1946 Chief Front Brake Cable...solder or crimp??

[Steve Hill]

I am installing a new front brake cable on my 46 Chief and am curious. Does the nipple that attaches to the lower end of the cable get crimped or soldered...or both? I tried solder and it wont stick to the cable or migrate into the fitting even when applying flux and plenty of heat. I would think the capillary action would draw the solder but it just beads up and falls off. I am stumped. I wouldn't want the nipple to slide off when I had a panic stop and threw a gorilla squeeze on the brake (we all know how effective the brakes are!) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks a bunch. -Steve-

[BONES47FL]

Re: Brake cable...

On my '46 Chief, it is soldered. Maybe you are using wrong solder? Though, I don't know what type is correct. Bones...

[Steve Hill]

Thanks Bones! I tried cleaning the cable with enamel reducer (getting rid of any grease), re-fluxed everything, scrubbed the inside of the nipple and fluxed that, applied the heat until HOT and once again the solder just ran off like water off a ducks back. Maybe you are right....I may be using the wrong type of solder...I am using lead free (like domestic water line solder). Maybe I need a lead type, acid core or something. Anyone else wish to toss in your experiences? -Steve-

[exeric]

I've had the most success with 50/50 solder with either a tinning paste or liquid solder flux for sheet metal. 50/50 solder is 50% lead and 50% tin. You can get a 1 pound spool from McMaster Carr. You have to be careful with the heat as you can get the object too hot and it will reject the solder. I generally use a big soldering iron but for your application, a propane torch will work. You should let the flame lick the object and bring it slowly to temperature. You want the object to be hot enough to melt the solder and not use the flame to melt the lead. It's a delicate balance. You should clean your parts with a wire brush, steel wool, soap and water, or a metal etch. You don't want to use anything that will leave a residue that could contaminate the flux and solder.

[Steve Hill]

Thank you Eric, that is exactly the information I was looking for! -Steve-

[Jack K]

Steve,
If you are still having trouble getting the end on your cable try this.

Melt some automotive type wheel weights in a cast iron pot (an electric lead melting pot for moulding bullets is perfect) and while the lead is melting lay the cable and end on top of or over the pot to heat. When the lead is melted, scape the slag off the top, dip the cable in muriatic acid, slip the end on the cable and dip into the molten lead, it should suck it up and stick. If you can find an engott of plumber's lead it would work better. I've resorted to wheel weights because I've not been able to find any plumber's lead in these parts lately.