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I use 3M weatherstrip adhesive on one side of a cork gasket. It keeps it from squishing to the side when you tighten it down. Cork seems to be the worse for moving on a surface. I hold the cork down with clothes pins until the glue is dry.
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Sorry, no. It was a passing thought that never materialized. Cover is still leak free.
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Originally posted by Snakeoil View PostGood tip. Rarely stop by the HD dealer anymore. Have no need for chrome doo-dads or leather underwear.
Will fill the crankcase today and fire her up to see how well she is sealed. Irv said he remembered Mike buying a repop cover in the white and having it plated. As I worked on making sure the flange was flat, I was not impressed with the cover. Flange is a little skimpy and there was a deformed area at 6 o'clock. Squeezed it in the vise with aluminum jaws trying not to hurt the nickel, but it cracked anyway. I can live with it. Better a crack in the plate than a leak. May see if I can find an original.
Had a brain phardt this morning and conjured up a finned aluminum cover design in my head. Irv said Indian found that 70% percent of the cooling for the engine is thru the oil and only 30% via air. So, a finned fron timing cover would be a good improvement if I can get it to fit with the extra thickness of the fins.
regards,
Rob
I am thinking I would make a finned cover with a filter being part of it and was hoping to see an example
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Originally posted by partshunt View PostIf you have smooth true surfaces, you wont need any gasket goop.Can you picture them fellas on the assembly line dinkin with cans of gasket goop all over the place?. They dont have the time to paint or spray gaskets. The only time to use any dope for a gasket is contact type cement on one side only to keep a snaky weaving long gasket in position on assembly. The type of gasket that could drop out of position on assembly. Dry gaskets on dry surfaces wont "sh%t out of position...
I read all the application info for the various Permatex products and decided on the HighTack, because it is just as you described, a contact cement. Time will tell if it holds up in service.
regards,
Rob
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If you have smooth true surfaces, you wont need any gasket goop.Can you picture them fellas on the assembly line dinkin with cans of gasket goop all over the place?. They dont have the time to paint or spray gaskets. The only time to use any dope for a gasket is contact type cement on one side only to keep a snaky weaving long gasket in position on assembly. The type of gasket that could drop out of position on assembly. Dry gaskets on dry surfaces wont "sh%t out of position...
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Have only been able to find Hylomar on EBay to date, excellent sealer.
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Just thought I'd follow up and report that after several rides totally a whopping 14 miles, the high tack worked fine. Gasket stayed in place and dusty dry.
Still need to get some Hylomar. Gonna get an extra tube as a present for Irv.
regards,
Rob
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Good tip. Rarely stop by the HD dealer anymore. Have no need for chrome doo-dads or leather underwear.
Will fill the crankcase today and fire her up to see how well she is sealed. Irv said he remembered Mike buying a repop cover in the white and having it plated. As I worked on making sure the flange was flat, I was not impressed with the cover. Flange is a little skimpy and there was a deformed area at 6 o'clock. Squeezed it in the vise with aluminum jaws trying not to hurt the nickel, but it cracked anyway. I can live with it. Better a crack in the plate than a leak. May see if I can find an original.
Had a brain phardt this morning and conjured up a finned aluminum cover design in my head. Irv said Indian found that 70% percent of the cooling for the engine is thru the oil and only 30% via air. So, a finned fron timing cover would be a good improvement if I can get it to fit with the extra thickness of the fins.
regards,
Rob
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Irv also likes Hylomar. Could not get it locally. Graingers sells it, but would have to order it. Might as well order it on-line.
I considered #2 Permatex and Super High Tack. I decided that since cork gaskets like to squirm and flow out of position and the bottom half of the cover is always in oil, high tack might be a better solution. So that's what I used.
Irv said if it fails again, to cut a gasket from thick paper gasket material. That's what I'll do if I have to and by then should have Hylomar or can try Permatex #2. High Tack has to sit for 3 hours before being stressed so I'm just going to leave it over the weekend and put new oil in the engine at the beginning of the week.
regards,
Rob
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Can't speak to what may have happened to that cover before I owned the bike. The elongated holes do raise the question regarding fit and such.
I've heard others, mostly in the UK mention Hylomar. I'll see if I cannot locate some.
I did find another issue when I checking the fit of the cover to the engine. The large cotter pin that holds the collar in place for the idler gear hits the cover. I suspect this may be a repop cover and the cover was not dimpled deep enough. So, I spoke with Irv Truax and told him I wanted to replace the cotter pin with a 5/32" roll pin and he agreed that was a good solution. I did dish out the cover a bit on my shot bag with a dead blow mallet. With the cotter out, the cover comes down nicely now.
regards,
Rob
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Looks like the gasket isn't shaped correctly on the right side.
VPH-D
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are you sure someone did not remove the cover than replace it . some of the screw holes look to be punctured twice.
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Originally posted by Snakeoil View PostI'm thinking of using Permatex Aviation Formagasket. But I'm open to experienced suggestions for a better choice with known results.
http://www.hylomarsealant.com/
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