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  • Star Hub Rebuild

    Bought an AM inner retainer in Feb., '00 that was made, at least, too tall. The new standard rollers (measure .250" thick) will fit into the cage, but as as a "bearing assembly", it will not drop into the bottom recess of the left-side hub. The rollers have to be loaded individually into the installed cage, and once there, are impossible to turn with your fingers wedged in there. Then, when you install the bearing retaining washer (covers the exposed ends of the rollers in the cage) the washer covers up the lower snap-ring groove.
    The old rollers are a little pitted on at least one end and measure .248" thick. The new (standard size) rollers measure .250" thick. So, the side of the rollers wore .002" in thirty years. The old rollers racked loose in the old retainer. The old rollers are .525" high. The new rollers measure .573. That's a height difference of .048", and... "they wear on the ends too. That's what their suppose to do. Some people just take the oversize bearings and put them in the old retainers", so said Kick-Start Chuck. I also bought the AM (small) (star cover side) bearing retainer in '00. It has the too-thick-looking base, same thick base as the (bogus) large, inner retainer has, but I haven't tried to fit the small retainer into the star side of the hub yet.
    I have a set of .0004" oversize rollers on hand (an act of God, or "them" knowing what i needed, better than I did, because I had ordered .0002" o.s rollers and they sent me .0004" o.s.) that I put into the old cage and the rollers were a nice slide-fit, and lowered into the left hub as one assembly. The old retainer is pretty thin at the base, so I am waiting on new AM retainers Chuck says his customers rave-on about, which I purchased to compare. He also has n.o.s. OE retainers, but my last name is Perry, not "Rothschild". If his retainer bases are not much thicker than the old ones I have, then I may go with my .004" oversize rollers in my old retainers.
    Question is: How do I measure what the '59 H-D service manual says as "select roller size that will give .001" to .0015" clearance". Where and how is this measurement taken? With rollers installed in the cage and using a plunger dial indicator/w/ stand? Or, with a feeler guage between the roller and inside surface of the hub once the cage and rollers are installed?
    The answer is: You have to measure the bore of the hub with a inside "T" guage and a math formula to calculate a "running fit" and I need to work it out on the phone and fax with Stett.
    Try an rebuild a hub following the H-D manual, but don't follow the diagram on page 2C-3. Not drawn exactly as a true in-line assembly. The washer/retainer that goes on the extreme left end of the hub under the top snap-ring has a stepped side that should be pointed outward and in the place of where they have flat "#15. Retaining Washer." And don't e-ven try to rebuild a hub following the Clymer manual. They call something one thing in print and the same thing something else in a diagram and you have to clothspin several pages together and flip the paper collection back and forth. We'll have it laid out differently in our next book, and the "roller fit formula" illustrated in photos or my name isn't Kirkland.

  • #2
    Star Hub Rebuild

    Frankenstein
    Member posted 09 September 2003 16:02            
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    The old time dealers would have a variety of rollers on hand. They'd fit clean. dry. parts with over size rollers 'till they had a "Plug" fit, I.E., no clearance between parts. Then fit rollers just enough smaller to give the clearance, i.e., .0005 under from the plug fit rollers to get .001 clearance. Empirical, but practial. Most of us don't have all those rollers kicking around. Dick


    amklyde
    unregistered posted 09 September 2003 16:15           
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    Plumber, You need to measure the outside diameter of the inner sleeve races with a micrometer and the inside diameter of the races with a telescoping (or snap guage) and a mic or, if one is available, a dial bore gauge. Be sure and measure various places in the race to find the smallest i.d. and fit your bearings to this size. If you can find some one to accurately hone the holes to round that is preferable, but the drum side requires a 1.750 blind hole mandrel which most machine shops won't have. Up to .001 out of round is tolerable with a wheel hub. Determine bearing size as you thought, by subtracting o.d. of the inner race size + .001 for clearance, from the i.d of the hub race. Divide that number by 2 to get bearing size. Many of the aftermarket bearing cages have the holes for the bearings located incorrectly, bored to the inside or ouside of center. If the holes are inside the bearing assembly will be tight on the inner race, outside tight to the race in the hub.This must be corrected. I use old bearings and a used up inner race. I apply lapping compound to the bearings and sleeve and spin it with the lathe to open the bearing holes up a bit. The bigger the o/s bearings the more the trouble. If your old cages can be cleaned up, use em. As you mentioned, the cages are taller, having a thicker area on the closed end of the cage and this can cause spacing problems.

