wiring problems

[exeric]

I am in the final stages of building my '48FL and now have a short circuit somewhere. I am using the standard aftermarket wiring harness, and all H-D electrical components. Everything is fine until I switch to the 2nd c.w. position on the main switch (lights/ingnition). I've been sytematically taking all wires off each terminal in the switch panel, and on the switch, and just now going to the junction panel behind the coil to do the same thing. So far it shorts out every time it's in that 2nd position. Is this the right tactic, or can someone suggest a better method? I've tried two main switches and they both do the same thing. My last resort is to strip the harness off and start all over again.

[Perry Ruiter]

I once helped a buddy diagnose a similar problem and it turned out to be the switch (I know you said you tried a different switch). The problem was the centre pin would briefly touch the dash base as it transitioned between positions. The centre pin holds the brass cross connection bar and is spring loaded. As you switch between positions cross bar has to "climb over" the terminal rivets pulling the pin toward the base. On old switches sometimes these terminal plates are warped and the bar has to climb higher to get over. I would disconnect all wires at the switch except feed from the battery. If it still blows the fuse when you switch to lights then it's in the switch. Try slipping a piece of gasket paper under the switch and try again. No short suspect the centre pin. I've even seen dash bases with a hole drilled at this point ... Perry

[c.o.]

Eric, ain't wiring fun? As usual though it looks like Perry made it easier.

[exeric]

I concentrated my efforts on the switch and you were right Perry. The contact plate was warped or bowed enough to cause a short. I went through my switch grave yard and found a good contact plate. Works like a charm. Thanks a million Perry.

[hd44knuck]

you go to love a happy ending......thanks for the helpful advice

[Lonnie]

That might explain the short I had on my '42FL. Switched it off and it shorted out (no fuse). Never did find out for sure what happened but the contact plate was warped. Replaced "Cable A" that fried and rebuilt the switch and so far so good. Rode 220 miles Sunday no problem. And it now has a fuse.

[duffeycycles]

I have seen many shorted switches and always install 30 amp breaker on frame gound post to battery-kick start bikes only

[Lonnie]

I have seen many shorted switches and always install 30 amp breaker on frame gound post to battery-kick start bikes only

I used to do the same thing, but haven't done so to these restored bikes. But I sure did on this one, replacing the cable A from the under seat connection to the switch and adding an inline fuse to the positive wire from the battery to the underseat connection stud. I'll get around to it on the others soon.

[Perry Ruiter]

In the mid 70s Harley added a Delrin insulating washer to the switch internals. I always include it when rebuilding a switch ... Perry

[BONES47FL]

Lonnie, any way you could post a photo or two of how you have this set up? Thanks, Bones