending sand paper and the results look pretty good. For some reason this seems to a be a first coat issue and not a problem I see on second or additional coats after sanding.
Thank all of you for the advice. One box already sold and a second will be on Ebay in a week or so. I'll post the photos then.

Best,
-JR

[PRG]

Howdy Joe,

For the benefit of others who’ve grown weary of waiting months frustratingly for paintwork and might fancy having a go themselves I’m answering your pm here. Following the Taiwanese gun of similar dimensions, for the 441 restoration I stepped up to this, a Sata Minijet 4. Where it’s superior quality was most apparent was, in addition to better incremental adjustment accuracy was shooting larger flat panels (side skirts) where blended overlapping passes were easier to achieve. Additionally I found with quality paints (Glasurit), even when high solids, shot seemingly less viscous with better atomization and therefore less pressure required. The latter reducing duty cycling on my small compressor, less heat created and in higher humidity environments less water to be captured by that orange filter. Important as you have no indication it is becoming saturated until you start having the water equivalent of fish eyes. Also, the hard and durable (film thickness) achieved cannot be rivaled by any aerosol. Very apparent if you’re hauling machines across country secured by straps potentially abraiding frame rails and such.

Again, not knowing any better, my cheap gun worked great for decades as I refined my technique around its shortcomings, it’s just this Sata was a eye opener, falling under the heading you get what you pay for. Good luck. Had an 83 FXR back in the day lovely machine at link below

https://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Harley-Davidson

[PRG]

Howdy sir,

All of the machines at my various websites - save 1, the 441 done with a Sata - were shot with a $49.00 gravity feed touch up gun providing good service over 30 years. Couple of things for an amateur such as myself shooting outdoors (the Red Rapide in my sig that went on to receive an Amelia Island display invite in 2012 from such humble beginnings) in high southern humidity: frequent in line filter changes to reduce water contamination and pressure at 28 - 32 PSI for better pattern control/less overwhelming volume/overspray. In my single car garage in cold weather, a box fan drawing through 5 heppa furnace filters taped up into a square.

Though large flat surfaces (Indian skirted fenders) can be a challenge, a touch up gives you way more pattern control/flow out on narrow/small/rounded surfaces than a full size automotive gun. Sadly, these days with onerous EPA regs, your biggest challenge will be convincing automotive finish retailers to sell you high VOC products as a non professional. Good luck, once mastered, a liberating and satisfying feeling.

[exeric]

JR, buy a Harbor Freight jamb gun for $35.00, and give it a try. Overall, you may be into it for $150 to start, but you will adapt to the task, and develop your skills, and technique. There are many good paint tutorials on Youtube, and painting really is kind of fun. Don't forget to use a respirator !

[painterdale]

PRG and exeric,
Thank you both for sharing your advice and experience. Paint work has always seemed very sensitive to me. You have to be careful or you will ruin the finish.
I had an employee of BD Cycles tell me I should use as many as eleven coats on the frames when restoring Indians. I only used 2 or 3 and then I saw why. With the slightest nudge into another metal part, there was scratching and a slight flaking, often right down through the primer.
I have a compressed air system, though have never used it. Maybe I will learn this summer.
Kind regards,
-JR

Go for it, JR! The worst that could happen is you have to sand it down and start over. Like Eric said, the self satisfaction is definitely worth the effort!

Dale

[painterdale]

Howdy Dale,

Wouldn’t you say with the lack of solids in aerosols and corresponding thin film thickness that one might be better off, if desired, wet sanding very carefully with 800-1500 between final top coats to avoid cut-through, especially on edges. In contrast to decades of shooting gravity feed high solids decided to paint all 60 plus pieces of my Black Shadow below with Lowe’s sourced aerosols, experimenting with heat and various applications along the way, man was that an education, both then and now long term....have gone back to conventional gun applications since.

https://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/HRD-Vincent/1950-Vincent-Black-Shadow/i-pLWhPHk

You are right, Peter. My mistake. I wasn't even thinking aerosol, probably because I have ZERO talent with spray cans!
I read about your process painting the Vincent a couple years ago. I was fascinated. Very impressive results!

Dale

[JTR249]

PRG and exeric,
Thank you both for sharing your advice and experience. Paint work has always seemed very sensitive to me. You have to be careful or you will ruin the finish.
I had an employee of BD Cycles tell me I should use as many as eleven coats on the frames when restoring Indians. I only used 2 or 3 and then I saw why. With the slightest nudge into another metal part, there was scratching and a slight flaking, often right down through the primer.
I have a compressed air system, though have never used it. Maybe I will learn this summer.
Kind regards,
-JR

[exeric]

Last Monday I finished painting the standard black items on my '51FL. I don't have a problem with high quality aerosols and think they have become much better over the years. However, you can't beat name brand automotive paint, shot from a good gun. It is expensive, but if this is a lifelong hobby, and one expects to do more bikes in the future, the costs will come down, and the quality will stay high. I just bought a 1 quart can of black, wet look hardener, and the corresponding reducer at a cost of about $80.00. The paint is already quite hard, and will only get more durable as it cures. I painted the inner, and outer primary, oil tank, chain guard, brake drums, seat T, tool box, damper assy., and horn and barely dropped the level in the can of paint. Painting is 95% preparation, and then 5% anxiety when you're actually painting. After that, it's 100% self satisfaction.

[PRG]

Howdy Dale,

Wouldn’t you say with the lack of solids in aerosols and corresponding thin film thickness that one might be better off, if desired, wet sanding very carefully with 800-1500 between final top coats to avoid cut-through, especially on edges. In contrast to decades of shooting gravity feed high solids decided to paint all 60 plus pieces of my Black Shadow below with Lowe’s sourced aerosols, experimenting with heat and various applications along the way, man was that an education, both then and now long term....have gone back to conventional gun applications since.

https://petergz.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/HRD-Vincent/1950-Vincent-Black-Shadow/i-pLWhPHk

[JTR249]

Here's a few preliminary results.
-JR

[JTR249]

Thanks Dale. I'll check that out.
-JR

[painterdale]

Chuckthebeatertruck has lots of great paint tips in his thread, "Let's build a girl's bike: a !967 Sportster XLH".

Dale

[painterdale]

Hi, JR!
The Scotch Brite pad is going to slightly rough up the surface to provide a mechanical bond for the paint to stick. To be clear, Scotch Brite, then apply paint. After the first coats of paint sit for a week, the surface "closes up" and you lose the potential for a chemical bond so you need to provide a "tooth" or mechanical bond for the paint to stick. It's also a good time to catch any imperfections in the first coats by light sanding with 500 or 600 grit paper. The following coats should go on nice and smooth. Hope this helps a little.

Dale

[JTR249]

Thank you all for your suggestions. I will take your advice, wait, re-apply and then use the Scotch Brite pad. Is this pad what makes the metal appear smooth as glass?
I was kind of frustrated when I tried to paint my own Scout fenders. The finish is not as good as my pre-restored gas tank or oil tank. I even used spray lacquer in the suggested two coats, though I did not follow up with any additional work. Now I will try this and see what happens.

Thanks again.
-JR