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  • #31
    BINGO !! You named it ! The rear exhaust seal was completely off the guide . I am going to get the heads done . The valves were at the limit of there tolerance , so might as well go for new seats ) . I am going to post another thread to find a shop that does heads . Thank you for sticking with me thru this . I'll let you know how it all turns out . Best regards, Mike

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    • #32
      That shouldn't even matter as they never had seals to begin with. If that was the issue you are way over oiling the top end or it isn't returning.
      Robbie Knight Amca #2736

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      • #33
        After thinking about it , I agree . This 1971 motor had a AMF 1200 to 1340 kit put in it (16175-78 ) , which I believe would make it a stroker ? So if the pistons were changed , and non stroker pistons were put in would that hinder the oil return ( draining ) ?

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        • #34
          For anyone that cares at this point ! The pistons are fine I removed the rear jug nothing is blocking the return .
          I am going to put the stock pump back on & If the tappets still clatter when the oil gets hot ( the reason I started all of this ) I will go to solids .
          Thanks to everybody for all the help , Mike

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          • #35
            After all the work you have into this now, I think you are making a mistake. Try the new pump first after you fix the heads. If you don't like it, then go back to what you had.
            But it is your bike so good luck with it.

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            • #36
              A valve guide seal that is loose and riding up and down on the stem will act as a pump and force oil down the guide and make it smoke more than if you had no seal at all. As for replacing your seats what is your valve stem protrusion? You can run shovel valves a lot deeper than what HD tells you with no problems.

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              • #37
                I remember one of the original oil passages on the RH case near the breather valve gear needed to be tapped and a plug installed. If that has been done I just cannot see it in the pictures. G/L

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                • #38
                  Thanks D.Ed & TomL . I agree with the " seal acting like a pump " but it only smokes at idle , NO smoke when the rpm's are up , make's me think it has to do with the bypass valve ??
                  As for the breather tapped hole & plug , I did that ( I got an A+ from S&S on my case alterations ) I sent them the same pictures as on this thread .

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                  • #39
                    Changing cylinders and pistons with out changing the crank shaft only makes the motor a "big bore". 1200/74 is 3 31/32" stroke, 1340/80 is 4.25". So technically not a stroker. The oil drains down through cylinder passage and dumps in crankcase below piston skirts. How do you know the motor does not smoke at road speeds as its kind of hard to look back and see smoke unless the motor is a skeeter smoke machine! I would suggest a wet and dry compression test if you have not done one, could be a ring issue. G/L

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                    • #40
                      Thanks TomL ,
                      As stated earlier in this thread this motor has a AMF Harley 80 inch kit( 16175-78 ) in it ( 4.25 stroke ) . I can see the smoke disappear when the while is sitting and crack the throttle . The rings are fine .

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                      • #41
                        Final report on this . I put the stock oil pump back on , plus solid lifters . Bike runs great ! NO smoke ! Sending the oil pump back to S&S for checking . Will post the findings .

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                        • #42
                          Well this is the final , FINAL report on this . I sent the pump back to S&S . They tested it & said it was good . They then said they got in touch with an old tech that worked at Harley .
                          He said that " stock crankcase surfaces change over time & are not as flat . Then when you install the billet pump it causes weird things to happen . He has seen this happen before ".
                          They also said that they were sending the pump back to me ( saying , "you might be able to use it on a future build " ) , along with a check for " FULL reimbursement " ( $ 466.48 , purchased on ebay ) !! I thought that was incredible !!!! S&S has my business forever !!
                          I am still running the bike with the stock pump as stated in the prior thread & is still running great ( knock on wood ) . Thanks again for everyone's help .

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                          • #43
                            And congratulations to you, Mike! Perseverance pays off!!!!

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                            • #44
                              Originally posted by 1970 XLCH View Post
                              Well this is the final , FINAL report on this . I sent the pump back to S&S . They tested it & said it was good . They then said they got in touch with an old tech that worked at Harley .
                              He said that " stock crankcase surfaces change over time & are not as flat . Then when you install the billet pump it causes weird things to happen . He has seen this happen before ".
                              They also said that they were sending the pump back to me ( saying , "you might be able to use it on a future build " ) , along with a check for " FULL reimbursement " ( $ 466.48 , purchased on ebay ) !! I thought that was incredible !!!! S&S has my business forever !!
                              I am still running the bike with the stock pump as stated in the prior thread & is still running great ( knock on wood ) . Thanks again for everyone's help .
                              I have used S&S products for years. Good products and now, exceptional customer service. Good luck.

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