1929 Harley Model B Single

[KnucklePanFlattyMan]

I'm looking for parts to rebuild the carburetor on my 29' Model B. It has a GX 1 Carb. I don't see any other markings on the carb but figure someone out there knows more about this. It's running the way it is but the float works then doesn't work and starts spewing gas through the breather hole. I take it back apart check it out, clean it up, put it back together and it's fine at first but then starts overfilling again. ?????????? Any help would be appreciated.1929 HD model B pic13.jpg

[T. Cotten]

Tom!

With eight GXs on the bench, four of them GX-1s, I am only beginning to study the variety of these Scheblers.

Some hardware is similar to other models, and Fickau Prototypes has stocked me with float valves, needles, etc.
But some items such as chokelevers and the like must be "one-offed", until someone is ready to step up to the plate and produce them.
(There was an add in "Walneck's" for reproduction bowl covers.)

Before we address your flooding problem please let me ask: Does this occur while sitting, or running?
Is your petcock sound?

....Cotten

[KnucklePanFlattyMan]

29' Model B Carb

Tom!

With eight GXs on the bench, four of them GX-1s, I am only beginning to study the variety of these Scheblers.

Some hardware is similar to other models, and Fickau Prototypes has stocked me with float valves, needles, etc.
But some items such as chokelevers and the like must be "one-offed", until someone is ready to step up to the plate and produce them.
(There was an add in "Walneck's" for reproduction bowl covers.)

Before we address your flooding problem please let me ask: Does this occur while sitting, or running?
Is your petcock sound?

....Cotten

Thanks for the reply, I just rescued this bike from many years of storage. The petcocks were frozen and clogged. I worked them loose and blew them out but they may not be sound. I cleaned the carb and got it running on my lift only. I got it running and starting fairly well and adjusted up the carb to get it revving good then adjusted on the timing and it was responding well. Then the carb started spewing gas out the breather hole while running and revving. It's as if the needle doesn't stay seated, not sure why. Once taken apart the needle will seat fine again. I'd like to get a new needle, seat and float if I can find one that will work. The rest of the carb seems ok so far.

[KnucklePanFlattyMan]

Badger 34, Sorry my VIN doesn't match your Grandfathers but good luck!

[T. Cotten]

Did I get your name wrong?
(This forum's' format hates anything but my oldest PC, and leaves me guessing!)

So it is a running over-flow,..

GX models had a brass float by design, and all of the hassles attached.
The first diagnostic is to take the float back out and shake it, to see if fuel has entered. Leaks can be found by placing the float in a vessel of hot water, and observing the bubbles.

The valve itself should be slightly open in operation anyway.
So we must inspect for anything that would rub or hang up the assembly in service, such as wear upon the pivot pin, etc.
Fresh needles and seats are available from Mr. Fickau as I mentioned, and they seal miraculously, but it may not be the issue!

....Cotten

[KnucklePanFlattyMan]

Did I get your name wrong?
(This forum's' format hates anything but my oldest PC, and leaves me guessing!)

So it is a running over-flow,..

GX models had a brass float by design, and all of the hassles attached.
The first diagnostic is to take the float back out and shake it, to see if fuel has entered. Leaks can be found by placing the float in a vessel of hot water, and observing the bubbles.

The valve itself should be slightly open in operation anyway.
So we must inspect for anything that would rub or hang up the assembly in service, such as wear upon the pivot pin, etc.
Fresh needles and seats are available from Mr. Fickau as I mentioned, and they seal miraculously, but it may not be the issue!

....Cotten

I'll check the float again. When I had it out before it didn't feel like anything was inside but it had been repaired in the past. Does Mr. Fickau carry the floats as well? The second time I took it apart I cleaned out/ off the needle and seat for any little imperfections. They could just be worn as could the pin or lever. What is the contact info for Mr. Fickau ( phone/website)? I will double check everything on it but while the carb is empty it seems to all work as it should. If the parts are available I would prefer ordering as complete kit as they have so I can eliminate all possibilities. Thanks again, Allen

[T. Cotten]

Allen!

Mr. Fickau's email is FickauPrototypes@cs.com, but he is currently absent for military obligations.

