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  • Chrome removal

    I chose this catagory because removing chrome must involve tools. I have been trying to strip the chrome off a pair of fork rockers and I'm getting poor results. I found a forum on the internet that discussed using chemical stripping with muratic acid to get the chrome off and sulfuric acid to get the nickel off. You set up a bath and use a power source, just like plating. The bath should be 2 parts water to 1 part acid. They suggested using lead as the annode. This worked great for the chrome which came right off. The nickel is another story. I have had the part in the sulfuric bath for hours using a trickle charger for the power source. I have seen virtually no removal of the nickel. My second assault on the nickel has been with a sandblaster but I just don't have enough compressor for the job. My final method has been to use die grinders, belt sanders, files, and sandpaper and that has worked but it's miserable and gets into the rocker itself. I'd love to hear about a better way.
    Eric Smith
    AMCA #886

  • #2
    eric,

    Do you have a link to that forum, I've got a bunch of stuff on my Pan that has been chromed over the years, and I've heard it is probably easier & less expensive to just replace the parts rather than take them somewhere to get de-chromed. I'd like to try your method first though, and would love to hear other input as far as removing chrome. I would also like to hear ways to prep a chromed part for paint, I've heard it's possible to do that also...

    Mike

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    • #3
      Mike, I just typed "Chrome stripping" in the MSN search engine. I got hits from a Caswell forum and a few other places. I printed it out but don't have the information with me. I know what you're talking about with the pile of old chrome plated parts. If it's stuff you want to Parkerize then you have the problems I have. If it's something you want to paint, just give it a light glass beading or wet sanding with wet/dry sandpaper. I've been using an epoxy primer on bare metal and chrome and that has been working well for me. Let us know if you find some good information on de-chroming.
      Eric Smith
      AMCA #886

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      • #4
        stripping of chrome plating

        we send plated parts to browns plating if we need the plating stripped, they will come back as bare metal ready for paint or cad plating. we are a dealer for them and have done this time and time again.

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        • #5
          Could you give me an example of how much they charge for this? Does Brown's in Kentucky
          do this too?
          Mike

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          • #6
            I'd like to know too. The platers in my area flat refuse to do chrome removal and I'm fed up with trying to get it off with the methods I've been using.
            Eric Smith
            AMCA #886

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            • #7
              While were on this topic, how about chrome removal on aluminum? I've got a pair of 'Glide sliders and front backing plate I'd like to rescue.
              Doug.
              Doug McLaughlin #6607
              NorCal, USA

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              • #8
                I'm also facing the same thing, chrome over aluminum, chrome over parts that were orginally parkerized, chrome over parts that were painted... Oh well, we all know some people had a lot of fun with these bikes in the 70's, now we're paying the price when it comes time to restore them. Any additional info would be appreciated.

                Mike

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by exeric View Post
                  The nickel is another story. I have had the part in the sulfuric bath for hours using a trickle charger for the power source.
                  the last time I had nickel removed the guy said he needed more amps than he had so I gave him a old 200 amp battery charger/starter. he cranked it up to about 50 amps then it came off. wish he was still around
                  3899

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                  • #10
                    Chromed Aluminum

                    This thread just kind of petered out..... I was hoping someone might have some good ideas for removing chrome from aluminum parts, such as 'Glide lower legs etc. Any comments?Doug.
                    Doug McLaughlin #6607
                    NorCal, USA

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                    • #11
                      I agree Doug, we need more imput on this thread because this has to be a factor for many of us. Mmoore's post got me thinking, and believe me this might be dangerous. If it's a matter of more amps what about using a buzz box welder as the power source ?
                      Eric Smith
                      AMCA #886

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                      • #12
                        Classic Chrome on 49th St. in Clearwater has never had a problem removing chrome for us.
                        http://laughingindian.com/
                        http://flatheadownersgroup.com/
                        A.M.C.A. Member Since 1986

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                        • #13
                          My bobber project came a to screaching halt. The Ole Lady wanted chrome everywhere so I am doing just that. I shelled out close to 6 bills for a strip and chrome job on 2 16" rims for the bobber. I laced and trued the wheels to the rims, mounted them to the bike, and finally got to a rolling chassi statis. The bike has not seen any adverse temperatures, never been out of the house. It has collected some dust though. The other day, I decided to wipe that dust off of her. Using a sof cloth, I began with the rims. I started with the rear. Needless to say, My expensive strip and chrome job began peeling off like tape. I am really upset about this !! I have not notified the company who performed the work yet. I want to get another bid for the work first. As I said, the rims were to be stripped first. They were not. The evidence to prove this ??? The old chrome and rust is still there, underneath the overlay of new chrome ! Paps

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                          • #14
                            was wondering if anyone ever tried a DC welder as a power supply for this type of thing? Been thinkin about this for a while now, and it would seem perfect for the job. You could dial in the amps you need to do the job , and nothing more. Seems to me one would have great control over the process. So what am I missing? I can't be the first guy to think of this.
                            Brian
                            Brian Howard AMCA#5866

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                            • #15
                              My local plater told me he uses a proprietary caustic solution that removes the nickle without electricity. It sure sounds like one of the MetalX products.
                              http://www.finishing.com/stripper/index.shtml
                              Also sold in small quantities by Caswell.

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