Hoover R&R w/ Timken Bearings. Too fat....

[AdminGuy]

The Timken replacements on my rear axel (640) appear to be wider. The cup and cone when mated are wider. This makes me think that I may have to plane down the thickness of my axel lock washer and nut by approx 3/16" to get the speedo tabs to engage properly and the speedo to mount flush to the sprocket lock nut.

Has anyone else had a simular experience? Is it just me?

I've lit a fire under this project now. After four solid days of striping, painting, spinning bolt heads (ugggh) and assembly -I now have an assembled rolling chassis. Man- that frame bent back a little too easy if you know what I mean.

Lower end is next. Advice and encouragement greatly appreciated.

[AdminGuy]

Here's a photo. Tangs of speedo do insert. I would like the speedo to be flush. Stop road grit from entering speedo. I'm going to take it all apart again tonight.

Possible nut cut down?

My sub-frame is factory spec. 10.5" across. Which looks like it may be too tight. As I had to drop one of the spacers also.

[AdminGuy]

Looks like I'm going to have to cut down the second inner nut. The outer one is heat treated. And so pretty I don't want to mess with it.

I did have the sprocket on backwards. Cut out on spines faces hub. Hard to see in diagram. Flipping it made little difference.

Bearing cups are seated.

[AdminGuy]

So now I hear some guys are short? But I'm long - so I did this.

I had my inner nut cut it down about an 1/8". (Friends with lathes reap the beer). This did the trick. My lock washer is back in and everything is fine. Lock nut is almost flush with sprocket lock nut (donut). I now have about a 1/16" between speedo and sprocket lock nut. Which I figure is OK compensation for any flexing. I'll gob a whack 'o' grease on the inside of the speedo to protect it from road grit.

I figure a little space in there is good. Now I'll be able to visually see when my speedo tangs are sheared off, without having to remove axel. "Yup! It's busted. Let's go."

I did notice that my rear wheel is nicely centered to the main frame. But looking over the handle bars - the front is off about +1/4". So I gotta come back on that off-set when I get a chance. Or maybe the rear should go over a bit? My champagne glass spacer is 1 3/4". Is that too wide? Maybe it is. This would make alot of sense. My rear would off-set in line w/ front and I could stick the correct spacer back in on the rear right side. Maybe even give it a little wedge shape, so she fits in real nice like. Putting even pressure on speedo.

If the wheels are both off-set 1/4" to the left and tracking in-line. This will have little effect on the handling of the bike. Correct? I would think so. A head lamp and horn will block my view.

I had better check how the wheels are tracking at this point.

And so.... the Sport Scout saga continues. And yes, I'm having a great time building this thing.