Trailer & Tools for the Cannonball

[BoschZEV]

a window air conditioner compressor which is relatively silent.

This reminds me that 20 years ago I was at a conference in Crete where my room had an air conditioner that was virtually silent. I'm reminded of that every time I stay in a hotel and the window A/C sounds like a diesel truck starting in my room each time it kicks on. It was hot and humid in Crete but that A/C unit -- I still remember it was made by Sanyo -- had no problem keeping my room cool and comfortable. I know from this experience that it is possible to make a very quiet compressor, but for some reason they're all quite noisy.

[ihrescue]

I really like this thread. Always interested in how others plan. One thing recently caught my eye in regard to silent compressors. I follow all kinds of mechanical YouTube channels from tool restoration to will it start junk yard iron rescue. One guy The Post Apocalyptic Inventor from Germany does some pretty cool scrap yard rescues and reuse of discards. @ 16:52 minutes of this video link he takes a common electrically powered air compressor and swaps the extremely noisy motor and compressor with a window air conditioner compressor which is relatively silent. I never would have thought of that. The window air conditioner has a self contained electric motor to drive the compressor. It is worth exploring when you need a quiet compressor. Here is the link if anyone is interested. https://youtu.be/weywkv6KzHk Is there anything about this that will not meet the needs? Of course in this case it goes through processes of upgrading the electrical phases using electronic gear.

Mike Love

[BoschZEV]

Seriously though, do you have a list of things to carry on the bike during the day?

Mine was a 1928 Ariel with exposed valves on which I had O-ring primary and drive chains so some of the tools are specific to that.

Fire extinguisher on rear fender (required by Cannonball rules)
Saddlebags with all of the following:
1 gal. spare fuel tank (carried only on one day where more than 100 mi. between gas stations)
Tappet adjusting spanners
(3) 2-oz. bottles of 2-stroke oil (2 oz./tankful)
Modified small grease gun for valve guides and rocker tips
First aid kit:
-- aspirin, Benadryl (for bee stings), Imodium AD, Tums, alcohol wipes, and antiseptic ointment as well as assortment of small and large bandages
O-ring master link press
O-ring master link removal/press kit
Tire tools:
-- 3-leg wheel stand
-- Motion Pro BeadPro bead breaker
-- (2) Motion Pro Bead Buddys
-- (2) Motion Pro Rim Protectors
-- (3) tire spoons
-- talcum powder tire/tube "lube"
-- New tube
-- Male and female tube stem fishing lines
-- Strap
-- Bead lubricant
-- Brush
-- Baja No-Pinch with male adapter
-- CO2 tire inflator with extra cartridge

I'm sure there are items whose names aren't self-explanatory (e.g. 3-leg wheel stand), so feel free to ask for explanations.

In addition to the above, I also had the tools listed below on the bike every day, all of which fit in a Moose Racing 'Rear Fender Pack'. Over the past 20 years I've only missed a couple of times to ride in the Irish Rally and I've refined my toolkit over that period based on breakdowns I observed. Any breakdown I saw that could have been fixed on the side of the road with a tool or spare I didn't have in my toolkit resulted in me adding it for the next year. Any two tools that could be replaced by one, got replaced. Over the years many people have been able to continue on their way thanks to this toolkit, rather than having to spend the rest of the day riding in the breakdown van. There was an article about my toolkit in the AMCA magazine a few years ago.

Each year at this rally ~150 bikes, all older than 1960, cover ~500 miles so in ~20 years I've observed over 1 million old-bike-miles worth of breakdowns, and refined my toolkit based on this wealth of data. Although I only need tools for British fasteners for my own machine, I also have A/F and metric because of breakdowns I saw that I could have fixed for others (helping people is why I started this thread, although trolls proved yet again that no good deed goes unpunished...).

Anyway, the tire tools in my toolkit somewhat duplicate those listed above, although the ones above make changing a tire much easier (e.g. the above tire irons have a lot more leverage).

