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hard starting 49 pan

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  • hard starting 49 pan

    In the summer I would give my pan 2 prime kicks with full choke.It would start ok cold.Had trouble with a warm start.Now that the weather is cooler,I found that I would only give 1 kick with full choke.Sometimes it starts and sometimes it don't.Plugs and points ok.Any suggestions before I sell it and buy another easy starting WL or Chief.

  • #2
    Always check your timing. Lift front push rod covers. Put front exhaust tappet at lowest position. Make sure the timing mark on the flywheel is at it's correct poistion. Check to make sure the points rider (fiber) is directly over the timing mark on the timer shaft. Single bulb timing light lead should be connected to rear post of coil and to battery positive terminal. Jumper wire clipped to battery neg. post and "D" ring screw (for ground), lamp bulb will go "ON". Turn ignition "ON", lamp will go out. Lamp should re-light the instant the timer is retarded (by hand). If so, motor is correctly timed. That's the quick explanation...but with a plumber-nut intake, you have at least two areas where you could have a leak (at either ferrule)..seven if you count (and you must) the intake spigots, rivets and manifold flange...but at least you know the motor's timed,... even if it won't start. There's a similar problem with OldMans Pan over on
    http://www.hydra-glide.net

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    • #3
      Or maybe you have a minor intake leak.
      Try the bubble test: http://virtualindian.org/11techleaktest.html

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      • #4
        hard starting pan

        also check the valve lash adjustment. check the carb. float adjustment. do a through tune-up or find someone who knows what he is doing.

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        • #5
          1949 STARTING

          IT MAY SOUND SIMPLE,BUT HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT A WEAK SPARK THROUGH YOUR CONDENSOR IN YOUR DISTRIBUTOR????

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          • #6
            H-mmm. Bad condensers usually keep the motor from starting at all. Remove the timer cap and the plugs, then connect the rear cable to the rear plug. Lay the rear plug (grounded) on the top fin of the head. Turn the ignition "ON". The plug may still arc a spark, but it will be pale blue or yellow. Next observe the points as you hand crank the motor over. If there is no spark across the points, this condition can indicate a failed condenser. Turn the ignition "OFF".
            What kind of carb are you running? Every "thing" is everything. The difference between practicing medicine and mechanic-ing is that usually a patient can tell you where it hurts. Motors are reluctant to speak, so a mechanic needs to know all the deviations of accessories added or deleted since the machine rolled out of the showroom. Hook a compression guage up to the cylinders and check the valve or ring seating. What color are the plugs? Front runs more like tan. Rear usually blacker with dry soot, but never black and oily.

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