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1960 Sportster - new member

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  • 1960 Sportster - new member

    I am a new member to the AMCA (from Canada), and currently "rebuilding" a collection that used to contain a mint Honda 305cc dream and other odd ball bikes. I had zero issues with these bikes and rode them, recklessly, everywhere under the moon.

    I have a lead on a 1960 Sporty (no pics or details yet..waiting for it later today) and wanted to ask for some advice. I have NEVER ridden a Sporty of this era, and was hoping folks could give me some advice.

    1) What is the reliability and availability of parts like on the older Sportsters?
    2) Any advice on what I should be looking for (i.e. odd modifications, etc)?
    3) Any gauges on pricing?

    Note: I realize this is so wide open, as I know nothing about the bike yet, patiently waiting pictures. I do know it is a 3rd owner bike, "original (will wait and see on that), and it was a "kitchen find" and it is a runner.

    Many thanks for any advice or helpful hints.

  • #2
    Early Sportsters can be harder to find original parts for than a Knuckle or Pan. Buying a 3 owner bike in original condition would be a great start. Definitely worth paying extra money for a machine like that than a bargain that has thrashed, broken, customized and passed around with many owners. The old Sporties are always fun to ride when the're right. Good Luck
    Kyle Oanes AMCA # 3046

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    • #3
      Mechanical parts are not much of a problem to find. Like anything else the sheet metal, guages, exhaust, ETC is always a challenge. eBay helps a lot.
      Be sure to visit;
      http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
      Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
      Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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      • #4
        Amca rule of thumb. "If you can see it, you're going to pay for it"
        AMCA #3149
        http://www.thegoodoldmotorcyclepartscompany.com

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Robert Luland View Post
          Amca rule of thumb. "If you can see it, you're going to pay for it"
          That's going to be my new favorite quote Bob.
          Eric Smith
          AMCA #886

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          • #6
            winnipegtibook
            Check carefully on the main case behind the front sprocket in the area of the countershaft bearing for cracks or repairs. This was a weak area because the case has a counter bore inside to run the speedo. Sometimes they pressed a reinforcement ring on the inside and then removed the speedo drive behind low gear if it was only cracked, this was the non welding repair. When they were welded you usually lost the speedo drive counterbore. They also made a replacement casting for that corner of the main case a major repair for big blowouts. Most of this damage was caused by guys doing burnouts with there sportsters. When the speedo drive was moved to the front wheel the case was reinforced and became a non issue.
            Jim D
            Jim D

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            • #7
              I have acquired all of the stuff necessary to restore the 1964 CH that I butchered back in 1968. It took me almost 5 years to find the correct, working horn and I won't embarras myself by stating what I paid. And I gave the original horn away 1968 along with many other original parts in almost-new condition !! But most internal motor parts, frame parts, transmission parts and other mechanical parts are readily available. Original front fenders are out there at the meets as well and on ebay (usually on ebay for unreasonabe prices). Correct rear fenders and are becomming more difficult to find. Consumables like original tail light lenses are always difficult.

              Jim D's advice is the only caution. The lower right corner of the cases did blow out occasuonally under the transmission as the ring gear on countershaft 1st gear wore out and the counteshaft end play increased and mis-aligned itselfe withthe differential speedo drive gear. The protruding boss that supported the right side of the countershaft was not up to the task of supporting the loading and the entire areas was, generally, too weak. This was remedied around 1973 when the lower case was thickened and the speedo drive was reloated. HOWEVER, if the 1960 that you are interested in has a pristine transmission section, chances are it was one of the 'better-machined' cases. If it were me, I would remove the ring gear from countershaft 1st, thus rendering the speedometer inoperable. It's a better alternative than a blown right case. It can be made operable again by re-installing the ring gear.

              But this stuff is all part of the challange. If I were you, I would just buy that bike and jump in !!
              Last edited by billpedalino; 04-03-2011, 08:07 AM.
              Bill Pedalino
              Huntington, New York
              AMCA 6755

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