PVC rain cover for the Moose bag
Tools (tires):
-- (2) Tire irons
-- Patch kit: grit cloth, (4) packets alcohol wipes, 1.5 mL vial isopropyl, glue, large patches, stitcher
-- Key for unscrewing valve inserts & tap/die for fixing threads
-- (4) Schraeder valve inserts
-- Tire pump
-- Tire pressure gauge
Tools (other than for tires)
AF combination: 5/l6", ⅜", 7/16", ½", 9/16"
BS combination: 3/16"–⅞"
Metric combination: 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 mm
Shortened-handle ¼" breaker bar w/ 3" extension & universal joint
¼"-drive sockets: 5/16", 11/32", 12 mm, ½", 14 mm (for BA, BSW & AF)
¼"-drive metric sockets: 8, 10, [12], 13, [14] mm
Allen wrenches: 5/64"–5/16"
Allen wrenches: 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, and 10 mm
4" & 8" Crescent wrenches (½" & 1⅛" max. openings)
6" needle-nose Vise Grips
6" needle-nose & wire cutter
5" needle-nose & wire cutter
4" wire cutter
4" Channel-loc pliers
Multi-bit screwdriver: (4) flat, (2) Philips & ¼" socket adapter
Offset screwdriver
Offset Philips screwdriver
Chain breaker
Small jackknife
Tools (electrical):
Wavetek DM78A digital multimeter (ac/dcV, Ohms, diode tester)
High voltage leakage tester (neon tube)
Tools (ignition):
Spark plug box spanner
Spark plug gapper
Feeler gauge set (0.010–0.035")
(2) ¼"~4BA magneto spanners
6" machinist's ruler marked for BTDC timing
Diamond points file
5×, 5× pocket magnifier
#240 Emory paper (2"×4" piece)
Spares (Electrical):
(2) B7ES plugs (pre-gapped to 0.018")
0.18 µF film/foil condenser w/ 2 alligator clips
0.18 µF film/foil condenser
(2) carbon magneto brushes w/ springs
2' spark plug wire
(2) nut/bolt for battery terminals + (2) 6-32 screws with nuts and washers
Spares & Tools (Amal):
Monobloc: float spacer, needle clip, pilot air screw & spring, 276 & 389 gasket sets
Concentric: needle clip, pilot air screw, drain plug /w o-ring, gasket set
#78 drill bit pilot jet reamer
Monobloc & Concentric: float needle, (3) float bowl cover/bowl screws
Spares (Mikuni)
needle clip
Spares (Miscellaneous):
Clamp-on cable end nipples:
-- ⅜" dia. clutch/brake
-- ¼" dia. clutch/brake
1 ft. ¼"-dia. fuel/oil line
(2) hose clamps
(2) master links for 530 ⅝×⅜ drive chain
1 & 3-link 530 ⅝×⅜ chain segments
(2) master links for 530 O-ring drive chain
1 & 3-link 530 O-ring chain segments
(2) master links for 428 ½×.335×.305 single-row primary; C15 drive
1 & 3-link 428 ½×.335×.305 segments
(2) master links for 428 O-ring primary chain
1 & 3-link 428 O-ring chain segments
(2) master links for ⅜×5/16
(4) ¼-28 bolts w/2 wash. & 2 nuts (½" >1½")
(2) 5/16-24 bolts w/1 wash. & 1 nut (1" & 1¼")
Other:
2 ft. 12 AWG jumper cable with large clips (~40 A continuous)
3 ft. 18 AWG jumper cable with medium alligator clips
2 ft. 18 AWG jumper cable with small alligator clips
2 ft. 16 AWG electrical wire
Roll electrical tape
(3) 5-minute epoxy packets
Small bar of soap
Small amount of ETTurn petcock lube in plastic bag
1.4 oz. tube high temp RTV
Locktite repair putty
(2) 4"×4"×0.031" gasket material
6' steel wire, 0.040" dia.
6' waxed cotton string
6' nylon string
(8) 5 in. plastic zip ties
(3) 10 in. plastic zip ties
Shop rag
(2) Pair vinyl gloves
(4) Handiwipe packets
Mini-first aid kit (band-aids, alcohol wipes, Neosporin)
Mini-Maglite flashlight
5 ft. gas siphon hose
8 ft. nylon strap/tow rope

[No Rush]

Harbor freight sells a $9.00 12V air compressor. Remove the cover and you can remove the motor and the plastic gear from the compressor. With the gear removed you can attach a cordless drill to the shaft and life is good.

[d_lasher]

>> http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbth...ild#Post790953

>> I hope those of you who are getting ready for next year's Cannonball find at least some of the information in that thread useful for your own preparations. If you've haven't done the event before, you'll have a >> very memorable time (and if you've signed up for the event for a second time, are you nuts!?...). Good luck to all of you.

Thanks for the thread, I'm going to have to buy a lot of tools to bring all that.

Seriously though, do you have a list of things to carry on the bike during the day?

[BoschZEV]

assuming it's not being run in our summer it shouldn't be to bad.

I forgot to mention, it's for bikes made in 1948 or earlier.

[Peter Cooke]

"Note that it crosses the Nullarbor desert which, from what I've read, would mean I'd have to add a 500 gal. tank of potable water to my trailer to have a 50/50 chance of surviving that leg of the trip."

Ha, perhaps not that much but yes, some water will be handy!

As aumick says, the fuel stops are only ~140 miles apart and assuming it's not being run in our summer it shouldn't be to bad.

[jwl]

And you had quite an adventurous solo ride this year didn't you?

Yes I did. Bad weather back home forced me to cut it a little short. Left the bike at my place in AZ and flew home.
I respect the Cannonballers but that style of riding doesn't appeal to me at all. When I go on a trip I usually leave on a whim and go for it. If I had to line up a mobile machine shop and find someone to chase me I would lose interest before I even took off. But again, that's just me. Riding with 100 + bikes and all the hoopla that goes with it would be too intimidating for me. I envy and respect those who do it though.

[aumick10]

I have ridden and driven most of that route more than a few times, and I agree with you. Take water.
The furthermost fuel stops are about 220 km, (140 m) but expect it to cost 4-5 times what it is here in the US.

It sounds intriguing, I will consider joining this trip.

