Ride Report -- The National Road Run that Wasn’t, but Was: Gunnison Freedom Ride 2021

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Just over two years ago, my buddy Cliff mentioned the Rocky Mountain Chapter was planning a Road Run for June 2021. This seemed an almost too good to be true thing. For years, we corresponded regularly about old bikes, traded parts, and moderated a few antique motorbike forums together. We first met because of a shared love of riding old motorbikes – not just restoring them. However, we had never met face-to-face.

In preparation for the trip, I built a “new” hot rod Harley from a basket case sold to me by Cliff. The goal was to bring the bike out to Colorado and beat the snot out of it in the mountains. Then, COVID happened and everyone plans got thrown out the window.

In the case of the Rocky Mountain Chapter they were forced to cancel the Road Run earlier this year after they completed almost all the prep work. This means the routes were laid out and tested, the home base checked out, and maps prepared. All we had to do was show up and run the routes anyways. And with that, the first annual Freedom Ride invitational was held.

Three of us showed up. Don’t laugh, we had fun AND represented two chapters. Leading the run was John Weber, President of the Rocky Mountain Chapter. Cliff is secretary of the Chapter. Me, I’m a Badger proudly representing Illinois and Wisconsin. John was on some modern BMW I can’t remember – Cliff chose an early 80s Shovelhead and I beer-rented a 1973 Harley Sportster nick named The Great Pumpkin. Over three days we put 500 miles on our bikes. We crossed several passes over 11,000 feet, rode the steepest continually paved road in Colorado, and even managed to visit a cannibal massacre site. Here’s a recap of our adventure:

Day One: Gunnison to Buena Vista via Cottonwood Pass
We all arrived Sunday evening in bustling Gunnison, Colorado. To say the town was packed is being kind. There were no hotel rooms to be had and the average wait at a restaurant was 45 minutes. It was actually wonderful to see the town so busy. It also meant no one noticed the old motorbikes and we didn’t have to worry about security very much.



Monday dawned bright, but with the promise of 95-97 degrees and full sun. So, we lit out for higher elevation.





Our first run took along Hwy 742 to Taylor Park Reservoir. From there, we caught Hwys 209 and 306 up and over Cottonwood Pass (Elevation, 12,200). The bikes never missed a beat and the scenery was outrageous. It was great fun playing in the mountains and simply beating the snot out of the bikes. We stopped at the top of the pass to take pictures and enjoy the view. It was great fun seeing snow still on the pass. However, I nearly had a heart attack pushing the Great Pumpkin over to the pass sign for a photo op. Being from Chicago . . . I forgot 12,200 is a wee bit higher than Lake Michigan.






The fun part, however, was forgetting to check the fuel level in the Pumpkin before taking off. As I was rolling up Cottonwood Pass, I hit reserve. Problem is that we had almost 40 miles to go and I was getting 35mpg with a .9 gallon reserve . . .so I did a lot of coasting and put 4.2 gallons in a 4.4 gallon tank. I literally shook the bike side to side to get enough fuel into the carb. It was great fun and made me smile like I was 16 again and hunting for change to fill up my bike!

We then rode over to Buena Vista and enjoyed a nice lunch.





Being the odd one – I opted for a lunch of Pecan Pie and French fries. It was glorious and just the fuel needed to ride back.

Total mileage was just over 147 miles for the day.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Day Two: Lake City and the Cannibal Trail

Lake City was supposed to be the “light” day of riding with only 110 miles planned. However, it turns out we all share a bit of love of the macabre and the ride “grew” a bit. In the winter of 1874, a local guide named Alferd Packer was hired to escort a group of five men from Lake City to an Indian Agency some 75 miles away. Two months later, Packer was discovered alone but surprisingly well fed. It soon became clear Packer butchered and ate his companions. He tried all sorts of defenses, but was eventually convicted and served nearly 20 years for the crime. He became infamous after a local official declared: “Alferd Packer, you man-eating son of a bitch; there were 7 democrats in Hinsdale County and you ate 5 of them.” Being practical people, the students at University of Colorado, Boulder renamed their dining hall in honor of Packer in 1968. Today, the Packer Dining Hall’s motto is: Have a Friend for Lunch. We also found it very comical the highway beautification outside of Lake City is sponsored by the Hinsdale Democrats. All sorts of irony there.