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    • #3
      The way it played out for me was: Don't waste your time trying to fit o.s. rollers into old retainers. There were so many inner (large) retainers dumped on the market that you need to get the parts from someone you can reach. That would be Chuck-Start. I used his import retainers and standard .250" rollers and everything fit real nice. And get his pliable inner and outer corks for sure. The ones in some of these kits are hard as a rock. You'd think that they were left over from 1941. A hub rebuild is like a Glide fork rebuild. A pure-d Zen experience, as in: (you had a problem, you felt fragmented, you bought some parts made in different parts of the world by different companies, they had to fit perfect, you felt fragmented, you put the parts together, they fit, you felt "lifted", you went full-circle and felt whole again. Zen. End of story.

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      • #4
        Star Hub Needed

        I need a (black) star hub shell to purchase, and complete a project. Also a used chrome, 3" X 16" rim. Thank you

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        • #5
          Just received this wheel from V-Twin. Going to order another. They did a good job replicating the '36-66 hub. Rim is "Perma-Chrome". Spokes are sold under the "V-Twin" label, but their Buchanan®, 5-8 guage, S/S. Nice work. The run-out on the side is 0.0025 in. and the radial run-out is 0.010 in., when 3/32 in. is within OE spec. on both.
          Attached Files

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          • #6
            Here's a closeup of the brake side of the hub. A difference from OE (this end is stamped), but still rebuildable with OE style parts.
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              0.050" side-play

              Here's the measured free-play of 0.050 in. That's the entire brake sleeve that racks side-to side 0.050 in. You won't see the star side of the thrust bearing sleeve move, because the thrust bearing roller sleeve (on the star side of the hub) is a separate piece isolated from the bearing sleeve. The cure, in my opinion, would be to have a 0.050 in. thicker Cork Washer Retainer.
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Too thin of a Cork Retainer

                Here is a view inside the brake sleeve. You can push and pull the brake sleeve in and out 0.050". You couldn't, if the Cork Washer Retainer (a stamped piece with a shoulder that sticks out through the outboard snap ring) was an extra 0.050" thick.
                Attached Files

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                • #9
                  Third Line Must Give the Solution

                  I was told by some authority that when singing the blues, the first two lines should deliver the problem and the third line the solution.."I just ordered a re-pop star hub and it has 0.070" in. free-play"... "I just spent my hard earned money on junk"...(Pick-it Wilson)..."but now I'm gonna stick two stacked (43552-39) Roller Retainer Thrust Washers in there...and get out of this chillin-floor funk".
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                  Re-Pop Central
                  « Thread started on: Today at 3:24pm »
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                  We're (Panhead, that is) going to try and change this http://www.hydra-glide.net/ site to allow riders to upload photos with their posts and make a section for problems encountered building aftermarket Knuckle, Pan, and Four-Five. Kevin Underwood is building a V-Twin Knuckle with parts supplied by Chuck @ Kick-Start. His main tools of necessity have been a die-grinder and stick-welder. He has had to fix the problems as they develop, but he's ex-marine motorpool and he has a shop full of hand and floor tools. Plus, he figures stuff out on his own and doesn't complain to Chuck about the junk he has to re-work. I thought the aftermarket was a hard way to go, if you had to have a Knuckle or Pan, then I talked to Kevin and got even more knocked-down. But, I've recovered from the shock. I was expecting more from the people that make these parts. So far his knuckle frame has had the top motor mount a 1/2" off-position and the seat post clevis tab has to reach out at a 45 degree angle to connect to the pin under the seat, instead of being pointed straight up. He got the wheels on, but to make it roll without scraping, the wheels must be adjusted so that the frame sits at an angle. The center-post on the springer was welded upside down. And the cat-eye dash mount is crooked, so that there is a 1/2" gap between the left tank and the dash cowling.
                  Note: Fix For The 0.070" free-play in the V-Twin star hubs: I have found that if I remove the (drum side) snap ring and Cork Washer Retainer, that I can place two Roller Retainer Thrust Washers (43552-39) [stacked on top of each other], on top of the big cork and then replace the Cork Washer Retainer on top, then install the snap ring. Each Bearing Thrust Washer is 0.035" thick, so that is the 0.070" we need to remove the "free-play" and it seems to work, however I'm waiting on the thrust washers from Chuck so I don't have to remove one from inside an extra star hub I have.

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