He stocks my DURABLE floats, however they replace conventional cork and composites for other Scheblers and Linkerts, not brass designs.
I created a couple for the GX, using a fastener design to give it "ballast" to approximate the originals, however neither of the fellows who received them ever reported back with an assessment.

I guess that means I was at least close.

Nonetheless, an original float should be dressed of any excess solder, and given the hot water test. If it passes, then we must point our finger at the valve itself.

Typically, the valve needle wears to an inverted bell shape.
Even with a fresh seat, a positive action is hindered by the change in geometry, at least.
My own 'one-off' replacements were hit-and-miss, whereas the Fickau replacements drop in amazingly well.

(Beware Folks, that there are at least two other sizes of floatvalve needles for Scheblers over the years.)

And please understand that with the diversity of these carburetors, a "kit" cannot be expected to be thorough, nor accurate.

The float pivot pin and bearing cap screws are nearly identical to pre-War Linkerts, and easy to replace.
The lever bore can be gently squeezed, and then reamed for an extended life.

I am searching my notes for the source of reproduction bowl covers just to see if gaskets are offered!

....Cotten

[KnucklePanFlattyMan]

Cotton,

You called it right. I finally had a chance to take the float back out and it has a small pin hole and is collecting gas. It is the brass float and has been repaired several times before. It still looks repairable but if you can provide a new replacement I would be interested. Let me know if you can help and what the cost would be.

Thanks, Allen

Allen!

Mr. Fickau's email is FickauPrototypes@cs.com, but he is currently absent for military obligations.

He stocks my DURABLE floats, however they replace conventional cork and composites for other Scheblers and Linkerts, not brass designs.
I created a couple for the GX, using a fastener design to give it "ballast" to approximate the originals, however neither of the fellows who received them ever reported back with an assessment.

I guess that means I was at least close.

Nonetheless, an original float should be dressed of any excess solder, and given the hot water test. If it passes, then we must point our finger at the valve itself.

Typically, the valve needle wears to an inverted bell shape.
Even with a fresh seat, a positive action is hindered by the change in geometry, at least.
My own 'one-off' replacements were hit-and-miss, whereas the Fickau replacements drop in amazingly well.

(Beware Folks, that there are at least two other sizes of floatvalve needles for Scheblers over the years.)

And please understand that with the diversity of these carburetors, a "kit" cannot be expected to be thorough, nor accurate.

The float pivot pin and bearing cap screws are nearly identical to pre-War Linkerts, and easy to replace.
The lever bore can be gently squeezed, and then reamed for an extended life.

I am searching my notes for the source of reproduction bowl covers just to see if gaskets are offered!

....Cotten

[T. Cotten]

Allen!

I have no floats prepared, as the first two were experimental, years ago.
(And the impending international Davenport Meet looms over me like a storm...)

You would do best to attempt a re-solder, as there is little to lose.
Warming it all under a heatlamp first will expand the air inside, helping to prevent the soldering heat from blowing another pin hole, or sucking one before it hardens.

....Cotten

[KnucklePanFlattyMan]

Cotton, I finally got all the gas out of the float and checked for leaks. It leaks from almost all the previous repairs as well as a couple other spots. It has 5 or 6 leaks that I know of. A new float is probably going to be needed. I will see what I can do with the demolition derby loser of a float that I have but am definitely interested in finding another. If you see one in Davenport keep me in mind and if you think you would have time to try making another once you get time I am looking to get one. I will keep my open for one elsewhere as well. I appreciate all the help. I don't know how something that should be protected inside the carb could get so beat up, it looks like someone has been beating on it with a hammer from every side. Thanks, Allen

[T. Cotten]

Allen!

Some of the GXs on my bench are in worse condition than any that have ever come in the door, including older HXs, or later models that burned.
The condition of brass floats just illustrates the problems of a brass float, just one of which is folks messing with them.

It will be some time after Davenport before I have time to conjure a new one.
It must be tested upon a machine that is not breaking in a new motor, as there may be trial and error involved.

Sadly, I can rarely get out of the booth to search for resources. And unfortunately, prices seem to escalate when they see me coming, so my folks always do better to deal for themselves.

....Cotten