Well, with a story like that, we had to go and see the massacre site. What we learned is that the site is about ½ mile from downtown Lake City, Colorado. Packer could have easily walked into town even in the snow . . .and suddenly all three of us understood why Packer was so quickly vilified.

The ride itself was spectacular. We rode Hwy 50 out to the Blue Mesa Reservoir and then south on Hwy 149 to Lake City. We then rode up and over the Slumgullion Pass. Though it’s “only” 11,500 feet, Slumgullion is the steepest paved road in Colorado at 9.4% We enjoyed a nice leisurely lunch, but were disappointed to learn there were neither finger sandwiches nor manburgers on the menu.

Our total mileage for the day was 137-ish. Neither “old” bike missed a beat, used any oil, or left a stain.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Day Three: Black Canyon and Blue Mesa

We saved the “long” day for last and rode from Gunnison to Delta via Hwys 50 and 92. Our plan was to hit Montrose and cruise back on 50, but road construction and 95 degree temperatures ensured we baked when we dropped onto the mesa by Crawford, Colorado. So, we “only” rode 205 miles. The day was nearly perfect. The roads were largely clear of traffic, the sun lovely, and we were all in the right mood/mode to enjoy the day. Hwy 92 as a more technical road to ride, with lots of off camber and blind turns, as well as sharp u turns on the switch backs. It was a delight and we did our best to grind pieces off the bikes.

We stopped and enjoyed a lovely lunch in Crawford, Colorado. As we came out of the café, there was an older gent with a cane and big American flag do-rag, with overalls and bare feet. He smiled and asked who was on the sportster. That triggered a trip down amnesia lane, which ended with the following moniker: “Speed safely, boys.” It sort of became our unofficial mantra for the ride home.


All in all, we covered about 490 miles. I averaged 35mpg on the Great Pumpkin and had not one bit of trouble with the old girl. Everywhere we went, groups of riders on late-model Harley and Indians kept stopping to look at the sportster, with several snickering about the bike. All were soundly impressed when the bike started instantly and rode away without fuss. We changed at least a few minds on the road run about the practicality of old bikes.

As I like to say: “the bike has no idea it is old – it can’t think, it can’t age, and it can do everything now that it could do the day it left the factory.”

It really was a shame the National was cancelled. However, it also brings up something – what if there were a “smaller” version of a national, somewhere between a chapter ride and a full national. Call it 50 riders max without all the bells and whistles. Just a route sheet, basic logistics, and an admonition to have fun. As a further “what if” --- what if these smaller events were open only to those AMCA members who were also members of a Chapter as a way to promote Chapter membership? This wouldn’t diminish the Nationals as they would remain open to all AMCA members. However, as someone who chose to join the Badgers because of a National Road Run – it could be powerful incentive for those sitting on the fence about joining a chapter.

I’d like to thank John Weber and the Rocky Mountain Chapter for the work they did to organize the run that wasn’t, but was. It was great fun and I hope to join the Rocky Mountain crew for future runs.

[jcrawford]

Steve,

I really enjoyed your story for three reasons. First, I had lots of fun at the Rocky Mt. Chapter's Nat'l Road Run based in Gunnison, CO back in 2004. The day we rode through Crawford
had me grinning even more as that's my name. I was riding with Roy Reeves from Austin, TX and other AMCA friends. Locals told us that Englishman Joe Cocker had a ranch near there though we didn't see him in the village that day. As I recall, we saw a lot of what you did, but not Packer's historic site, which leads to my second reason. In 1968 I was a student at CU in Boulder when the Student Union Building dining hall was renamed the Alferd Packer Memorial Grille! Third reason being not so fun though, as I am trapped here in Vancouver by the Canada - U.S. border closure extension to "non-essential" travel until at least July 22. This is right in the middle of the upcoming Billings, MT Nat'l Road Run that I have been anticipating since it was initially planned by the Yellowstone Chapter and had to be cancelled last July. So your story is a bit of a diversion to the frustration I have about not having travel freedom restored for those of us who are fully vaccinated!
Thanks for your story,
John

[chuckthebeatertruck]

Thanks for sharing your story, John. It's great to see these personal connections.

