Parkerizing

[billpedalino]

I've been parkerizing miscellaneous small batches of parts for my '47 for about a year or so with mixed results. Even within the same batch, some parts come out very dark and well-coated and some are grey and appear to have acquired a thin coating. I've tried switching to different makes of the solution and have varied the temperature from 135 to 175 degrees F. with no success. I'm even using distilled water and I spray each part with WD-40 immediately after I remove it from the solution and I then immediately dip it in hot motor oil. The parts that turn out dark look great. The problem parts remain a problem.

The latest problem is with an intake manifold. It's new (TED) and appeared to have a very thin layer of cad plating. I glass beaded the cad off (it came off like silver paint) and dropped the manifold into the solution. After turnng it for 45 min., it turned grey/white, while the other small carb linckage parts in the same mix turned dark black. I figured that possibly some of the cad plating was blasted into the metal when I initially glass beaded it, so I then hand-sanded it using emery paper. Next day, back in the solution with only marginally better results, at best. Again, other parts came out fine.

Any suggestions - I REALLY need to finish this motor for the Oley meet.

[rwm]

do you soak your parts in acid before you parkerize. i think your glass bead is not removing all the old parkerize or skip the wd 40

[jwl]

I've noticed that different types of metal take on parkerizing differently. Who knows what kind of crap the Chinese put in the Tedd's manifold. Keep in mind that back in the day the MoCo didn't do all the parts for a particular bike in the same batch so I would assume that new bikes had varying shades of parkerizing too.

Why do you spray WD=40 on your parts before dunking in hot oil? If the WD cools the parts before going into the oil then they won't take on as much oil.

I do my parkerizing on the top of an electric range. I keep the parts in the oven on low heat before I put them in the solution. My results vary slightly too.

Good Luck!!!

[Chris Haynes]

Not all metals react the same to being Parkerized.

[Rod K]

Bill: I have had good results from parkerizing, and it's fun to do. I've done some zinc and cad items with mixed results. Sometimes bead blasting them again, and reparkerizing has worked. It seems that hardened parts will not take the solution properly no matter what.
For parts that just won't take the solution, I use Brownells "Aluma-Hyde Dark Parkerizing Spray" Ya it's paint, but just a light mist coat over the top of the piece makes it look just like the rest of the batch. It's also good for the one or two pieces you forget to throw into the tank, and need at the last minute. brownells.com part # 083-002-812 Dark Parkerizing
Browenells is a gun and supplies catalog. They're in Iowa. Hope this is of some help...Rod

[Chris Haynes]

I have opened NOS Knuck Parkerized parts and found the Parkerizing so light and thin you can see through it.

[exeric]

Throughout the motorcycle, H-D used high carbon steels, low carbon steels, and for non-critical high volume parts they used a lead/steel alloy commonly called leadalloy. It's only logical, as Chris stated, that these steel alloys are not going to react to the Parkerizing the same way. The bottom line is; you're going to have to live with the different colors of Parkerizing. In my opinion, that is a more realistic restoration because that's the way H-D's actually were.

[cdndewey]

My buddy called me and gave me this website to check out. Has anyone tried any of the parkerizing kits from www.calvan.com ?

[exeric]

I am currently using that brand. Works great.

[cdndewey]

Thanks Eric.....I'll have to get some.

[Chris Haynes]

They guys at Harbor Vintage sell the good stuff.

[Robert Luland]

How about Palmetto in South Carolina. Anyone using this stuff?

[Chris Haynes]

I use Parker Luberite #2 made by Henkel Corp. I buy it in 15 gallon barrels and share with my friends.

[billpedalino]

I solved the problem. I was using No. 10 glass bead and it did not provide enough of a surface profile. I suspect that some of the impuraties were also left on the base metal. I switched to a double-zero grade of glass. It is a little more aggressive and left a slightly deeper profile. The manifold turned out great!

Thanks to you all for your assistance!

[cdndewey]

I have to deal with getting it to Canada. I have a buddy in WA that I can get things shipped to and then get another buddy to bring it over to the mainland, but trying to bring 15 gallons over is a bit much. If I can get a gallon or two, that works for me, so what are my best options?

Thanks