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Complete knucklehead heads from Tedd's V-twin.

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  • Complete knucklehead heads from Tedd's V-twin.

    A friend recently bought a set of assembled 1940 to 1947 knuckle heads from Tedd and we are wondering if a guy can 'put them on and runn'em' or are there things we need to check first?

    Jerry

  • #2
    Check anything before you use it.
    Be sure to visit;
    http://www.vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/main.php
    Be sure to register at the site so you can see large images.
    Also be sure to visit http://www.caimag.com/forum/

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    • #3
      Anything from V-Twin with moving parts. Probably those without moving parts, too!
      VPH-D

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      • #4
        Knucklehead Theology did a review on those heads. You might want to read what he had to say http://knuckleheadtheology.blogspot....klehead%20Tech

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        • #5
          My concern with anything from Ted would be linear to my opinion of his business ethics.
          The Linkert Book

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          • #6
            thanks for the link Tom O', great read. I am using older but unused VTwin heads and cylinders that came with my 41FL.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Tom O'Ryan View Post
              Knucklehead Theology did a review on those heads. You might want to read what he had to say http://knuckleheadtheology.blogspot....klehead%20Tech
              I would say a must read here. This would be a product that could be used if re worked by a pro shop to make it function properly.
              #7558 Take me on and you take on the whole trailer park!

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              • #8
                Just like anything else, new, used, or repop. The heads I got with my pile of parts have already been gone over. One issue I had was just over a 1/8" gap between the heads and an aftermarket manifold. I turned two rings 1/16" by the O.D. and I.D. of the manifold and slipped them into the seals to keep the manifold centered.











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                • #9
                  Sure you don't have 61 and 74 parts mixed up in there? The 61 manifold is shorter and the cylinders are shorter. Might have 74 cylinders and 61 manifold. Just asking.


                  Tom (Rollo) Hardy

                  AMCA #12766

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                  • #10
                    Hi Rollo, the manifold is 3 9/16"

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                    • #11
                      FNG1!

                      It looks like a Colony manifold.
                      An eighth inch on each side works with properly fitted PEEK seals. No spacers necessary.

                      I'd bubble-test the inlet nipples and whatever that is for a rivet before I worried about the manifold width...

                      Good luck,

                      ....Cotten
                      AMCA #776
                      Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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                      • #12
                        Hi Cotton, thanks, I am putting together a pressure tester today. How much pressure, 5, 10, 15 PSI? All of my bikes had spigots, (Triumph), rubber bands or O rings and were checked with carb cleaner or an unlit propane torch after startup. I have almost no experience with plumbers style manifolds. Thanks for any input. Should I use any sealant, or silicone grease, or just clean brass. Not going with peek unless I have issues, or is that what everyone uses? Should (or can) you anneal the brass.
                        Last edited by FNG1; 09-12-2018, 05:20 PM. Reason: Added pic

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                        • #13
                          I did the pressure test and it looks like the front head to the intake nipple leaks.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by FNG1 View Post
                            Hi Cotton, thanks, I am putting together a pressure tester today. How much pressure, 5, 10, 15 PSI? All of my bikes had spigots, (Triumph), rubber bands or O rings and were checked with carb cleaner or an unlit propane torch after startup. I have almost no experience with plumbers style manifolds. Thanks for any input. Should I use any sealant, or silicone grease, or just clean brass. Not going with peek unless I have issues, or is that what everyone uses? Should (or can) you anneal the brass.]
                            FNG1!

                            15 is the perfect overkill.
                            But it must be a constant 15, not trapped by a Schrader valve. Some leakage is to be expected, and your regulator must be allowed to compensate.
                            Please remove the heavy hardware from your plate and install a simple nipple that can accept light vinyl tubing. It makes it much easier to keep the manifold from moving after it has been lightly tightened while mated to the carb.

                            (The un-lit torch is the only practical way to find leaks between carb and manifold, or throttle bushing play,.. big ones anyway.)

                            Grease (or messy anti-seize) was traditional for brass ferrules.
                            Same for PEEK.

                            Brass can be annealed maybe.
                            PEEK works maybe.

                            ....Cotten
                            PS: I'm surprised that's the only leak!
                            Last edited by T. Cotten; 09-13-2018, 02:57 PM.
                            AMCA #776
                            Dumpster Diver's Motto: Seek,... and Ye Shall Find!

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                            • #15
                              Hi Cotton, thats it just, the one leak. Ok, I used 3 PSI constant. I plugged the exhaust and intake and it is the nipple. Now what? I read to remove the rivet and tighten the nipple more. what if i can't get past the old rivet hole? should I cut multiple slits in it and try to collapse it? Would heat help to remove it? Thanks for all the help.

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