I first learned of Packer from my late friend Tom who was a DU student in the mid-70s. I still find it one of the funniest stories -- especially being Boulder. Getting to see the site (or what they said was the site) snapped the whole thing into focus.

Rumor has it the Rocky Mountain Chapter may host "round two" of this run in 2024. I hope for the sake of other members they do so -- it was great riding. I've only done one other national road run so I can't really do a compare and contrast; but I found everything more than adequate and encourage the Chapter to take it on for '24.

And, sorry to hear you remain trapped in the frozen north -- soon, soon your COVID freedom will come. It does stink you're gonna miss a road run. One of the highlights for me last year was the fact the Badger's were able to host their 2020 National (and it was a GREAT time).

If it's any consolation -- the biggest issue we ran into on this trip was the lack of service help. Every single business we went into -- whether gas station or hotel -- had a help wanted sign in front. Most places are operating with 1/2 to 2/3rds of normal staff and almost every meal was an exercise in patience. Prices were also very, very high for both food and accomodation. We oft found ourselves paying 2 to 3 times the normal rate for basic hotel rooms. Most were in the $250 range for $100/nt rooms. We even had challenges with the fuel stations being "dry" at times!

So, while most US states have "gained" their freedom -- the after effects continue in unexpected ways. In this regard, it was a blessing that the ride was cancelled. While the Chapter was ready -- the local businesses were not. Both big and small towns just weren't ready for having 150-200 bike enthusiasts descend on them. 10-15 people screwed them up pretty badly. Crested Butte, where the ride was to be based from, had only just started getting moving and fully 1/2 of the restaurants were closed or in the process of renovations for the upcoming ski season.

[Rubone]

Top of Slumgullion Pass on my way home from the Gunnison National RR in 2004. Coming over from Lake City gave me the opportunity to follow the Rio Grande from it's headwaters right to my back yard. DCP_0753.JPG

[frichie68]

Joe Cocker owned & lived at his "Mad Dog Ranch", owned the ice cream parlor in Crawford & ran some kind of school for underprivileged kids there as well. The ice cream parlor was biker-friendly & signing the guest book got me a cool Mad Dog Ranch pin (still have it!) & family Christmas cards the next few years. I had a nice chat with Joe in the parking lot where he pointed out his wife's Harley trike & apologised for part of the parking lot was still gravel & treacherous for bikes. I don't recall the year but it was prior to 2001 when I left Colorado.

[Rubone]

Joe Cocker owned & lived at his "Mad Dog Ranch", owned the ice cream parlor in Crawford & ran some kind of school for underprivileged kids there as well. The ice cream parlor was biker-friendly & signing the guest book got me a cool Mad Dog Ranch pin (still have it!) & family Christmas cards the next few years. I had a nice chat with Joe in the parking lot where he pointed out his wife's Harley trike & apologised for part of the parking lot was still gravel & treacherous for bikes. I don't recall the year but it was prior to 2001 when I left Colorado.

There was a BMW rally annually in Paonia and Crawford always got lots of visitors. But the best event ever was the Velocette Owners Club International meet held in Crawford. Some of the coolest iron ever and attendees from all over the world, NZ, Australia, the UK, Europe, and the US, Canada, and Mexico. The Mad Dog Cafe was quite popular with those guys! They rode hundreds of miles daily throughout that area.

[chuckthebeatertruck]

But the best event ever was the Velocette Owners Club International meet held in Crawford. They rode hundreds of miles daily throughout that area.

I have never met a Velo owner who wasn't a bit nutty about riding them . . .and I bet they did have a blast. I adore thumpers and the few rides I've had on 500 Velos were just lovely experiences. I likely would get myself in serious trouble with a light, fast single on those mountain roads.