Rear wheel juice brakes

[portagepan]

Ok now I'm confused. Does anyone know the exact rear wheel brake cylinder for the '58 to '62 Harley Panheads? I have two i got, and sure enough they are different from each other. One has huge 1 1/8 inch cups, the other is 15/16. The spacing on the mounting holes on the smaller bore is 1 3/8". The spacing on the larger bore one is just 1 1/4" I figure oneis possibly for the newer models, after '62, or maybe a servicar? All I know is, one of them sure isn't right. I don't have a backing plate to check the fit. So many people have been asking about these I figured I would build up a few original sets, completely restored and take them to some swap meets, put them here for people, on our site. The one stickler I am learning about in the old wheel, and master cylinders is to get ALL the rust out. A couple different ways, I guess.torch'em, or use the prcocess engine rebuilders use with the tank, and chemicals. The one wheel cylinder does not say Wagner Lockheed on it. Just the numbers y 23 05. The bigger one does have the name, and G on one side, and on the other it has FD-15429 USA. Anyone know for sure on these?
Thanks, Mike

[LouieMCman]

I just replaced my '65 cylinder, the original was the a wagner G FD-15429. So, that one is for the later models which should be different than your 58-62.

[portagepan]

Thanks Louie. I am having the old brake parts bead blasted, and cold acid dipped. Then I will hone them and put in NOS rebuild kits.

[koanes]

PortagePan, Could you elaborate on "cold acid dipped"? What is the acid, and is it for rust removal? Thanks, Kyle

[portagepan]

Yes. Engine rebuilders use it on cast blocks. I don't know about using it on anything other than cast iron. Some auto machine shops do this regularly for people. This is the first time I have had it done. I will let you know the results next week, when I get them back. I am still having a problem with identification of the wheel cylinders. I just got a Harley rebuild kit, in a box marked just with a pen, # 41748-63. If the 1 1/8" cylinder I have is rthe right one, this kit definitely won't work. It is way too small of a diameter. I have that other wheel cylinder which is supposed to be for the earlier juice brakes, and it is too small for that one too. I know this is just what we all have to go through, but it sure gets frustrating at times. Especially when one doesn't have a lot of money to play with. I mainly hope that our questions and answers in the forums will not only help each other now, but save members in the future from having to go through some of this. Ofcourse, that would suppose someone is documenting it all. And it ain't me babe.
Mike

[portagepan]

And so it goes.......... Well, I found that part of my confusion was the fact that the cylinder rebuild kit I got was for a servicar brake. Someone made an assumption, and wrote the wrong part number on the box, and didn't check it first. I did get all my money back, plus shipping and a nice explanation/apology. At least some people are still honest to deal with, and stand behind what they sell. Another thing. I really don't like paying someone else to stand in front of a blast cabinet with my parts, so I just got some 170/325 grit glass bead media, and tried it on a few things. Wow!! A night and day difference. Talk about something looking nice! I am defintely going to try this on some wheel spokes, to see if it looks loke cad plating. It sure did on some cast parts I tried it on. It isn't cheap, and I paid to have it delivered, but with the price of gas now days, rhe cost of driving a vehicle, and the fact that it is not available in my area, paying for delivery makes dollars, and sense, too. I got mine from Enco. Order one day, get it the next! How do they do that? Iv'e tried plastic, before, but this glass bread is the way to go for fine stuff. And it really does the work, too. I just tried it on part of an old rusty cylinder, and it worked there too. Mike

[MJW]

I don't know if I'm buyin' it but I've read some opinions about glass beads getting impregnated in the alluminum when used on engine cases, Then becoming dis-lodged in service,circulating with the oil. I think a good scrub job should take care of any residue but it's somthing to consider. They do a beutifull job of hideing case repairs! Mike

[portagepan]

Yes, I would think the beads are best fot the outside. I am honing and polishing the cylinders, so hopefully I won't have any problem. I do think I will go back to just burning out the rust on small parts with a torch. The other processes I have checked on all seem to be pretty agessive, and can cause more damage if not done JUST right.