info for 1965 xlch sportster

[aka HAWG]

can someone help

I have a 1965 xlch sportster and I believe the bottom end is full of oil and need to drain it, I cannot see a drain plug anywhere - am I missing it in my looking.

if no plug how do you drain oil from the bottom end - motor is still in frame

I removed the timing hole screw - when I kick the motor over it shoots oil across the garage.

I just purchased the bike - it has sat for over 5 years and never kicked over during that time

aka HAWG

[Chris Haynes]

Strange thing about drain plugs. Some have them and others don't. They are located under the primary cover on the side, not the bottom.

[koanes]

If there isn't a drain plug for the crankcase located below the flywheels near the case mating surface, you can either use a syphon gun or the old fashion method with lung power. You need a small diameter tube such as aquarium air line. Stick it down thru the timing plug hole. You might want to warm things up a bit to get the oil to flow easily.

[aka HAWG]

thanks for the input

heating up the oil would help but this is some of the problem, with the bottom end full of oil it is very hard to kick it over, and the oil shooting across the garage with timing hole cover off do not want to run it - if I can get it started

aka HAWG

[koanes]

I wasn't very clear, I meant to say warm the oil in the crankcase with a heat source like a heat gun or hair drier so it would be easier to syphon.

[joestuff]

Take off the plug or oil light sensor off the front of the oil pump, and the fitting that holds those on. Then pull out the ball and spring, and it should drain from there. Might take a while.

[Thumper]

All Ironhead Sportster cases have at least one(centered in middle of trans housing) gearcase drain. Unless it has been welded up, alot of them were welded up in the old days because at the time the heli-coil was not such a plentifull item. As the years progressed they added the one on left case under primary. I believe 72 (I'll have to check) they added the one under the flywheel ass. (in the case) so that what little oil was held could be drained w/oil change was done(also helped to scavange pieces of a broken ring-piston in case of topend failure). Pulling the sending unit off the front of oil pump, along w/check ball & spring will not do you any good. It will not effect gearcase oil, it will however drain your oil tank.
Gary
THUMPERS Inc.

[aka HAWG]

time to ask another question

I want to take the magneto out of the bike and use points - what timer do I need to look for

I know I have to change other things to make work but having trouble with mag and like the points set-up better - also want the headlight on due to provincial law and safety

any help accepted

aka HAWG

[koanes]

The hard thing about this conversion is finding a place to put the battery. I have a 65 XL timer I would sell if you are interested. Since you are removing the mag from the CH I guess you're not too worried about originality. The 65 timer is a 1 yr only, the 66-70 is a little different.

[aka HAWG]

I will send you a pm thanks

aka HAWG

[Chris Haynes]

can someone help

I have a 1965 xlch sportster and I believe the bottom end is full of oil and need to drain it, I cannot see a drain plug anywhere - am I missing it in my looking.

if no plug how do you drain oil from the bottom end - motor is still in frame

I removed the timing hole screw - when I kick the motor over it shoots oil across the garage.

I just purchased the bike - it has sat for over 5 years and never kicked over during that time

aka HAWG

If you start the bike the engine will purge the excess oil by itself. Be sure you have a pan under it.

[aka HAWG]

thumper - it is not the gearcase I had questioned it was the crankcase

manuel ( chris ) that would be a great idea to try but when was the last time you tried to kick over a motor that was filled with 5+ year old SAE 50 oil - and a magneto ignition. this is the reason I needed to drain the crankcase, so I could get it to kick over easier

I removed the ball and spring - kicked a few times and let sit for about an hour and repeated till no more oil driped from the engine

aka HAWG

[Chris Haynes]

thumper - it is not the gearcase I had questioned it was the crankcase

manuel ( chris ) that would be a great idea to try but when was the last time you tried to kick over a motor that was filled with 5+ year old SAE 50 oil - and a magneto ignition. this is the reason I needed to drain the crankcase, so I could get it to kick over easier

aka HAWG

I quit kickin' as soon as I bought one of these.
http://www.doczintl.com/docz_interna...lo_starte.html

[Thumper]

Mag to Dist swap.......

Would have to go w/the 66-74 (or so) oil bag & battery box. Go w/CycleElectrics gen if not wanting the extra wiring(& reg) to contend with. If needing any parts(including dist) contact me have everything you need to do the swap-over.
Gary

[Coolbreeze]

Draining oil / replacing oil tank

Trading the "CH" oil tank for one with a cavity for the battery should not be hard. There are dozens of people like me who would gladly trade a battery tank for the CH version.

About your problem with draining oil: All I have to do with my '60 CH is let it sit for a few weeks, and "presto" a good amount of expensive H-D oil has found its way out of the engine onto the floor!