1940something 45" flathead from Arizona

[Taylorfromtucson]

I chatted with her a bit and she wants 7k for a replica sidecar. She's insane

[Taylorfromtucson]

I have a line on a really cherry looking ls29 repop sidecar. Guy selling it is only a couple of hours away. They're going for 3500 new , and am curious what a decent deal on this one would be. Tiny, my dog, would love this and I'm hoping someone can chime in on what would be a fair offer. Much help appreciated

[Taylorfromtucson]

I ended up making a custom bushing for the seatpost. I had o.d.'s that went from 1.040 to 1.055. I turned /filed it down to 1.045(where possible) and made a 1.048 i.d. bronze bushing. I'm good to go! 6 inch oversized bronze bushing was only 15 bucks, and I used a lathe in a community workshop in town. I also dropped some stuff of to a guy named bondo bob down here in Tucson to fix some smaller things I can't. Another week or two and I'll start digging into the motor and check the bushings and the rods

[Taylorfromtucson]

Just threw a new seatpost bushing in yesterday and it looks like my seatpost has been worn down by an o.d. of 25 thousandths. Is it best just to get a new upper part of the seatpost. I'd like to keep as much original stuff , but it looks like the seatpost is a little thin in the first place. Also, I believe my front fender is off of a knucklehead. I know the difference isn't that much in the length of the fender braces. But can anyone confirm lengths? Mine is almost exactly 6" from the edge of the fender to the farthest edge of the farthest (away from the rear of the bike) rivet. I don't know if it will fit if I bend the braces to fit inside the rockers

[Taylorfromtucson]

Rubone - I need to buy the 1 7/8 manifold wrench to get it off, I believe the manifold in the pic is for whatever carb servis we're running, but I have a wla 3 bolt one that I'm going to run. I've got a freshly rebuilt m88 from Doug Feisenrod a while back and am going to use that one. Cotton-I was working on those tanks this afternoon and found out that almost everything was rust welded solid. The bottom end of the fuel rod has totally mated itself to the threaded bottom side( the end broke off, and the top cap has done the same. Fuel drain plug came out with alot of penetrating oil ok, and the insides of the tanks are a slightly pitted but surprisingly decent. I don't know how I'm gonna get the fuel rod out, it looks like a 10 year old slim Jim. So much for mayonnaise, the whole thing is just about covered in penetrating oil(or at least has a wiped / slight coating)

[T. Cotten]

Those tanks look a little beyond mayonaisse, Taylor,...

....Cotten

[Rubone]

What carb are you planning to put on that manifold?

[Taylorfromtucson]

[Taylorfromtucson]

A little bit of an update... Finally tracked down a 46wl with a 39xx vin, so now I know what details I will need to have a mid year 46 45". There was three distinct detail groupings with the 46, now that that war was over and gearing back from war time production board regulations on finishes... Chrome shift gate, chrome lever, painted steel tank emblems, etc... Floorboards are riveted back on and banged out straight, and I ended up welding the wallowed out stud holes to the studs so I didn't have to build the hole up and re drill it...it looks good and way less work for me. My Flanders bars are almost good to go. I bought bars from Jacksuns for their amazing fake patina work, which I really like, but I had to grind out the weld seam on the inside of where the plungers go, they also drilled and tapped the holes for the horn wrong(unless I have two really messed up aftermarket horn button assemblies). I don't know how exactly to fix the one hole on the horn, I have a mig welder and I don't want to destroy the finish on the bars but I don't want to deal with porosity. I also just ordered wire harness from Debby Palmer (from mutt(?)), which I hear is really well done. And finally put together my dash base. In the picture I have that crusty chrome early style dash, and was wondering if anyone wanted to trade for a late on in similar finish. I have another late style cat eye, but it is not the finish I want...so I have two to trade for the right dash for this project. If anyone wants to sell or swap with me for stuff let me know. I have tranny's , a frame, and lots of other stuff, but I only want to trade for 1946 stuff...although there are somethings I would like to get rid of

[T. Cotten]

1. i thought mayo is good for removing paint??

Its not a joke, Taylor,...

Honest.

If the paint comes off, it would have anyway.

.....Cotten
PS: It used to be that S.C. Johnson Lemon Pledge was fantastic. Nothing stays the same, even with a legendary provider.

[Taylorfromtucson]

1. i thought mayo is good for removing paint??

[T. Cotten]

Is there anything i can rub on these tanks to preserve the surface? Ive heard about boiled linseed oil, but what do yall use?

Mayonnaise, Taylor!

,,,,Cotten

[Taylorfromtucson]

Two weekends ago i ended up doing alotta research for trying to identify some wla tanks i had for sale, and found out the other tanks i had(41-46 tanks from first post) were 45/46 oil and 41 only gas. Also in my going over the palmers book again, i found out i have mostly on the later end of 41-46 parts, so now i thinkin im dialed in to building what will be really close to a 1946 wl.

In searching through internet pictures i came across these 45/46 tanks so i bought them. They also had an unchromed shift lever and the correct shift gate too. one of the badges is steel and the other is chromed brass...sonif anyone has one of those laying around i would be willing to work out trading or selling another set i have that are the chromed ones that look brand new(they have the g stamp).

Is there anything i can rub on these tanks to preserve the surface? Ive heard about boiled linseed oil, but what do yall use?

I am waiting(its been a while) on a call back from a guy in phoenix on 46 cases and/or other i parts, but if anyone has anything out there 1946 im very interested...i also have stuff to trade.

Last question...under the stainless trim its real rusty and i want to squirtbsome kind of oil or protectant under there, but i dont want to damage the trim,l... whats the easyest way to get them off...they are really hugging the mounts?

[BigLakeBob]

Respect 45 rear drums and don't throw them away too quick, good ones are hard to find. They are worth repairing and saving IMO.

[Rubone]

Yes, am working on joining the phoenix chapter!

Since im not sure what my motor situation is, wheels seemed like a good place to start. Turns out my rear hub was drilled out for half inch(!) bolts, so i found another from cj the Linkert Guy in phoenix. Before i go ahead with this one, i have some questions...

1. Thoughts on smoothing out the brake surface? I cleaned and a little scrub with a steel wool ball for dishes, but should i go a little further...will brake pads wear more with some rust pitting?

2.i looked around a bit and i see the speedo gear listed separately on some websites, but I don't see it anywhere for sale. Is mine good enough to use, or should i replace?

3.ive heard about dipping parts in hot oil to preserve patina... how is this done and does anyone have experience? Ive been rubbing everything i finish with a light dw40 sprayed rag. Does this work for paint, or just rusty surfaces? Im totally open to cooking up oil and rubbing all my visible surfaces down, but ive only heard of wd40 and boiled linseed oil...which ive heard can get sticky....i live in a desert.

4. Any machinists out there interested in my overdrilled hub? I dont even knownif the last clown drilled it perfectly center so i dont even think heli coils would work. Why would someone do this?


the X is my drilled hub gear and the NEW is the one i just got in the oics

H-D sold 1/2" thread lug bolts for drums with stripped 3/8 holes.