[BoschZEV]

Thanks very much for that.

I won't speak with David until tomorrow afternoon my time but I've received more information that doesn't mention his name so he may not be involved. I used Google maps to plot a route between every location mentioned in the information I have to generate the attached map. The information says the actual route will cover 3100 km / 5000 mi.

Cannonball_Australia.jpg

Note that it crosses the Nullarbor desert which, from what I've read, would mean I'd have to add a 500 gal. tank of potable water to my trailer to have a 50/50 chance of surviving that leg of the trip.

[Rubone]

Nothing at all against the Cannonball but your suggestion works best for me. I don't play well with others. It's my problem though, not theirs.

And you had quite an adventurous solo ride this year didn't you?

[jwl]

The "Cannonball" is turning into yet another bad joke. Just get on your old bike and go for a ride....

Nothing at all against the Cannonball but your suggestion works best for me. I don't play well with others. It's my problem though, not theirs.

[Peter Cooke]

I don't,* but I will be speaking with Dave on Tuesday on another matter and I'll try to remember to ask. Meanwhile, the contact information is ipcannonballclassic@bigpond.com

*other than it will start at Busselton Jetty, Western Australia on the Indian Ocean and end 5000 km later in Eden, NSW on the Pacific Ocean.

Thanks very much for that.

[BoschZEV]

if these guys don't want to go on your adventure, you're best off leaving without them. I am always grateful to see how people solve problems and read your write up with interest.

Thanks very much for your post. Unfortunately, it is the internet, after all, which means there will be trolls.

Just for lights and cordless tool charging I think one could run of a battery which was charged by the truck during the day. I'd probably skip air tools entirely on the road there are electric ,(corded) impact drivers and does grinders which could be run from a small generator. I don't think there are quiet air compressors.

I tried to make that list as comprehensive as I could to help anyone preparing for the Cannonball for the first time get ready. I found no such list when I was getting ready for the last one, and it would have helped me had such a list existed at that time. As I wrote in that other thread, the list wasn't just of everything I saw in a catalog, it was tools that actually were used on the Cannonball to keep the 90+-year old bikes going.

I have a very handy battery-powered impact wrench that I used on the Cannonball, but I also own air tools. If I had a portable compressor anyway, the air tools would take up very little additional space in the trailer at no cost to me since I already own them, and without me having to buy battery-powered equivalents. One time in Montana I needed to remove some metal that was rubbing on the chain and the guy parked next to us fired up his compressor and loaned me his grinder so I could do that. It would have been a lot more effort to remove metal from that location with a file.

I didn't count them, but there were at least a half-dozen teams on the Cannonball with air compressors. They certainly do make a lot of noise, but that noise is lost in the confusion when there are 100 people working on their bikes in the motel parking lot in the evening. Firing one up at 2am is another matter, but sometimes people did fire up their bikes at 2am to check that they ran after having worked on them for the past eight hours. Somehow it's different when you're awakened at 2am by a fellow competitor who has succeeded in getting his bike running, than by some jerk thoughtlessly starting his bike at 7am.

As the measurements in that other thread show, that single 1x2 ft. LED panel over the workbench provides plenty of light shadow-free there, and can be powered for ~4-5 hours from the truck battery before draining it more than it should be. However, if more time than that is needed, or more lights added (e.g. to a pop-up canopy), an additional power source will be required. That could be in the form of a generator or an auxiliary battery.

Adding electric brakes to my trailer is the last thing remaining to do, and I haven't yet decided on the details of the wiring. The trailer will need a battery for the breakaway system, and one thought is to make a tray big enough to hold the battery I use with my DocZ rollers so it could power the lights as well.

My only other suggestion is that you could have hung the Struts for the LED light with self-starting sheet metal screws or pop rivets and saved some awkward Weldon.

It took several attempts with sealant, each time I was "sure" I had fixed it, before I managed to stop a pesky leak from a vent someone had added to the roof using pop rivets. Since drilling holes in the roof to attach the LED panel would have risked a leak directly onto that panel, and from there onto the workbench, that simply wasn't an option. The welding certainly tested my acrobatic skills, but without risk of causing a leak. Risk of causing a fire, yes, but not a leak...

[fciron]

Different strokes for different folks. (I can't shake the two-strokes, myself. ��)

BoschZEV, if these guys don't want to go on your adventure, you're best off leaving without them. I am always grateful to see how people solve problems and read your write up with interest.

I bought an off-brand competitor of the Honda EU which is nicely functional. I was camped next to a guy with the Honda in October and the 5 db is much bigger than expected and if I might have paid almost twice as much for the Honda of I had heard them side by side before purchasing. I absolutely would go for the Honda of I though I might need it at midnight in a hotel parking lot.

Just for lights and cordless tool charging I think one could run of a battery which was charged by the truck during the day. I'd probably skip air tools entirely on the road there are electric ,(corded) impact drivers and does grinders which could be run from a small generator. I don't think there are quiet air compressors.

My only other suggestion is that you could have hung the Struts for the LED light with self-starting sheet metal screws or pop rivets and saved some awkward Weldon.

Thanks for sharing.

Lewis