Removing 45 Transmission Shifter cam shaft

[markrob]

Just found this forum, and this will probably be the first of many cries for help. I'm slowly working my way through a restore of a WLA, and am currently trying to check out the transmission (got the bike running briefly last summer, but one of many problems was first gear didn't seem to want to engage). I'm at the point in the tech manual where it calls for removing the transmission shifter cam shaft "with the pry method", and then quickly talks about it being really tight, and if you screw it up drill a hole in the case and drift out the shaft. Well, it's really tight, and I'm not keen on screwing it up and drilling a hole in the case, unless that is truly the best option and doesn't cause issues later.

Any tips on the preferred method to remove the shaft?

Thanks,

Mark

[indianut]

spray it with PB Blaster. Grab the tip with vise-grips and twist and pull. You shoulg pull it out without hurting anything.

[markrob]

Originally posted by indianut
spray it with PB Blaster. Grab the tip with vise-grips and twist and pull. You shoulg pull it out without hurting anything.

Indianut - thanks for the suggestion. I'll look for PB Blaster, I'm assuming it is something similar to Liquid Wrench? I initially tried vise grips before appending, and without something to break it loose they were tearing up the tip.

[Paps]

There should already be a small diameter knock out hole on the opposite end in your tranny case. All my tranny cases have them. PB Blaster works wonders if you follow the directions. Soak the drum good too. You can find the stuff at all auto parts stores and many hardware stores as well. Shifter cam shafts are realitively inexpensive to replace if you booger yours up on the end. NOS OEM run around $10. Paps

[indianut]

Never knew that! I thought it was only the shifter fork shaft that had a drift hole!

[Tommo]

Have you removed the grub screw that locates the shaft and is found in the machined surface under the top cover plate.
And indianut I've never seen a hole for drifting out the drum shaft either but I have on one occassion drilled one to get a very stubborn one out.
I've now made a tool to pull these shafts out by slotting the head of a long bolt so it slides over the groove in the end of the shaft then with a spacer and washer over the bolt and a nut on the threaded end of the bolt, all that is required, is to do up the nut to extract the shaft.
Hope this helps, Tommo

[markrob]

Originally posted by Tommo
Have you removed the grub screw that locates the shaft and is found in the machined surface under the top cover plate.
And indianut I've never seen a hole for drifting out the drum shaft either but I have on one occassion drilled one to get a very stubborn one out.
I've now made a tool to pull these shafts out by slotting the head of a long bolt so it slides over the groove in the end of the shaft then with a spacer and washer over the bolt and a nut on the threaded end of the bolt, all that is required, is to do up the nut to extract the shaft.
Hope this helps, Tommo

Tommo - thanks for the input. I've pulled the grub screw. I'm trying to picture the tool you've made, I'm going to try and recreate except I'm not too sure of slotting the head correctly.

You guys are all top notch on here. Wish I'd found this forum a dozen problems ago...

[Tommo]

Basically take a bolt and drill a hole large enough to enable you to get it over the shaft once you have welded a washer over that hole. Now find a good sturdy washer that has an internal hole dia that is the same size as the groove dia and carefully cut a segment out of it so as it will slide over the groove. Now take the bolt and grind a slot from the edge of the bolt into the hole you have drilled in the head of the bolt. This slot has to be deep enough to enable the short piece of the shaft that protrudes past the groove to pass. Now weld the washer onto the bolt head with the slot in the bolt head in line with the slot in the washer.
Slide the finished bolt/puller onto the shaft groove and the rest is self explanatory.
I have access to a very good machine shop and made mine there but you can make one as described which will work just as good as my fancy one.
All this is probably as clear as mud but if you need any further help just ask and I will see if I can explain myself better.
Tommo

[indianut]

GENIUS!!!!!

[Paps]

OOPSSSSSS!!!!!!!!! Don't know what I was thinking when I said shifter cam shaft?? It is the shifter fork shaft with the drift hole. Duh !! Sorry !! The shafts are cheap though. Paps

[markrob]

Tommo,

Thanks for the followup. I'm welding-challenged, but even before reading your followup I almost dragged out the stick welder I've got to give it a try. Instead I managed to combine a couple of the other tips with yours, and got the shaft out a few minutes ago. I got a large headed bolt, and cut a lipped slot through the bolt head. Took a while, but it was worth it. Sprayed the shaft down with PB blaster, and used the makeshift puller. The cam shaft came out nicely.

Thanks for all the help on this, everybody. On to the next step...

Anybody got any tips for a guy that's:
pretty good with a wrench,
has a pretty good toolbox,
has a reasonably good home shop,
good military experience as a ground support equipment mech,
but not a lot of experience with the detailed innards of the tranny and bottom end of the engine?

I'm slowly working on a complete rebuild. I'm hoping and willing to learn as much as I can, and I'm in no hurry, but I don't want to mess any steps up that I have no hope of doing a good job on. Thoughts on what I can handle and what I need to send out?

Thanks,

Mark

[Tommo]

I should have also said that if the shaft is that tight that I have to use the puller I take the inner gearbox cover off first to give myself a bit of room. It is not impossible to do it with the inner cover on it just means you have to grind a flat on the spacing sleeve.
Tommo

[Paps]

As you dissasemble the tranny, lay all the parts out in their respective order. Using your parts and service manuals, tag all the parts with their part number and name. When dissassembly is completed, begin the cleanup work on all the components, After this is accomplished, inspect each part and record your findings. Make a list of ones you find in need of replacement. Purchase a full set of spacers, shims, and rollers. This is my preferance because I hate to wait on the correct fits when I am cruising along on a rebuild. It is nice to have what fits on hand. Any good service manual will walk you through the rebuilding process. Be careful when you get to the shifter fork endplay and clearance to the shifter clutches section of the manuals. Many service manuals have the specs reversed.The rest of the steps are correct though. I enjoy doing 45 trannies. Fitments of endplays can tax your patience on them because you will assemble and disassemble several sections of the tranny often before your fits will hit tolerances. You already have the mental tooling to do the task and it sounds like you will breeze pretty much through it. You will need to purchase or make a few special tools along the way such as a tripper bolt nut extractor. Some work will need reamed. Access to a lathe would be good also. A good set of machinist tools are very helpful for parts inspection also. Final results will be worth the effort. Have fun....Paps

[Paps]

When you get to the clutch gear fitting process of the rebuild, do not install the clutch gear pushrod seal parts ! Endplay readings will be deceaving and incorrect if you do. You will need seal tools for this task. The manuals will show you those needed. You can still get these tools in NOS OEM for under $100 for both. Without them, you will destroy the new clutch gear oil seal when installing the clutch gear. Paps