Electrical Problem

[JDC22]

I got my 48 Chief out of the shed after a long New England winter, and unlike it's usual reliable self it won't start, and blow's the 30 amp fuse as soon as I put one in (out the positive lead from the battery) I've checked for shorts or frayed wiring and can't find any. Any suggestions where it might be...thanks

Joel

[AdminGuy]

My long distance continuity abilities just ain't what they used to be. I shall try.

Ground fault short? head lamp, gen., hidden under something and makes contact when compressed/tightened down. With the minimal amount of wires try to break it down into sections. Use a multi-meter.

Big chief use meter- solve problem fast.

[JDC22]

Thanks..I figure it's a short, just not sure how to go about isolating and finding it. I have a meter- could you walk this electrical dummy through what to be testing where? My neighbor should be able to help too...he's good with the meter whereas I am not...I know it's something simple..I'm just too stupid to figure it out! You'd think a guy who lives and works in Springfield area would be a little brighter when it comes to his Indian...oh well. I can always ask Butch if I get real desperate...

Thanks for your help.

[AdminGuy]

Multimeter 101

Un hook batt. Volts will blow(peg) your meter if it is set on ohms. do not kick. You test volts by bridging. Test for ohm's (very sensitive) in line w/ probes -Looking for infinity resistance reading (indicates open/break). A reading of something else will indicate continuity. A closed circuit.

Individual components can be checked this way also. Rotate but do not spin the component. Check ign. switch.

Do a physical insp. first. Remove stuff. Check the underside of wires. Try to determine if you have a ground fault short. Which seems you do. This could be a simple vibration or friction rub. Check grommets. R&R.

Refer to your schematic and use half-splitting to narrow it down/isolate problem.

Do you know how to properly solder a new connection? Ask a pro to give you a quick demo. Soldered connection, bullets, etc. Will impeed corrosion and improve current flow. Use 60/40 rosin core(thin stuff). Touch 3 sec. -then touch w/ soldered to bridge heat trans. - touch again from opposite side to flow solder. 7-8 sec total per. nice smooth silver looking. Clean tip on wet sponge before you put it down. Ready to go for next one.

Use proper period covering material. But under that or hidden you could use heat shrink wrap. Pls don't use blk elect tape.

I'm being very general. I'm not very smart. So if your an electrician (out there) cut me some slack. Or add to this post. You would know better than me.

Thanks - hope this helps.

[JDC22]

me thinks you're plenty smart and the self-deprecation isn't needed! Thanks..this does help. I actually had a fellow local AMCA member over Sunday, and as neither of us were great with the meter we simply started disconnecting things one at a time from the ignition switch until the fuse stopped blowing, and it turns out to be a light, just not sure which one yet. This weekend I will try and nail it down. Any suggestions on a source for period cloth covered wire? I can't find any visually chaffed wire, but will again through process of elimination try and isolate the faulty wire/light.Sound right to you?

Thanks for your assistance...I'll keep you posted.

Joel

[AdminGuy]

Thanks Joel- check universal joint of light mount. Wires pinched? Is a bulb holder making contact with the backing shell? Insulate w/ shrink on wire (cover connector also) or custom cut a poly soda bottle (german cross or flower petal shaped insulator) in such a way that it doesn't make contact with the bulb reflective surface (light beam focus?). Scratching bad.

Remember- you don't need current to get a reading w/ an ohm meter (greek symbol) . 200K ohms or 2000 ohms -stick your probes on the furthest point of leads. A connection. Infinity bad (far left a digit symbol of "1"). A resistance reading good. Your meter completes the circuit, or loop. Black in COM port. Red in "V/greek". Well... on a big portable meter. Don't forget to turn your meter off. Save battery. A 20 fuse better than 30. esp if your running elec ign.

Most likely I will get more heat now about not writing articles for the magazine. I am meeting more and more guys now with incredible collections that many members would like to see, I feel. Great stories, cool stuff, a life time of knowledge. Come -on guys! Write a story! Take some pictures! Send it in!

You are not alone. Basic electrical stuff is a mystery to alot of guys. Including myself alot of the time. I try to read as much as I can. From as many different sources as I can.

I would have alot of fun writing a DIY free guide of the basics for antique motorcycle electrics. Cause, effect, solution. In a super condensed format. That would be cool. Maybe someday? I'm still learning.

Title: How to avoid pushing your antique motorcycle 3 miles....up hill.

Side story: "We pushed that magneto 101 all over the place in 36. We finally gave up and bought a car." hummm...and who did you sell that 101 to?

Howard Wagner has cloth covered wire & connectors. A couple others do also. Majors have covering also. Leather sheath is nice....Hummmmm I should color code my schematic now that I'm thinking about it. Wow! That was easy to say. Another thing to do it.

[JDC22]

well..I finally got it running, buthad to disconnect the horn to do it! I couldn't find a frayed wire or anything like that, but by the process of elimination, when I disconnected the one of the leads to the horn....voila-no more blown fuse! Could there be an internal short in the horn itself (an older Sparton) or maybe in the horn switch wire inside the bars? The wires from the dash/ignition to the horn seem fine. Very strange...any suggestions on testing this problem? YOu also mentioned a 20 amp fuse in the fuse holder...is this generally what is used? When I got the bike 4 years ago it was using a 30 and always used the same. Pros or cons? Finally...the bike won't shift into 3rd gear...is this a stuck clutch plate? Is there a way to get it unstauck, or is this a signal to get in there and start replacing the clutch? Thanks for all of your help!

Joel