Sportster Kick Start Issues

[Powerlifter626]

Hey guys still rebuilding my early Sportster motor and trying to improve the kick start assembly. I read somewhere that there only exists 3/32" clearance and this is the main problem for slippage....Also read that the clutch spring that engages the kick start gear is weak and a "poor excuse for a spring" any beefier replacement springs or any way at all to improve this set up before I put the motor back together.

Another issue I have is I want to try and improve engine performance...Have heard the early models vibrate a lot and a remedy for this is changing the transmission sprocket from a 19 tooth which is the stock sprocket to a 21 or 22 tooth sprocket? Con I hear is less low end power and more high end power. I have no problem with this as I am not racing her, any input on this change? I value all your opinions.

Anything else I can do while the motor is apart? Anything I should change, swap? I know guys replace the Cams with performance ones but don't know much about this or how it will affect the engine. Just looking for input while this motor is apart so I don't have to break it down again. Thanks guys, I look forward to hearing what you have to say.

-Paul

[vph-d]

If there is ANY play at all in the ratchet plate or bushing get replacement parts. There was a repair kit made for early model kicker assemblies that was available back in the 70s, it might still be around.
Once you start the kicking process, do not release pressure on the lever to "cock' your leg.
This can allow the gear to partially disengage/back away from the ratchet plate on the clutch drum, causing the lever to slip when kicking. After enough of this slipping, you need to replace the kicking parts again.
VPH-D

[Powerlifter626]

Hey, Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. I talked to the guy rebuilding my motor and we are going to go with the larger Tranny Sprocket either 21 or 22 tooth to lower RPM's and vibration. I was told there is nothing you can do to "Improve" the Kick Start Assembly, it was just a poor design. Everything will be replaced to ensure it will last a long time, and I guess I will just deal with this because it is an inherent problem with these old Sportsters. I won't be riding this daily so hopefully after the rebuild it will last a while before I need to repair the kicker parts again. Now I am on the hunt for the proper Tranny Door so I can finish my build.

Thanks again for the advice.

-Paul

[Powerlifter626]

"Kicking Back"

Another Issue I had was the motor "Kicking Back" when I was kick starting her. It did not always happen, but every now and then it did. I know theoretically that advancing the distributor would prevent the "Kicking Back" or at least thats what i was told. Even with the distributor advanced it still kicks back a little........Any ideas? or is this just one of those things I have to deal with as well.....I think I'll just try to find a hill and pop the clutch, seems like the safest method of starting this machine....

-Paul

[jmanjeff]

Paul
If you have the distributor advance set correct you should not have a kick back problem

[vph-d]

Does your XL still have the left grip advance/retard function? If so, assuming proper timing, retard the spark to ease starting effort.
Once you start the kick stroke, you must follow thru' don't stop part way thru or it can kick back.
VPH-D

[Hrdly-Dangrs]

Changing up to a larger gear will

lower your motor's RPM's at any given speed. So at 45-55 you will definetly feel a smoother ride overall. Vibrations as felt thru the handle bars will decrease.

However, your powerband will change. So you'll find you'll need a little more throttle when pulling away from a stop and there's a tendancy to have to down shift into third going up a steep hill. This is more noticeable when riding two-up.

You probably won't have to do much modifications going to the larger gear with the exception of a little longer chain. However you may need to trim the kicker/sprpcket cover a little where the chain enters the top section.

I run my 74 XLCH with a 23 Tooth. Takes a little getting used to but a definetly improvement at 55-65 cruising speeds.

Make sure he replaces the bushings where the kicker shaft passes thru as stated by someone else. Wear in these bushings causes the shaft to tilt ever so little but that wear combined with a worn kicker gear assembly in the primary will make for some rather funny knee bending angles. Hrdly

Hey, Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. I talked to the guy rebuilding my motor and we are going to go with the larger Tranny Sprocket either 21 or 22 tooth to lower RPM's and vibration. I was told there is nothing you can do to "Improve" the Kick Start Assembly, it was just a poor design. Everything will be replaced to ensure it will last a long time, and I guess I will just deal with this because it is an inherent problem with these old Sportsters. I won't be riding this daily so hopefully after the rebuild it will last a while before I need to repair the kicker parts again. Now I am on the hunt for the proper Tranny Door so I can finish my build.

Thanks again for the advice.

-Paul

[mmoore]

Another Issue I had was the motor "Kicking Back" when I was kick starting her. It did not always happen, but every now and then it did. I know theoretically that advancing the distributor would prevent the "Kicking Back" or at least thats what i was told. Even with the distributor advanced it still kicks back a little........Any ideas? or is this just one of those things I have to deal with as well.....I think I'll just try to find a hill and pop the clutch, seems like the safest method of starting this machine....

-Paul

arrrrrgggg!!!!!!!!!!! advancing will teach you to fly!!!!! retard your spark to start it (if you have manual control) believe me flying is only fun in a plane!!!
lots of excellent advice above in these posts