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1965 spokes, nipples, one more time
OK, I am at a standstill. I got good feedback from one member regarding the spokes on a 1965 'Glide. Honestly, I still need more info to be sure. V-twin offers cad spoke, but they are "Back Ordered", so......... And they don't have cad nipples. I am not doing this bike for judging, I just want to get it as close to being right as I can. I have original nos hubs, and a good set of rims to get re-chromed. Does anyone know a good place to get them re-chromed? The local place I use does not do rims anymore. And what about getting SS spokes cad plated? And the nipples?
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On the spoke issue I will only use stainless. You can bead blast them a little and they look almost like the cad if you want. After a few years cad shows age and it's just not worth all the work to do over, especially if you want to drive it and not show. Good stainless is for ever. Just my opinion. -
You would probably be happier with the stainless spokes in the long run. The cad spokes and nipples do lose their appearence over the course of a few years. You may be able to have a friendly dealer do a part number search for NOS spokes for you. Be advised the 40a spokes and nipples have Metric thread and don't interchange with the -40s.
VPH-DComment
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spoke speakin'
Ok, thanks for the responses so far. I think I mis-stated what I want to do though. I have a set of wheels on the bike now, to ride. I just re did these with stainless spokes.The set I amworking onnow I am trying to do original. I definitely like the SS stuff. I will have a lot of money tied up in these wheels, so I don't want to do anything that will subtract from their value. I am using V-twin internals for the hubs. I haven't found any originalsYoucan'tthem anyway. I am just supposing they are a good product, and not junk. I keep hearing horror stories about some of this mass produced repop stuff. The star hub covers are chrome. I don't suppose that is right. Is it? That is the only part you can see. I am going to have the hubs completely stripped, and paint them myself. Unless my plater can guarantee me that the powder will not puddle, or crack when the wheel is spoked. Oh, for the good old Italian bikes. No problem there! I am going to wait on the spokes, and nipples. Still looking for more help there.Comment
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Portagepan....[ Columbiana borders Portage ] I am only a county away from you. Small world hey !! If you want nos spokes/nipples, give bill a call at Bill's Cycle Barn over in eastern Pennsylvania. Type the name in on your search engine for contact info. Chances are he will have them. PapsComment
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65 pan
got a unrestored 65 if ya need any picsComment
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The 'star' cover itself was a very light gray parkerizing.
I am not aware of any repops with the proper zirque hole, but I haven't looked lately.
...CottenComment
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if you just beadblast them they WILL rust in no time flat !! I learn this a long time ago! If you go the beadblast route just go to your local HD Dealer and get their silver gray paint in a spary can, apply with a rag a few times,looks just like cadplating and will fool even the best of the judges! When I worked for a dealer we restored a few this way for the owner and NOONE knew the differance and it has lasted a long time,we caled it cadium in a can! GoodLuck!Comment
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The "cad in a can" comment isn't far off the truth. We used to sell many 6-can cases of H-D high temp aluminum for this purpose. I have found the auto parts store or Grainger variety works just as well.
VPH-DComment
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Thanks!
I might wait and see if I can get original star covers. Regarding the picture discs form A. C., mine were real dark, and b/w. Basically useless. I took a bunch of pictures of mine when I was disassembling it, so that should help. If I need any others, I will let you know. I don't know why blasting SS spokes would make them rust. I like that idea because I could do the nipples the same way, on a string or small rod. Paps, I'm in the village of Portage, not Portage County. I am still looking for someplace to get the chrome done on the rims. I am in N. W. Ohio, and it seems kind of slim up here for members. I really need to meet more. I have always been a rider, and not a collector. I am still that way, but I just decided this one bike is going to be as close to original as I can do. I also have a '69 Norton 750 that needs carb work. Anybody? I have used cad paint from Eastwood with good results. I am told HD sells a heat proof cad type paint that was used originally on the 65 heads or barrels. I had the part # in an email, and somehow lost it. I still like paper!Comment
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portage must of misread you! I thought you were referring to the blasting of the CAD spokesComment
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spokes
OK, Inline. I thought maybe that is what you meant. Anyone have any experience with Kyron Plating in Cleveland, Oh. or Custom Chrome Plating in Grafton, OH? One thing about getting the hubs powdercoated: There are different grades and hardness rating for powdercoat. If it is too hard, it will crack and chip when you spoke the rim to the hub. Powdercoat has its limits, and drawbacks, like anything else.Comment
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IIRC, heat resistant silver was used on the barrels. The heat resistant aluminum became available about 77-78, and was for the Lowrider model which had aluminum painted primary covers and other parts. There is a very noticeable difference in color between aluminum and silver.
VPH-DComment
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When I had my Indian 18" rims and hubs powder coated I called Buchanan's and was told to let these sit for 6 months to cure or they would chip when laced up. Six months+ later I took them in, got them back laced up with stainless and not one chip. The bike has not been on the road but so far so good.Comment
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I want to thnk everyone for the their responses on the spokes and hub questions I put out there. I am stripping the hubs now, and i might just paint them or check into the soft powder coat for them. I am getting Buchanan SS spokes and SS niples. I might "antique" them.Comment
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